Seized Engine!

[Rscott8111]

So after having some time to check out my free FJ1200, I believe the engine is locked up. I pulled the starter off and hit it with voltage, it spins strong. With the bike in gear and the spark plugs pulled out, I can not spin the back tire at all. With hard bumping of the back tire it moves slightly, but I think that's just the clutch giving way as the piston top I can see does not appear to be moving. I filled all four plug holes with PB blaster to see if anything will drain out or loosen up in the top. I guess my next step is to pull the valve cover to check chains and see if anything in there will move. Is there anything else I should check before giving up on this engine, or any suggestions you may have? Is there any place other than ebay to get a cheep running engine? I really don't want this to become a parts bike!

Thanks
Rob

[balky1]

Put the bike in first gear and give it a strong push backwards. In some weird cases a starter chain gets locked up somewhere and this frees it. Someone wrote about it a long time ago. Worth a try.

[Rscott8111]

It was worth a shot, but no dice.

[Pat Conlon]

How about turning the engine over by using the bolt on the ignition timing plate?
With a long cheater bar, rock the bolt back and forth, see if anything loosens up..

[Rscott8111]

That got it! There is hope! Using a 14mm socket on my ratchet, I rocked it back and forth the equivalent of maybe 1/16th of a turn. I gave a good hard pull counter clockwise and it popped loose with no cheater bar. Stuck rings maybe? I rotated it 10 revolutions and it  got smoother each one. The PB blaster is still sitting in the cylinders so none leaked down. I'm still gonna pull the valve cover to check things out. I already checked the head torque and every bolt was loose. Most were 1/2 turn the outer exhaust two were each a full turn loose. Any more thoughts or suggestions anyone.?

[Pat Conlon]

Yep, stuck rings.... Loosen each head bolt individually  (not all at once) then torque the head bolts to 25 ft.lbs.
Now that you can turn the engine over, you can check your valves.
If you choose to support our FJ Owners forum by becoming a bronze, silver or gold contributing member, you will get access to rent a shim kit (and valve tool) which will make your valve adjustments easy.
Here's more info: http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=8969.0
We really can use your support....this forum is getting expensive to keep online.

You're on your way! Nothing like a free bike....we will keep our fingers crossed that no demons are lurking in the engine...

Cheers. Pat

[fj1289]

Do you know the history of the bike?  Last time it ran?  Was it stored outside?  With the spark plugs out?  If the rings are rusted to the bores, it'll take at least a small bore to clean up the cylinder walls.   Rust in the bores tends to cause pretty deep pits that won't clean up with just a hone.  

[FJ_Hooligan]

When you get a chance, do a compression check or leakdown test

[Rscott8111]

I'll definitely check out the membership plans. The last time it ran had to be somewhere around 2013, that's the last inspection date and the expired 2014 plate is still on it. It was stored inside for sure. The paint is in really good condition. The P.O. cared for it up to a point for sure. It has three windshields including a rifle brand extended. A Yamaha brand saddle bag trunk bag combo thing. A gps with mount and a nice ram cell phone mount. Original seat and a perfect Corbin seat with passenger back rest. A Givi monokey trunk mount. The carbs were really gummed up. I have them soaking right now. Tomorrow I'll do a compression test and the other things you guys recommended. The carbs should be good to go tomorrow.

Thanks everyone. I'll keep you updated as I go along.

[krusty]

I had similar problem with my FJ11. I initially thought the engine was seized but I could get the rear wheel to move back and forward a little while in gear. I had a possible theory and I think it was right. There was a stuck valve and continual rocking of the rear wheel back and forward eventually freed it up. The bike has run strong ever since and it had sat outdoors for over 9 years before i got it. It's done over 100k klm and doesn't burn oil.

[Rscott8111]

 Nice! That could very well have been my problem as well. It's so hard to say at this point. I'm really hoping I can get this thing fired up in the next few days. I had to order plugs which won't be in until Monday. By then I should have most everything else done for startup. It's supposed to rain all day here tomorrow so it looks like a perfect shop day.

[balky1]

Nice to hear of your progress!

[Rscott8111]

I got back to it early this morning. I got the carbs all done and ready to go. I hooked up power and guess what, starter won't spin the engine over! It's clicking, it's engaging, but no spin of the engine. I pulled it off yesterday and confirmed it wasn't seized up. I put a wrench on the timing bolt and gave it a jolt as I hit the starter, still nothing. I can still turn it over with a wrench, it has drag I'm not sure how much I should be feeling though. No harder than what I'm doing with a small ratchet I imagine the starter should do easily. So, what about this starter chain? Could the starter be that week? The battery terminals are getting really hot and the power shut down at one point where I had to disconnect and reconnect.

[red]

I got back to it early this morning. . .  I hooked up power and guess what, starter won't spin the engine over!  The battery terminals are getting really hot and the power shut down at one point where I had to disconnect and reconnect.

Rscott,

Clean battery terminals will not get hot.  They must be dirty.  Disassemble and clean away any crud or corrosion on the cable ends and battery terminals, down to bright metal, and try it again.  Clean the battery cable connection to ground at the chassis.  Charge the battery while you do all that, just for fun.  Try a start with jumper cables, too (leave the car engine turned off.)  If the starter spins the engine with the positive jumper connected to battery, the battery is weak.  If not, clean the cable ends at the starter solenoid.  If that does not get the starter working well, make a momentary contact from the positive jumper to the cable on the starter solenoid that goes to the starter.  If that makes the starter spin well, but nothing less helps, then the starter solenoid is bad.  If nothing here helps, then the starter itself has a problem.

Good hunting!    

[Rscott8111]

Update. After finishing the carbs I tried again with the starter. I put in a new battery, nothing. All cables spotless, all connections good. Pulled the starter, spins strong with the push of the button. With a wrench on the timing bolt, turning counter clockwise I still spin the engine. Turning the wrench clockwise delivers no turning of the engine at all. In fifth gear rotating the wheel forward the engine turns over. Rotating back words no spin. Starter back in with fresh battery and jumper cables, still no spin of the engine and cables start to overheat.  I'm thinking the starter chain has broken or there is some other internal blockage keeping the starter gears from spinning. Question, should the engine spin in reverse with a wrench? I read the thread about the stuck starter system and bumping it in reverse direction as previously suggested. Mine definitely will not spin in reverse direction. I'm apprehensive to crank on it without further expertise.

Thoughts?