How many times do I rebuild this bike?

[Troyskie]

G'day all,

Spend a solid couple of hours playing with the plastex repair on lots of tabs.

My fist lesson was patience! As the old saying goes, prior preparation prevents piss poor performance  .
After agonising about how to line up and hold together the pieces, as these were small, the clear sticky tape method was easiest.

Learning a bit of precision with the cable drill (I only have a cheep Aldi dremmel copy) was the hardest part. The wedge join is by far the best. The safest way to do it was to make a vee about half way through on one side, fill etc, then when set flip it over and do the vee on the other side. This was by far the strongest bond.

Following the instructions was the easiest method  ....

I did use the drill stop method of halting cracks. On one once drilled the two sides snapped into proper alignment!

As promised, here are a few piccies.

[Troyskie]

Some major parts repair progress.

The main fairing and instrument surround are all I've done. They are both in fairly rough form still, as I wanted to fit them before doing any detail to finish them (I'm sure you'd all do a waaaaaay neater job than me...).

As I had to repair all bar 4 of the tabs (yep! Off both parts), I've semi fitted parts together to hold them at the correct fitting angle while curing. I was terrified about this as these things seem to be the weak link in fairings. I've assumed till now (based on my previous attempts) that any mount or tab repair would be weaker than the original. WRONG. I've had a few plastic moulds made over the years and know that a tight rad and min draught create a fracture point in plastics. What I see from Yamaha is super well made, particularly for the time and technology they had, but with those two fundamental errors in the mould design. I've even gone to the extent of reinforcing many joint lines (unfortunately this increases the already massive amount of paint prep).

As I've remade or reattached tabs I've allowed a wide enough gap to allow for a larger radius join which is a stronger connection. This is why plastic welding people go on about grinding in a vee to butt both parts. The wedge or double vee is best (yep already said that earlier ).

I've essentially cut the good half off one fairing and welded it on the other. This has taught me not to chuck any fairing plastic for my FJs. It was surprising what could be repaired or remade from off cuts. It was also pleasing how neat the good side looked, despite my shitty cutting and grinding skills on the working side  .

There is still, by far, the majority of the cosmetic repair to be done, however this is a satisfying step.

I'm keen to learn from Steve's project how to go about finishing mine.

Here's a pic of the main fairing sitting in position. Scoops fit, fairing mounting holes line up perfectly with the sub frame (I knew is should have bought a lotto ticket!!).

Troyskie

[aviationfred]

Looks to me that the Bandaids have done a very nice job on getting Yummy healed up. 

I am hoping that working on Yummy has been therapeutic and speeding up your healing. 


Fred

[Steve_in_Florida]

Troy,
Your work looks great! Your bike is coming along nicely.

I like learning about all of this stuff, often by trial-and-error.

My plastic repairs are now ongoing batch processes. I'll prepare a bunch of parts, with the appropriate molds, then fix all of that particular tab.

I got a little sidetracked by fixing a busted-up fairing, but it's coming together. I'm now preparing to replicate the various fairing tabs on both the `90 and the `92. The areas that take a beating on tip-overs and general fatigue.

Thanks for sharing your work.

Steve

[Troyskie]

Thanks Fred, it genuinely is therapy. I'm back at work doing light stuff. The doctor's not cleared me yet, but bugger him!!

Fortunately for me some bar stools SWMBO decided needed replacing found their way to the shed. The seat is vaguely like a saddle and really comfortable (it would seem that 'nice' and comfortable don't always go together ). This has made working on the plastics a lot easier!

Steve, it's funny you say trial and error. I had a concerted go at the different ways & ended up just doing RTFM .
Mate, I'm not a particularly patient person when doing projects. I often find myself accepting half arsed solutions so I can hit my goal (basically ride the bike  ). These plastic repairs take time. You mentioned batch repair and I think I might be accidentally following your method.

So far, once I stop mucking around with what I need to do, the actual repair is fairly fast. And in a batch style for each side, or section.

With so many broken tabs it took a while to decide on the sequence of repair as I wanted to semi mount each repaired tab so the alignment was right. Only having 4 good tabs made deciding where to start more awkward than I expected. That blew a heap of time  .

Also, now I've busted my fairing repair cherry I've an 1100 fairing that might be able to be resurrected.....

[Urban_Legend]

When you get really good at it, can I send my spare 1100 fairing down to you. Be warned thought the pervious owner of it was going for a light weight version and cut a lot of plastic off it. Like the air vents down each side of the tank.

