I have a Dream 2

[giantkiller]

Very cool, I'm looking at the Panasonic cold climate erv units adjustable 50 to 100 cfm.
I'm happy to hear you like it.

Fresh air in the house is good.

Lol! That's what I have. I don't think you'll need the cold climate version. They make  regular moderate climate ones.

[giantkiller]

So I have another crazy idea I'm thinking about... I don't have any concrete on any of my driveway. Or parking areas yet... I was sitting here looking at all the snow in my driveway. I  just drive over it with the truck. A couple of times it was probably a foot and a half deep. And it got me to thinking.... I'm going to put in a solar/hydronic heated driveway.  So I'll never have to shovel, plow, or snowblow. EVER. Won't have  to buy anything to do those things. Won't have to buy gas, salt.  Won't have to do maintenance on any of those things.

I will install the pex and installation just like I did in the shop slabs. Will use solar hot water panels. A holding tank behind the panels. (The biggest water heater I can get cheap) Will have a small photovoltaic panel that will run a circulation pump that will pump the water/antifreeze through the panels and then through the driveway. Only when the sun is shining. Obviously won't melt it during the storm. But as soon as the sun shines it will. Since I already know how to do it myself. Should only add a couple thousand to the cost of the driveway (depending on the cost of the panels). And will cost zero to run.  

[Pat Conlon]

Here's a lesson I learned...I had a solar domestic water system on my Palm Desert house for 25 years. 2 double glazed Fafco panels which circulated water into into a 82 gallon storage tank which fed into my regular 50 gallon natural gas water heater.  Basically free hot water, but always with a gas back up.
Great system until the freeze sensor failed one cold night.
I used a Grundfos circ. pump to move the water from the tank thru the panels and when temp was below 40*f this system would come on and run for 1 minute out of every 10 minutes preventing the water from freezing in the panels.....anyhoo, the sensor failed, the pump stayed off and the frozen water split the copper tubes in both Fafco panels, FUBAR'ed...
 I had an open system for domestic potable hot water, you will have a closed system where you can run a glycol mixture, although will that mixture be enough to keep your panels from freezing at night?
I would plan on an anti freeze function on your circ. pump. ......and redundant sensors.

On your concrete driveway, specify air entrainment in your mix, for prevention of spalling.

Cheers

[Waiex191]

At my old EAA chapter, we filled our heating system with antifreeze instead of water.  That was before I got there, and the thought was to be able to save money by leaving the heat off.  That would require an additional investment in antifreeze.  I had thought about doing the same thing for my front porch when I redid it, but I'm thinking I'll just use plain concrete and shovel it.

[giantkiller]

Yep glycol. Better yet ethanol. Since I decided to do this. I found a company that makes wood boilers for heating.  They are in the very northwest corner of the state. And they are doing the same thing. For solar heating system for their home. Go figure. Make wood boilers but use solar.  Probably both. Going to visit them this summer. I'm more worried about what to do with the heat dump during the summer.

[giantkiller]

Thanks for the info on the concrete Pat.  Didn't know about that. Will be sure to talk to the concrete guy.

[Motofun]

For what it's worth.  When I replaced the calcium solution in the tractor tires I used windshield washer fluid...good to -20F (-30C).  I bought a 55 gallon drum.  The stuff is inert, doesn't cause rust or affect paint and it sits forever in plastic containers so it would probably be a good fluid for your intended purpose.

[giantkiller]

For what it's worth.  When I replaced the calcium solution in the tractor tires I used windshield washer fluid...good to -20F (-30C).  I bought a 55 gallon drum.  The stuff is inert, doesn't cause rust or affect paint and it sits forever in plastic containers so it would probably be a good fluid for your intended purpose.

Wow would never have thought of that. Thanks  Was a 55 gallon drum expensive?

[Millietant]

On your concrete driveway, specify air entrainment in your mix, for prevention of spalling.

Cheers

With little regard for cost, I'd also specify adding polypropylene fibres.

