Refreshing my ´85 ambulance

[Pat Conlon]

Stepan, have you reviewed this?  http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=666.0

Perhaps Randy or Robert from RPM can respond on the FJ/XJR tranny swap. I know the XJR output shaft is used on the FJ transmission to get the front sprocket moved out (instead of using an offset sprocket) sometimes needed on some 17" rear wheel mods, (along with the XJR longer clutch push rod and XJR sprocket cover) so why couldn't a FJ output shaft be used on a XJR tranny?

Some questions should be left to experts (not me)

Sorry to hear of your woes, but if you fix it right, you will never have to worry about it again.

[RPM - Robert]

Pat, you pretty much nailed it. He will need the longer shift shaft, clutch pushrod, and the XJR sprocket cover assembly, as well as a offset sprocket to be able to get the chain lined back up; along with all the other necessary gaskets, o-rings, shift forks, etc that he should be replacing as well. I would suggest putting the Undercut Transmission in. This would be the easiest way to go.

[Pat Conlon]

Robert, can Stepan use a XJR tranny and instead of using the long XJR output shaft, he re-uses his existing FJ output shaft? He has no need to move the counter shaft sprocket out.
That way he can re-use his standard FJ clutch push rod and sprocket cover.

[Bezmozek]

Pat: Thank you very much, found this article elsewhere, but here are pictures to find all 37 bolts 

Robert: Thanks for offer, but to be honest, 550$ +P&P to Europe is way out of my budget and as on German ebay there are complete XJR transmissions (at the moment two offers for approx 150USD incl. shipping, claimed 17 / 18k km.
and my bike has 86k km, this seems to be reasonable replacement, newer bearings, revised shift forks etc.

https://www.ebay.de/itm/Getriebe-Yamaha-XJR1200-Bj-1997-18000-Km/251397381961?hash=item3a88739f49:g:2rEAAMXQWzNSoeeE
https://www.ebay.de/itm/Yamaha-XJR-1200-Getriebe-Motor-Antrieb/152947428271?hash=item239c608baf:g:ry8AAOSwYgFaq-rX

If this is possible, since engine will be split in halves, thinking about changing crank and rod bearings and engine should last another 80k km??

[RPM - Robert]

We also stock every transmission gears & parts, but they are not listed on the website.

If you have a complete parts list I can quote you prices of the gears you need

[Pat Conlon]

Stepan, either way, make sure you replace the 3 shift forks, so plan on those for sure.
Instead of $150 for a XJR tranny, get a price from Robert for just the gears you need.

if you get the XJR tranny, perhaps you can use your FJ shaft (thus my question to Robert) so you don't have to get the XJR sprocket cover and long XJR push rod.

Cheers and best wishes.  Pat

[RPM - Robert]

Pat, yes, he can use the FJ shaft but he will need a press and a Bearing splitter which if he doesn't have, is another added cost. I thought he asked for the easiest way which is why I linked the undercut transmission. Now that we have established he is trying to do it on a budget. The cheapest way would be to buy the used XJR transmission, along with a used shift shaft, used push rod, used cover, and an offset sprocket.

The main and rod bearings can not be changed if just removing the bottom half of the case to do the transmission.

Here is a list of parts I would change.

Crankshaft seals (both sides)
Transmission output shaft seal
Pickup screen
Clutch push rod seal
Shift shaft seal in the case (the XJR cover also has two seals and a bearing that should be checked)
Center case o-ring
Oil pan gasket
Clutch clover gasket
All three oil pump o-rings
Oil pump snap ring
All three shift forks
Clutch lock washer
Shift Detent Kit
Sprocket lock washer

If changing the 2nd and 5th pinions your cost would be
$29.99 for the second pinion and $57.11 for the 5th plus I would change all the thrust washers in between the gears. Plus the cost of tools. Or labor to have someone else do it

[Bezmozek]

Thank you very very much guys, you're awesome.
So XJR shaft is 8mm longer, will not fit under FJ cover, as XJR one has different shape because of frame? in case I will not be able to outsource press, I will need 8mm offset sprocket?
Will check main/rod bearings and depending on conditions will decide, anyway I do not think I will find color codes after 30yrs.
also timing chain guides are worn, will see as I split the engine, but want to have most of parts ready and keep my FJ alive for a few more years.
For now, XJR tranny is way to go.
Thanks again and will let you know

[RPM - Robert]

The cover is longer to accommodate the longer shafts. You are going to need an offset sprocket regardless if using the xjr output shaft, to keep the chain aligned.

[Pat Conlon]

Stepan, just a note on the XJR sprocket cover (you will need with the XJR tranny)

Don't install the XJR sprocket cover while the engine is out of the bike. If you do this you will find that, with the FJ frame you can't get the clearance to get XJR sprocket cover off without removing the engine.

Wait and put the XJR cover on *after* the engine is mounted back in the frame. You will see you have to grind away some aluminum on the XJR sprocket cover in order to get it mounted.
(The XJR uses a backbone frame design vs the FJ's perimeter frame)

Thanks to Kookaloo Frank for this little nugget.

Robert, we are going to talk Stepan into a 17" rear wheel conversion just so he does not have to use an offset sprocket with his new XJR tranny ....we know he really, really wants to..,

[Bezmozek]

....we know he really, really wants to..,

Nice try Pat

but to pass local MOT I have to stay with both 16"
Law here is probably way different than in US.
Testers here are more than interested in "street legal" parts, which means that on every single part should be E4, E8, E27, E-whatever stamp, to prove that everything is safe and certified, but last year i passed MOT with all brake rotors worn below limits, dead rear shock, leaking forks......  and exhaust collector felt apart right next day. 

[Pat Conlon]

Don't oem Yamaha rims have that stamp?

[fj1289]

Are we sure this is a 2nd gear or a transmission issue?  Awfully hard to diagnose over the internet, but I'd eliminate issues in the shift mechanism first.   I think Alan (Firehawk068) had a shifting issue a year or two ago that was related to the very light spring that is part of the shift pawl. 

[Bezmozek]

Nothing is 100% sure, till engine is open, Shifting up is still precise as before, so I do not think shift drum is out of its position.
That the dogs are worn I know for like 10k km, nothing critical as I am sloooow rider, but IMHO I bent shifting fork now which causes wrong axial position of cogs on shaft. Hard to find neutral on traffic lights and rough shifting, which is very annoying.
As I can have nearly new tranny for 130USD, this is good chance to inspect lower engine, pickup screen and metal particles in oil pan if any, change/inspect seals etc.
Will know more later, now just searching for information what to expect and to have as much parts as possible ready.

2Pat: Yup, they have, but as my registration certificate says 16" I have to stay with 16". Even with different tire size https://youtu.be/mJZZNHekEQw?t=85 

[balky1]

Bezmozek, I've replied to your PM, don't know if you had seen it...