West Coast,RSA summer project

[FJmonkey]

Well.... Get on with it then. You have my address Fred. Then we can add one gem for to the files section.

[aj52]

Sorry Hannes I don't have a set on hand and have Long since lost the plans I had drawn up. I just order a set from the machinist. He has saved the program for the CNC machine. He has a spare set right now but I'm sure shipping would be prohibitive.

Dan, I can reverse engineer that set if they are not needed right away.

Mark,

I actually have set of Dan's extensions that are not yet in use.


Fred

Fred,

With Dan's permission,can you please give me dimensions of the piece?
The outside diameter of piece that goes over fork and the wall thickness of that piece.(inside diameter is 50mm).
The length of bigger piece where it start to recess.

The OD off recess part is 50mm.
What is the wall thickness on recess part.

Dan

If it is all right and in order with you,may Fred give me the dimensions on the extenders please?

Thanks
Hannes

[FJmonkey]

I have the concept, I just need to verify the machining details and dimensions so I can make a proper drawing.

[aj52]

I have the concept, I just need to verify the machining details and dimensions so I can make a proper drawing.

Thanks Mark

The idea that I have for using OEM clip-ons, is to machine a 41mm OD piece which threads into the extender piece. So when one wants to make adjustments on the forks,you can just take off clip-ons,unscrew the 41mm piece to gain access to the top of the fork.
This is only an idea that I have,hope it will be feasible.

Hannes

[FJmonkey]

Thanks Mark

The idea that I have for using OEM clip-ons, is to machine a 41mm OD piece which threads into the extender piece. So when one wants to make adjustments on the forks,you can just take off clip-ons,unscrew the 41mm piece to gain access to the top of the fork.
This is only an idea that I have,hope it will be feasible.

Hannes

So the part that the bars clamp on to are threaded into the GSXR adapter. Do you have an idea how to keep the threads from turning when there is a load on the bar like hard braking?

[aj52]

Mark

The OEM clip-ons for the FJ has an hole for allen-cap bolt that threads into yoke. Won't that prevent the clip-ons from moving for hard braking etc.?

[aj52]

Mark

The OEM clip-ons for the FJ has an hole for allen-cap bolt that threads into yoke. Won't that prevent the clip-ons from moving for hard braking etc.?

Or make a shoulder on the piece and cut an recess at bottom of clip-ons so that it is flush. Say about 2mm or so.
That will also prevent piece from turning

Hannes

[giantkiller]

Yes I'm not making any money off them. I just think it's cool that something I came up with an improved on with the second generation is something good and others can use. Be sure to put the bolts in from opposite sides for the 2 pieces. Makes it more convenient to get at the Allen's.  The machinist only had access to black Allen's. I put stainless ones in.

Hannes. Like I said I made the little extensions for the locating pins for the clippons. When up in touring position.
But I decided not to use them. As long as you have the clamps tight on the top triple and the clamps for the clippons. They won't rotate. I bent the second set of aluminum ones I made too thin (thinking lighter is better) and didn't rotate them. And I had the deer commit suicide on my chest and didn't rotate them. But it would be simple like you said to lock them in place. The Gixxer clippons just have a pin that goes into a hole in the top triple clamp. If you blow up the picture of the clippons I made. You can see the extensions I made for the pins.(actually look like miniture fork extensions)

[aj52]

Thanks Dan for the permission. Your design looks much better than the one's on the web.
I will look what to do when I receive the triple's back from my father-in-law(my machinist). He is doing it for me,just needs to buy the materials and something to keep his throat wet while he is busy with machining.

What is the c-c distance of the FJ's top triple. Know the offset is 35mm. All the parts are with him for the stem to be machined and press fit and to make the spacer on top triple

[aj52]

Found the c-c of the FJ,it is 210mm according to Tarossi(www.fastfromthepast.com).
The R1('98-01) parts that I've got last weekend for front-end,has the same c-c on front-end as well as same offset.

[aviationfred]

I did find another handle bar option.... The downside is..... It is the most expensive option. Here is the link.

https://m.ebay.com/itm/Superbike-Handlebars-Conversion-KIT-SUZUKI-GSX-R-1000-01-08-BLACK-ANODISED-/272644669188

The first photo is of the Superbike bar conversion.

The second photo is from my fork conversion using the Tarozzi handle bars from Fastfromthepast.com. They are close to being half the cost of the superbike conversion. During the time that I had the USD forks. I never had movement with the Tarozzi bars. To verify this, I put a black paint stripe on the clamp area and the adaptor.


