Starter issues

[Urban_Legend]

Hi all. As you may know I have swapped my 1100 motor over to a 3cv 1200 motor in my 84 FJ.
Firstly let me tell you I love this motor. It runs sweet. My issue is getting it running.
My starter motor is not engaging properly. I have even swapped the starter over for another with the same result.
When I press the go button it will engage then "throw out" and just wizzes away without turning to motor over.
I hope thus all makes sense. Help

Mark

[hillsy]

Sounds like your starter clutch is not engaging. I read somewhere on here about how changing oil viscosity can help with this - maybe do a search on that? Otherwise you need to split the cases to get to the starter clutch, I believe.

[Urban_Legend]

Thanks Hillsy. That could very well be the issue. I put some cheap "run in" oil in the bike when I first out it started (last weekend) as the .motor had been sitting for an unspecified amount of time. I was planned on dropping this oil out this weekend and putting in some quality Penrite bike specific oil. Hope this may fix it.

Mark

[oldktmdude]

   Mark, it's got nothing with the quality of oil, it's the viscosity that causes the problem. I have a similar issue so I use lighter grade oil during winter and swap to a thicker oil during summer. If you are already using a light weight oil, you have a serious problem with your starter clutch. Hope this is not the case!
   Regards, Pete.

[FJmonkey]

Yes, that sounds like the starter clutch. My 86' did not seem to care what oil I used or what temperature it is. My 89' starter clutch is more oil/temp sensitive. Considering the frigid temps we get here in SoCal, its a wonder I am not using WD-40 instead. Now where did I put the Margarita mix...

[Urban_Legend]

I am going to hope it is just the Gulf western oil, as it seem to have been progressively worse over the week. Maybe it has some friction modifiers I didn't know about.

[Urban_Legend]

OK. Word to the wise. Don't use this Gulf Western Oil. No good for clutches. Changed over to the Penrite 15/50 mineral bike specific oil. After 4 started all fixed. Thank you to all who helped.

[Pat Conlon]

I'll be damned....

[balky1]

Judging by the API classification it seems like a car oil?

[Urban_Legend]

Hey all. It seems that I do indeed have start clutch issues. After originally thinking it was wrong oil, but after trying 3 different oils and 2 starter motors it is still a bugger to start cold. Once I do start it and it is warmed up, it starts fine.
Is splitting the cases the only way to fix/replace the starter clutch?

Mark

[racerrad8]

Mark,

This topic has been discussed many times over the years. If you have to service/replace the the starter clutch the bottom case must be removed.

The starter clutch was a weak design from day one. It has already be mentioned the oil viscosity plays a significant role in the slippage of the starter clutch.

The FJ clutch uses three springs and rollers. If the springs are clogged up or the roller surface is dirty, the starter clutch will do what you are describing.

I know that is a new to you engine, so the internal condition is unknown.

If it was mine, I would change the oil again. I would use a lighter viscosity, like a 5w-30 mineral oil; no synthetics. I would also put one quart/liter of automatic transmission fluid in replacing one liter of motor oil. The ATF is very high in detergent and will clean the internal components of the engine including the starter clutch.

I would run that oil for at least 500 miles but most likely 1000 miles before changing it. When I change it I would look and the condition of the oil coming out. If clean then the starter clutch will have to be serviced.

If the oil comes out dirty, then I might run it again with another quart of ATF for another 1000 miles.

If the problem does not subside then the starter clutch will need to be rebuilt or replaced. If you get to that point, your best bet is to replace it with the upgraded XJR1300 spray design.

Randy - RPM

[Urban_Legend]

Hi Randy/Robert

Thanks for the info

I am willing to try all non invasive solutions at this stage. Current oil is 10-40w synthetic with 750ml of oil stabilizer added (Moreys oil stabilizer) I will try this over the week, then will be tryin your 5-30w with ATF added solution. I have started pricing stater clutch replacement kits. This is not something that I saw on the RPM site. Do you sell them. If so could you PM me the details for everything that I will need. (starter kit, gaskets etc) please.

Mark

[racerrad8]

For the time being you need to dump the synthetic oils. You need to clean the inside, not make it more slippery with synthetic oil.

Robert will work on the parts list this week.

Randy - RPM

[Urban_Legend]

Thanks Randy

I have sent an email from the RPM site.
I had a look around town today. The lightest mineral oil I can find at the moment it 10/30w. I will keep looking. Might even try EBay.

Mark

[racerrad8]

That 10w-30 will work fine.

Randy - RPM