Resurrecting my '92

[enbruchman]

Hello, I think I posted this in the right place...

Its time to post up some progress on my 1992 FJ1200.  I introduced my self here...
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=17720.msg178873#msg178873

The guys gave me some really good advice, for example electrolysis to clean the tank, take the carbs off and send them to the RPM boys, check your brake lines, get new tires (its original), think about removing the airbox, fork seals will have to be redone, remove mice infestation, etc, etc.

So far I have removed the tank and it was a mess but....I think it is on the path to redemption.  The electrolysis worked better than I could have imagined, however the level float was toast, so I found a suitable replacement on Ebay (RPM didn't have it) that will require some wiring to properly fit it. 
This first post is just an intro to the thread, I have to figure out how to easily post a bunch of pics so you all can see how well (or not) I'm doing.  This is the first real mechanical work I have done on a motorcycle, but...I have an old Range Rover that I have honed my "keep it running skills" to the point where I feel pretty confident that this may not be too hard of an overall task. 

So the next few posts will be some pics that describe the path  I am taking with advice from the crew on this fix up.

So..1st Pic, I bought a "stand" from harbor Freight - $89 Less 20%, I'm not sure I have the stand in the right place, but I have a strap so at least it wont tip over and I can move it into the corner so my wife can get the car in the garage.  Note the nest in  the airbox..

[enbruchman]

Close up of the nest...

[enbruchman]

Lovely....




Carbs sent to RPM...not sure how bad they are but they look bad..the top carb is #1 I think.  The bike has been sitting on the kickstand leaning to the left so maybe thats where the gunk collected.

[enbruchman]

On to tank...looks pretty bad to me, a bunch of crusty stuff in there...



My tank level sensor...

[enbruchman]

Getting ready for the electrolysis




In process, I know...no duct tape on the tank..

[enbruchman]

I used an old beat up Allen Wrench as my anode.  I left it in there for about 3 days..inspecting it and cleaning the oxidation off so it would conduct better in my home made sodium carbonate.  I had sodium bicarbonate in my wifes pantry, so I took half a box of it and heated it in a pan until it reached 200D Celsius, where it began to change it into sodium carbonate which I understand creates a solution that conducts better.



So after 3 days of this, I broke out my pressure washer and sprayed out the inside of the tank.  Then grabbed my wife's hair dryer and heated it up and dried out the inside so it would not immediately rust again.  Finally this is what the tank looked like on the inside..

[enbruchman]

ok..so you guys saw my tank level float in the previous post and it is all busted up.  So I was browsing the Ebay and saw this that I made an offer for something less than what they were asking I think it was $26.00.  I have no clue if it will work but it looked the same, had the same bendy parts and to the best I can tell has the same resistance.  Can you tell me if this will work?  It seems as though these floats are hard to come by...any info out there?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1984-YAMAHA-FJ-1100-FUEL-SENDING-UNIT-GAS-TANK-2-PETROL-SENSOR-GAUGE-FJ1100-84/261526160417?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2648

Here's the wiring from my old one.  I will have to modify the FJ1100 Ebay float to get it wired up..at least I got a better gasket..which RPM does have if I need it.

[enbruchman]

Here's a pic of the Speedo, I said in an earlier post that it had 4700 miles.....4065.  and I paid 7200 including tax, if anyone wants pics from the sales brochure or accessory brochure I can scan it and post it...lemme know
Also anybody know where I can get a new choke knob, it fell off on a ride to split rock lighthouse north of Duluth, MN..so I used a keychain to be able to activate the choke..also any comments on how to refinish the peeling paint from the front brake cylinder reservoir?



This really bothers me..it was on its side one day when I came home from work..I think thats when I decided its time to fix it up and ride it or sell it someone else can enjoy it..I know Randy has a new cover..I will buy one after I get it running.

[Pat Conlon]

Hi Erik, nice work on the tank. Unless you seal it you will get flash rust. Especially true if your local fuel has any   ethanol in it. POR-15 has been used by a few of us and the concensus is that we find it superior to the Kreem coating.

That side cover is not that bad. Get some paint stripper and remove the clear coat, then progressive wet sand starting with 600, then 1000, then 1500 then 2000 grit wet paper. Water is your friend. Put some music on, I find that if you sing to the aluminum while you're sanding, it makes the material happy. 2 buffs with Simichrome for the luster. then a wash with lacquer thinner and a tooth brush on the recessed letters, then a spray with some black paint to restore the letters. While the paint is wet take a clean rag with lacquer thinner on it and wipe off the overspray on the polished aluminum. No need to mask the letters, the overspray wipes right off.

Do this and you just saved $75. Spend it on the POR-15, it's good stuff.

On the tank float, I think you'll be ok on the electric side, but I'm sure you will need to bend the float rod to calibrate it with your gas gauge. The way I do mine is to fill my tank up with exactly 1/2 the capacity then hook up the fuel gauge wires and see if the gauge needle reads 1/2 tank. (No such luck) I have to drain the tank, take the float out and bend the rod up or down as needed to get the gauge needle where it should be.
It may take you several tries to get it, so be patient.

