Help! FJ1100 Garage Find- What Should I Know before Buying?

[Rusty34]

Hi everyone, new member here,

I am looking at a 1984 FJ1100 with 1200 actual miles for sale by the original owner. The motorcycle was riden up until 1987 and then not used anymore after that but the owner says it has always been stored and kept covered in a climate controlled garage. The engine was last started in 2007 but not anymore since. The owner reports the engine still turns over by pushing it in gear but the battery has long since been dead of course. He says the fuel tank is clean inside and there is no battery acid corrosion in or around the battery compartment. He wants me to make a fair offer which I am trying to figure out now. From what I can determine through searching around, good FJ1100s usually sell in the $2000 to $4000 range (is this right?). The cosmetic condition of this one is near mint and it still has all its original parts so might be worth more than $4000 but it is currently not running and has not run in a long time. Could there be some hidden problems involved with getting it operational again? Aside from new tires and battery and disassembling the entire fuel system for a good careful cleaning are these early FJ's known for having certain problems or issues associated with long term storage and many years of neglect? I need your expert opinions so I might be able to figure in advance what I am getting myself into here. I have all the tools and some experience with other vintage Japanese motorcycles but I don't know anything about Yamaha FJ1100's at this point.

Thanks in advance!
Rusty

[red]

Rusty,

The biggest consideration is something that you can't really know, unless the owner is willing to tell you now.  These early FJs can pop out of second gear, if the transmission has ever been abused in the past, or if you abuse it in the future.  Better shifter forks and undercutting the gear dogs will fix the problem, but that repair is not cheap, even if you DIY.  I would expect the carbs and hydraulics to need attention, especially the rubber parts.  The tires will be trash.  You are getting 16" wheels, which seriously limits your tire choices (Pirelli Sport Demons, Avon radials, and few if any others).  I run happy on the Pirellis, but you get more choices with a 17" front wheel.  17" front and rear wheels will give you every option, for tires.  Around here, we call the unending list of FJ upgrades Mod-itis.  This compulsion usually starts small, maybe bypassing the useless and troublesome Anti-Dive units on the forks, then goes to a spin-on oil filter adapter, then wheels, rear shock, and onwards into the stratosphere.
     
If I change to a 17" front wheel, I will change the entire front fork assembly at the steering head for something newer, getting better brakes and suspension in the deal for junkyard prices.  Oops . . .

That said, I would not pay much over US$2500 for a fully road-worthy FJ1100, and a fair bit less for one needing all the work needed for a garage-find to be safe.  Feel free to spend what you will, but please fix the safety items first.

[PaulG]

Hey there!    I've outlined some things that may make you paranoid, but these are worst-case scenarios.  Use them as a bargaining chip.

Hi everyone, new member here,

I am looking at a 1984 FJ1100 with 1200 actual miles for sale by the original owner. The motorcycle was riden up until 1987 and then not used anymore after that but the owner says it has always been stored and kept covered in a climate controlled garage. The engine was last started in 2007 but not anymore since. ...If the mileage is correct the engine will be barely broken in, if at all.  If this has had the same oil in it all this time, then mineral/organic oil will break down with bacteria growth. (Synthetic won't grow bacteria, Semi-synth? don't know) The byproduct of this is the oil may liquify and turn acidic.  It has the potential of etching any surface it is in contact with.  Before you see it call the owner a few days in advance to make sure it's on the ctr stand and not to move it after that.  Take off the filler cap and take a good sniff.  If you puke then that's what happened (it will smell like a sewer) - if it still smells more like oil then it might be ok.  Look in the sight glass (use a flashlight through the filler cap if req'd) and see if there is any evidence of separation (may/may not be visible).  Take a piece of regular printer paper and fold it length-wise (tear in 1/2 if req'd) and use as a dipstick to wick up some oil on it. If it has the look of an oil drain pan left out in the rain then there could be separation or condensation.  A certain level of condensation will always occur regardless of climate control unless theres a de-humidifier to lessen the chances.  The fork oil will do the same!  I bought my 92 in 07 and the fork oil had turned to a black sewer water (I dry-heaved! ).  Unscrew a fork cap (watch the spring recoil), if it hasn't been changed since storage I will bet you a paycheck it has done the same.


The owner reports the engine still turns over by pushing it in gear but the battery has long since been dead of course. He says the fuel tank is clean inside and there is no battery acid corrosion in or around the battery compartment.  ... Has the bike has been stored with a full tank or is it only partially full? Full tank good - partial tank bad.  If it's a partial tank shine a flashlight in and give the bike a shake.  If you see brown sludge stir up then there is some rust.  To what degeree?    A quick check for connectors is to remove the seat and pull apart some of them and inspect the male/female ends for oxidation.  Remove the gas tank (seat and side covers removed first & disconnect the fuel level sensor).  Check out the coils & connections.  They are located at the steering head.  Best scenario is no/nil oxidation.  This may give you an overall answer as to the condition of at least most of the connections.  If your good with a multimeter maybe you can check some other things. (Electrical not my strength - much better experts here who could advise on that).  If you can bring a battery and some jumpers (if req'd).  Don't attempt to start the bike yet.  Just turn on the ignition and see if all the switches/lights work.  Others here would be better off to advise whether hitting the starter button is a good idea to see if it turns over.