[Motofun]

For what it's worth.  When I replaced the calcium solution in the tractor tires I used windshield washer fluid...good to -20F (-30C).  I bought a 55 gallon drum.  The stuff is inert, doesn't cause rust or affect paint and it sits forever in plastic containers so it would probably be a good fluid for your intended purpose.

Wow would never have thought of that. Thanks  Was a 55 gallon drum expensive?

Sorry, about 10 years ago, I forget.  After calcium causing my wheels to rust it was worth the cost.

[giantkiller]

I'm getting ready to run my air lines for the shop. And  also the side where the  bikes are going to be parked. And wanting suggestions. I'm going to run supply trunk along the ceiling and drop down to outlets on the walls. Should I  run a line down to each outlet. Or  just one line down to a  horizontal line for the outlets on each wall? Also how close should I  space the  outlets? I'm going to have one hose reel above the bike lift. And one over by garage door.

On the side where the bikes are going to be parked. How many outlets should I  have there? To check the tires before I take one for a ride.

Thanks, Dan

[fj1289]

I'm getting ready to run my air lines for the shop. And  also the side where the  bikes are going to be parked. And wanting suggestions. I'm going to run supply trunk along the ceiling and drop down to outlets on the walls. Should I  run a line down to each outlet. Or  just one line down to a  horizontal line for the outlets on each wall? Also how close should I  space the  outlets? I'm going to have one hose reel above the bike lift. And one over by garage door.

On the side where the bikes are going to be parked. How many outlets should I  have there? To check the tires before I take one for a ride.

Thanks, Dan

I like the idea of dropping vertically to each outlet with the drop extending well below the outlet and including a drain at the bottom of each. 

I wouldn't think it is possible to have too many outlets!

[giantkiller]

I'm going to have a drain on the bottom of each outlet for sure. I really can't decide on how many/close to have them for the shop. I  have 16'x17" work bench beside the bike lift. And 18'x30" main work bench along the end wall. Making an L shape. Probably have more outlets there? But I just don't know how close/many I should have.

Or how many for the bike parking side?

[ribbert]

As Chris says, you can't have too many (just think of them as extra capacity once up to pressure), but considering that air hoses generally have a bit of length to them, you shouldn't need too many. Just take an average length air hose you currently use and make sure you can reach all points of the garage. You might be surprised how few you actually need. There's no great advantage to having outlets right next to where you're working if a reasonable length hose will reach the job.

If you extend the drop below the outlet, fit a cheap ($5) 1/4 turn lever ball valve on the bottom, otherwise you'll never drain them once the novelty wears off. If you plan on doing any painting, you should have a water trap and filter at the compressor anyway.

Air outlets are not like power outlets, you really only use one at a time, there aren't multiple devices that need to remain plugged in.

It must be getting exciting Dan, just about there.

Noel

[Flynt]

I'm getting ready to run my air lines for the shop. And  also the side where the  bikes are going to be parked. And wanting suggestions.

Thanks, Dan

Dan - I did the header around the top approach and dropped straight down for the outlets...  I just put two long hose reels near the shop doors, a drop for my lift, and a drop for the sand blast cabinet.  I use the reels mainly, but wanted to be able to keep lines to a minimum when using air tools an cars/bikes and wanted a dedicated line for the blaster.

My biggest tip would be to use RapidAir or a similar product for the system.  You can easily add or delete outlets or even re-route the whole thing pretty easily.  Here's a link...https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200484023_200484023?cm_mmc=Google-pla&utm_source=Google_PLA&utm_medium=Air%20Tools%20%2B%20Compressors%20%3E%20Compressed%20Air%20Piping%20%2B%20Accessories%20%3E%20Air%20Compressor%20Piping%20Kits&utm_campaign=RapidAir&utm_content=20923&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8-nX2v797wIVNAytBh1wQQJwEAQYASABEgLjJ_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds.  Another benefit you won't need...  I had the compressor setup with RapidAir system in San Jose and moved it up here to Oregon...  reconfigured, added a few more bits, and was able to reuse the whole thing.  I believe RPM uses the same product in their shop.

Frank