Inspect closely for any chewed wires from your house guests. Take the fairing off.

I love this shit. Seeing a beautiful low mileage FJ restored to life by her original owner.  Kudos!    Pat

[ribbert]

A variation on Pat's engine cover tutorial if you want a look nearer to the original satin finish is to not go too fine with W&D, get a uniform look you're happy with, don't polish, then clear lacquer it. The cover below was worse than yours.





This clutch cover, done the same way, has done over a 100k with a single coat of clear and no deterioration or yellowing. It's not even high temp clear (because it has to be cured), just a non ferrous metal lacquer. The clear gives the black lettering new life too.
d


Each to their own, but I'm not looking for extra stuff to keep polished and I like the satin finish.

I'd stay away from the paint stripper though, it will ruin the black lettering, which is perfect, and the wet rubbing will remove the old clear coat in a flash anyway.

As for the brake master cylinder, just scrub it well to get rid any loose paint or corrosion and spray it with whatever you want. I use "Bumper Coat" because it's a polyurethane paint that doesn't seem to be affected by the fluid and I like the gloss level. No priming needed, just make sure its clean.

That's a great bike you've got there Erik, low mileage, 100% complete and original, unmolested by previous owners and just in need of (mostly) a cosmetic rejuvenation.

One more thing, after seeing your pictures of the tank clean, I'd be taking a lot more of care of the paintwork, it's about the only thing you can't replace.

Noel

[ribbert]

...I have an old Range Rover that I have honed my "keep it running skills"

That alone elevates you to "Expert" status.

You will find the concept of only having to fix things the once on the FJ and going for more than a week without a breakdown a novelty after your Range Rover experience.

Noel (V8 Discovery owner)

[enbruchman]

Thanks Pat, Thanks Ribbert

The advice on the cover is very useful.  I am happy to save the 70 bucks on a cover but I'm sure I'll be spending it on a fuel petcock and other things.

Take a look at the clutch cover, it needs help too.  I can see where the rear brake has been rubbing on the side of the cover.  I may have to move that out a 1 or 2 mm so it doesn't rub.


Also, my engine needs some work as well.  The cover, for now, is not high on the priority list. 


Today I washed out the airbox and the engine/carb heat shield.  After it dries I will apply a coating of Wipe new..see link below.  It really works well on all the black on my '97 Range Rover, so I figure it can make the black on the bike look pretty good too.
https://www.wipenew.com/product/wipe-new-orginal/

[enbruchman]

Also, forgot on my last post...don't make fun of me but I had to order these 2 screwdrivers.  Is there really such a thing as JIS type screwdrivers?  Yes there is.  At first I thought it was an Ichiban Moto thing..see below
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9eTF6tnYYdc

I tried it on my carb bowl, when I i applied the torque there was a satisfying "click" and the JIS screw broke loose without rounding it out or camming out of the phillips screwhead.  Maybe its all in my head..dunno but it seemed to work better than a regular phillips

[Pat Conlon]

I have doubts that the Wipenew product will stand up to the engine heat.
Yea, that clutch side cover is very doable. The scuffs don't look to me to be from your brake pedal but from your boot.
What's wrong with your petcock? The fuel pump petcocks are damn near indestructible.

Good move on the JIS screw drivers. They are a great help, although this is even better on those melt like butter carb screws: http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=carbkit

[edit] yea, the 1984 FJ1100 sending unit will be fine in your '92. Same part # for all years.
https://www.partzilla.com/product/yamaha/36Y-85752-03-00?ref=c3880f56c638c0daf38cdd6630ce40b24a92cc56

[enbruchman]

OK an update to where I am with my little project.  Things are taking a bit of time as me & my wife took a little trip to New Orleans.  We stayed in the French Quarter at a "boutique" hotel which actually was pretty nice.  We had great time with the music, food, sightseeing, and my favorite..the WWII museum.  Back to the topic at hand.

RPM has my carbs and the communication has been very good.  These guys know their stuff.  It turns out one of my carb bodies was unusable and provided a good used carb body to replace it.  They spent several hours getting the set cleaned up, I'm not sure if they made any money on my order, but they took very good care of me.  The advice to send the carbs to RPM was good and I'm glad I listened  I am expecting them back shortly and will provide an update when I get I receive the goods.

RPM will be sending a petcock where the screen was missing and the valve in the shutoff was inoperable due to all the crud caked in it, so I thought I would order a new one with filter.  I also need to look at redoing the clearcoat on my clutch cover as that is messed up as well. 

Next topic..Tires..I know, its been done and I have searched..a lot..on the topic.  My requirements are not that demanding, I'm an old guy who doesn't want to find a lightpole the wrong way.  I have been looking for a relatively inexpensive set of tires that has some grip and may last a couple of years with light riding. 

The thread http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=15711.0 details the Avon Storm 3D X-M Radials and recommends them.  Seems like a tough tire to find in stock, so I have been looking at these...at Revzilla $191 shipped.  I have to ask because I have never bought a set of tires and need some experienced guidance please

Fork seals are next after carbs & tires...