Master Cylinder Rebuild

[ryanschoebel]

I recently ordered, and used a master cylinder rebuild kit for my clutch from RPM. I put everything together, and now, after bleeding 3 times using the syringe method, the clutch still won't disengage. The lever is firm, but in first,with the clutch in, I can't roll back and forth. I can a little bit, but there is a lot of resistance. Without the lever pulled in, I can only Rock back and forth a few inches, like normal. I did the lever back last night, and no change. Any ideas?

Also, if anyone has some pictures of the order for the master cylinder internals, that would be a big help. I have a schematic, but it isn't super detailed.

[ryanschoebel]

Also, I have to give a shout out to FJmonkey, the man is a trooper. He has put up with at least two dozen messages from me, trying to help me figure this thing out. Thanks for all your help!

[Motofun]

Try bleeding the master by cracking the banjo bolt at the MC.  It's a little messy so have a wet towel under the fitting.  This way the MC get all the bubbles out and you can then bleed the line the normal way. 

[racerrad8]

Ryan the lip of the seals should both point to the center of the bike.

The pull back on the handle doesn't usually work on the clutch. The slave cylinder has a spring in it and does not allow the piston to fully compress. So the air bubbles will not come out like on the brakes.

If you unbolt the slave cylinder, carefully compress the slave piston to the bottom with the banjo fitting at the highest point. Be very careful, the brake fluid will spit out of the MC reservoir like a geyser and get all over the windshield.

If when you squeeze you see air bubble that is most likely the issue, unless you install one on the piston seals backward. If that is that case, it cannot build enough pressure to activate the clutch.

Randy - RPM