Fred

[aj52]

Received the triple's and stem today.
The spacer that comes between stem and top triple.
Forget what machinist called the process on the stem to make it not turning in lower triple,but it wasn't necessary to weld up and machine it down again to fit tight. This is what he has done to it

[jscgdunn]

Aj,
Just bit of advice.  I have done two USD front end conversions, one with an 2008 R1 front end, and one with a 2008 ZX14 front end.  For the R1 I used an FZ1 top triple and bars; this worked out well.  For the Zx14 I have a modified ZX14 top triple and LSL bars.  Not so great....I am on my second set of bars. 

If I had a "do over", I would go with the adjustable clip on bars like Fred did along with Dan's extensions.  This approach gives much more flexibility as you will need to manage interference points between the tank and fairing and find a good riding position.  My thoughts.

On the bottom triple, in the R1 case, my machinist had to lengthen the FJ stem (as it appears in your pic) and then press in.  This allows for the greater thickness of the R1 bottom triple. 

In the ZX14 case, the ZX14 stem can be used by using the bottom Zx14 bearing and race.  The top of the stem needs to be turned down to fit the top FJ bearing.

I found the R1 fork springs were fine, but I did have to replace the ZX14 springs as they were too soft.

Jeff

[aj52]

Aj,
Just bit of advice.  I have done two USD front end conversions, one with an 2008 R1 front end, and one with a 2008 ZX14 front end.  For the R1 I used an FZ1 top triple and bars; this worked out well.  For the Zx14 I have a modified ZX14 top triple and LSL bars.  Not so great....I am on my second set of bars.  

If I had a "do over", I would go with the adjustable clip on bars like Fred did along with Dan's extensions.  This approach gives much more flexibility as you will need to manage interference points between the tank and fairing and find a good riding position.  My thoughts.

On the bottom triple, in the R1 case, my machinist had to lengthen the FJ stem (as it appears in your pic) and then press in.  This allows for the greater thickness of the R1 bottom triple.  

In the ZX14 case, the ZX14 stem can be used by using the bottom Zx14 bearing and race.  The top of the stem needs to be turned down to fit the top FJ bearing.

I found the R1 fork springs were fine, but I did have to replace the ZX14 springs as they were too soft.

Jeff

Hi Jeff

Thank you for your input and advice on the top triple between the 2 different modifications.
I searched the info on FZ1 top triple as you suggested. It has an offset of 25mm,same as the '08 R1.
The '98-'02 R1 front-end that I have,has an 35mm offset,same as the FJ.
I'm going to fit the front-end tomorrow to get measurements for fork extenders,modify ignition switch and the stops.
Going to use the R1 top triple.
The handlebars will be sort out when I start assembling after the powdercoating of the frame and swingarm.

Hannes

[The General]

Aj,
Just bit of advice.  I have done two USD front end conversions, one with an 2008 R1 front end, and one with a 2008 ZX14 front end.  For the R1 I used an FZ1 top triple and bars; this worked out well.  For the Zx14 I have a modified ZX14 top triple and LSL bars.  Not so great....I am on my second set of bars.  

If I had a "do over", I would go with the adjustable clip on bars like Fred did along with Dan's extensions.  This approach gives much more flexibility as you will need to manage interference points between the tank and fairing and find a good riding position.  My thoughts.

On the bottom triple, in the R1 case, my machinist had to lengthen the FJ stem (as it appears in your pic) and then press in.  This allows for the greater thickness of the R1 bottom triple.  

In the ZX14 case, the ZX14 stem can be used by using the bottom Zx14 bearing and race.  The top of the stem needs to be turned down to fit the top FJ bearing.

I found the R1 fork springs were fine, but I did have to replace the ZX14 springs as they were too soft.

Jeff

Hi Jeff

Thank you for your input and advice on the top triple between the 2 different modifications.
I searched the info on FZ1 top triple as you suggested. It has an offset of 25mm,same as the '08 R1.
The '98-'02 R1 front-end that I have,has an 35mm offset,same as the FJ.
I'm going to fit the front-end tomorrow to get measurements for fork extenders,modify ignition switch and the stops.
Going to use the R1 top triple.
The handlebars will be sort out when I start assembling after the powdercoating of the frame and swingarm.

Hannes

MINE has a really terrible turning circle. (R1 early model front end). Interested to hear how yours is. Looking at ways to improve.