I am thinking fibre glass might be the go with it though.

Mark

[red]

When you get really good at it, can I send my spare 1100 fairing down to you. Be warned thought the pervious owner of it was going for a light weight version and cut a lot of plastic off it. Like the air vents down each side of the tank.  I am thinking fibre glass might be the go with it though.
Mark

Mark,

If you can borrow good parts that represent adequate examples of what you need there, then check out 3D printing.  The good item gets scanned, then a copy is produced for you.  You may need to get creative in finding the tools and an operator.  Here, the public libraries have 3d printers, and teach classes on doing the job.  It does not cost all that much, although a commercial operation may want to wring out your wallet for you.         

Somebody in another city may be able to get their parts duplicated for you, and simply send you the new parts.  3D printing can be done in dozens of materials, including a variety of metals.  I would not try to make machined steel parts, but anything less should be fair game.      

[Diesel Dave]

Hi troy doing a gr8 job there on yummy. If you need any parts let me know

[Troyskie]

Thanks fellas! Mark, honestly mate, have a go at the plastics. Getting them to this rough form is not hard, just takes ages . Getting them paint ready will be the hard part I reckon.

Red, I do have access to a 3D printer. Monkey sent me the file for the fairing protectors ages ago and I've still not made them!

I do like your idea of the scanner!

Dave, I'll show you all your cool parts at Mudgee. I might have 4 ambulance sets to paint

[Troyskie]

INTERLUDE..... que music...

[big r]

Love the mods Troy. Done anything to the engine yet

[Troyskie]

Strewth! One more weekend till Mudgee!

All last plastic basic repairs complete. Endless bloody cracks and so few remaining tabs really slowed the job.

Discovered the seat needed work, the latch lugs needed straightening.

Wheels off for new tyres.

New instruments in and I think working.

New handle bars and switch gear checked. New front master check fit, perfect (thanks Pete!).

MORE F!#£¥ING PLASTIC CRACKS!!

An interesting side note. As Yummy is an American girl she had hard wired lights. With the replacement switchgear having a headlight switch I was concerned I'd have issues, but nope. Plug and play. Hmm I didn't  check the pass switch, I'll do that later.

Three issues. First The rear brake switch is not working. It was dodgy before & perhaps the crash finished it. I can pinch the one off Effie if I have to.

Second, the tail light is on full time and must be legacy of the US hardwired lights.

Third, the headlight glass looked ok. But the corner was damaged and now I need to swap the glass from another headlight that I have. I've removed the spring clips, but the glass seems fixed in place. Anyone know if I can remove the glass from the plastic body?

[ribbert]

Three issues. First The rear brake switch is not working. It was dodgy before & perhaps the crash finished it. I can pinch the one off Effie if I have to.

Second, the tail light is on full time and must be legacy of the US hardwired lights.

Third, the headlight glass looked ok. But the corner was damaged and now I need to swap the glass from another headlight that I have. I've removed the spring clips, but the glass seems fixed in place. Anyone know if I can remove the glass from the plastic body?

Troy, I am mightily impressed by you progress. You will have earned your attendance at Mudgee more than anyone.

The easiest fix for rear brake light switch is a universal banjo pressure switch. Fits between the master cylinder and brake hose banjo -$10 and easy to install and the local shop should have one (or don't worry about it if the front one's working)

Front and back lights staying on is as you suggest.

Despite clips, headlight glass does not separate from reflector.

If these are your only remaining jobs, sounds like you're good to go. Have you had the OK from the quack yet?

[Troyskie]

Thanks Noel. That is a bugger about the headlight. I might have to pinch that out of Effie for the trip as well. Hmm, I might be better just taking Effie.....

RE the bone shaker, wellllll,    naaaaa. Not a hope I'd even ask. Kind of 'ask forgiveness instead of permission'. Jokes aside, I think doc will be cool.

On my Effie practice rides I stiffen up pretty well after about 50 min in the saddle. If I push on it will stuff up my day. The real test is convincing SWMBO I'm good to go. We discussed going as a family group, but the kids would in the car for a long time over a normal weekend, so that is out. Once the rain stops (yeah! Rain, woo hoo, tanks are full again) I'll see again how ride fit I am.

Absolutely making Mudgee, just working out how.... and on who....will I get Yummy ready in time? Or does everyone get to see Effie again?

[Urban_Legend]

Troy
I may have a replacement headlight for you. Will have to have a look when i get home from work. Not sure on how the reflector quality is will let your know. Yours for cost of postage.

Mark