Dyna 2000 computer install

[laseron]

I'm considering installing the Dynatek 2000 DDK7-1 computer kit in my 89 FJ. Any advise or warnings would be great. It looks pretty straightforward, though the directions I downloaded from Dynatek seem a bit sparce.

[Pat Conlon]

I've heard stories thru the years that the Dyna ignitions work...until they don't.

Hopefully DavidR (FJ Hooligan) RPM Randy and others will chime in...

In reading thru your earlier posts, did you find the cause of your problems?

[FJ_Hooligan]

I installed Dynatek ignition module, coils and wires on my '85 a LONG time ago.

Right off, I had one of the coils fail.  I was in the middle of a pre-rally shakedown run on the highway and the failed coil caused the whole ignition module to shut down.  I coasted in to a Honda dealer where I proceeded to tear the bike down in their parking lot.  I called a friend to pick me up and take me back home where I had an extra unit (which was going to be installed on my '93 FJ).  I swapped to the new unit and still dead.  I tried ohmming the coils, but got strange results since the wires  were still hooked up.  Gave up and trailered the bike back home where the disconnected coils showed one to be bad.  Dynatek warrantied the coil, but I took a full set of replacements to the rally with me.  

Several years later (but not very many miles later, maybe 5000) I started having trouble with losing 2 cylinders.  Always happened while slowing down.  I'd go to pick the throttle back up and suddenly I was only running on 2 cylinders.  Stop and wait about 10 minutes and it would fire back up on all 4.  Didn't do it on every ride but had no indication when or where it would happen.  Of course it never did it at home where I could swap components to troubleshoot.  I finally called Dyna and they had me send the ignition unit back to them for testing.  It had a cold solder joint failure which would open up at random times.  Clearly a manufacturing defect but they "offered" to sell me a replacement for their "cost" at $123.  Had no choice but to pay.

In the meantime, I had swapped over to my second unit, which I purchased at the same time as the failed unit.  A year later, the second unit started the same symptom of randomly dropping 2 cylinders.  Sent it back and it had the same issue (shock!).  Paid another $123 for that replacement.  

No other problems since then.

I don't like their plug wires.  They are straight boots which barely fit under the tank and in fact rub the bottom of the tank.  They also require use of the little screw on tips on the top of the plug.  Somehow vibration allows the screw on tip to loosen up even though there is a nice "click" when installing the wire.  Every time I've checked the plugs, these screw on tips are loose.  So far none have actually fallen off, but it's still a bad design that allows them to loosen.

On the positive side.  With the ignition, coils, and wires, the engine literally jumps to life.  I haven't heard the starter actually have to crank the motor over in years.  You just touch the starter button and the engine is instantly running.  It's like an On switch.

Based on my experiences with the '85, I never installed the equipment on the '93.  That system is now backup equipment that goes with me on every trip.

Like Pat says, when their shit works, it works well.  The fact that I had to pay for their manufacturing defect still disappoints me enough that I can't give a ringing endorsement for their product.

YMMV

[laseron]

I still haven't solved the issue. Runs fine on startup, and then for several miles. Could be heat is affecting the coils or computer. It could still be a bum fuel pump, even though it's new. RPM is currently out of stock on their fuel pump, so I'll just have to see what I can do with the old one. I've seen a few OEM pumps on eBay, but there's no telling how much life is left in them. I could try RPM's fuel pump rebuild part. Thanks for the input on the Dynamics's 2000.

[Alf]

Years ago, Randy explained me that the OE coils and wires are the best. It is described in my website, as literal as Randy sent to me

With OE coils and the ignition relay mod my 2 FJs start only touching the button with hesitation, both are measured 12v at the spark plug, with no voltage loss and I´ve never have a problem in my 3CV in my long journeys

I think there are better ways to improve your FJ with that money

Regards

Alf

[FJ_Hooligan]

Isolate the fuel pump by plumbing around it temporarily.  Connect the input and output hoses with a brass connector fitting.  5/16 inch.

Best to do it with a full tank.  It's a very simple test and can be done with only removing the sidecover.

[laseron]

Thanks for the tips, I'll check the fuel pump out again. Is it worth buying a used OEM pump and replacing the breaker unit with one from RPM?

[Pat Conlon]

Bypass the fuel pump first...see if that's the problem before you spend any money. Is your fuel filter clean?

[laseron]

I'm off the idea of installing the Dyna 2000 kit. Too many bad reviews. I'd like to try the ignition coil relay mod. Where can I find the plans for it? May not solve the problem, but it couldn't hurt. I'm also going to replace the aftermarket pump with a stock used one, with the idea that I can rebuild it with the RPM part. I'll let you know how it goes.

[ZOA NOM]

I'm off the idea of installing the Dyna 2000 kit. Too many bad reviews. I'd like to try the ignition coil relay mod. Where can I find the plans for it? May not solve the problem, but it couldn't hurt. I'm also going to replace the aftermarket pump with a stock used one, with the idea that I can rebuild it with the RPM part. I'll let you know how it goes.

http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=1755.0

[laseron]

I tested the Dyna Coils I installed several years ago, and each measures 6.6 ohms,. They're supposed to be 3 ohms. Is this enough of a difference to matter?

[FJ_Hooligan]

Were the coils hooked up?  Or did you measure them off the bike?

[laseron]

I measured them off the bike, no wires connected.

[FJ_Hooligan]

This is far from my area of expertise, but I would assume you're okay since the bike is still running.

With twice the resistance the coils are supposed to have, your current flow is cut in half.  That "should" reduce the amount of charge the coils is able to build up for the spark.

Therefore, you're probably not getting as good of a spark as you could be getting.  But as long as you're getting a spark, the fuel/air mixture will ignite.  You're just not seeing the full benefit of the coil's performance potential.

I think it would be a problem if the resistance decreases.  This would allow more current to flow and overheat the coil or the ignition box.

[laseron]

So, as to my intermittent problem of running rough after several miles, and eventually shutting off, I'm back to suspecting the aftermarket fuel pump. While the engine was running in the garage (and running just fine, by the way) I unplugged the fuel pump from its wiring connector, an it made no difference. Engine kept idling, and revving it up to 4,000 rpm went well too. I'm going to replace the pump with a "known working" used OEM pump anyway, and see if the power loss and stalling goes away. Of course, in the garage, it never even hiccuped while running, even after a good heat soak from idling.