He wants me to make a fair offer which I am trying to figure out now. From what I can determine through searching around, good FJ1100s usually sell in the $2000 to $4000 range (is this right?). The cosmetic condition of this one is near mint and it still has all its original parts so might be worth more than $4000 but it is currently not running and has not run in a long time.  .... Yes & No ... A mint running stock FJ of that year may fetch the upper end.  In the general market most FJ's (IMO) are undervalued in comparison to other bikes of that vintage.  Experienced FJ owners may be willing to pay a bit more if they feel it is good value for money.  If he wants a fair price he should allow you to do a full-on autopsy on it.  If he hums & haws, then your offer goes down.  If he refuses for you to touch it - then the offer goes way down.  If you have the experience/talent and are willing to do most of the work yourself then it will be a good project.


Could there be some hidden problems involved with getting it operational again? Aside from new tires and battery and disassembling the entire fuel system for a good careful cleaning are these early FJ's known for having certain problems or issues associated with long term storage and many years of neglect?   ... You just answered most of your question with your question...   Hidden problems are just that.  Steering head/suspension/wheel bearings/bushings that haven't moved in decades may need replacing.  This 84 may/will develop a 2nd gear issue with the shift forks if ridden hard.  Look in the Files section regarding this.  There are other members much more experienced with this who could give you more detailed advice, (not an issue on my 92).


I need your expert opinions so I might be able to figure in advance what I am getting myself into here. I have all the tools and some experience with other vintage Japanese motorcycles but I don't know anything about Yamaha FJ1100's at this point.  Oh OK - you have experience and talent!  (note to self: read all the way to the end of the post!).  Mechanically you will find the FJ probably easier than most I-4's from Nippon (valve shim over buckets makes valve clearance adjustment a cinch  ).  Even for their time they were somewhat of a throwback.  While everyone was shedding weight (incl. Yamaha) and going liquid cooling the FJ was built like a tank - hence it's durability and longevity.  My 92 has 215,000 km now without opening it up.  "Now I'm no expert but..."  seriously I'm not, but I've been able to work/learn on this bike with a lot of help from this site and love it.  You never know when you come upon these.  A carb cleaning - change of all fluids - tires & chain - and you could be on the road.  Or a little patience may be in order.

Thanks in advance!
Rusty

That's my 2c worth.  If you can get it at a price you can live with then it would be a good find I think. 

[Rusty34]

Many thanks guys, you are a huge help! Here's a few pictures:

[aviationfred]

Purchasing this FJ begs for a serious inspection from a very knowledgeable FJ person. Everything mentioned above is very important. Also IMO, if you intend to use this as a running often ridden motorcycle. I would immediately replace every single rubber item on the motorcycle. Fork seals, intake boots, valve cover gasket, valve cover grommets, brake lines, every external engine cover gasket, intake boot O-rings, Front/rear brake master cylinder internal rebuild, clutch master/slave cylinder rebuilds.

Also keep in mind that many of these parts can and may be discontinued by Yamaha. An example would be the clutch master cylinder. An easy remedy is the use of a FJ1200 clutch master cylinder. The external appearance is the same, but the internals are different. The FJ1200 parts are available, the FJ1100 parts are not.


Fred

[FJ120086]

The turn signals appear to be fj1200 not the square fj1100 from the factory

[Pat Conlon]

Is this the Nevada bike Fred posted about?  http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=17055.0

If so, I see the listing ended @ $10k  Did you buy it Rusty?

[Rusty34]

Pat, it is the Nevada bike Fred posted about but I have not yet purchased it because of the high price. Actually it did not sell, the listing just ended while the seller was cutting the price a little at a time from his original $10.7K. I have wanted a blue chip quality FJ1100 for quite some time now, kept looking and waiting for the right one and then this one comes along... but the price! With that said, and it may be a new FJ1100 record, he does have a current outstanding offer of $8K. The seller has given me a couple of days to think it over and make an offer. I really like vintage Japanese motorcycles and I currently have a red 1975 Kawasaki H2C 750 2-stroke triple, complete original and would really like to park an equally nice FJ1100 in the garage next to it. Can you imagine the difference in the personalities between the two? If I buy it I will be bringing all systems back to working order and my wife will be watching how much money I spend on eBay buying parts to make it better!

[Rusty34]

The turn signals appear to be fj1200 not the square fj1100 from the factory

Looks like you are right, thank you for mentioning your observation!

Picture of another 84 I looked at:

[FJ_Hooligan]

Another nit: the bolts holding the lower fairing on are also not original.

Unless you're looking for a museum piece, save your money and continue looking for a more reasonably priced FJ.

As nice as that '84 is, I'd MUCH rather have my '85 with 60Kmiles and all the suspension and wheel upgrades in place. 

There are good deals to be had if you are willing to wait.  Right Joe Berk?

DavidR.

[Pat Conlon]

If you are looking for a display model, this is it. At this price level I would get a professional opinion if you are unfamiliar with these bikes. You know that odometers can be rolled back, correct? Before investing $8-10k I would insist it be in running condition to thoroughly check out the engine.

If you are looking for a FJ to ride, this is not what you want. As David said above, FJ's start off as reasonably good bikes, but made better with mods.
One of the things that makes FJ's reasonable, is the low buy in cost ($2-4k) allowing you ample $$ for mods.

A $10k FJ is not reasonable for a 33 year old bike that you will want to ride any significant distance, and FJ's are meant to be ridden. 

[aviationfred]

Before investing $8-10k I would insist it be in running condition to thoroughly check out the engine.

Here is an '84 for sale that is in the same running condition as the $10,000.00 FJ that you are looking at. https://milwaukee.craigslist.org/mcy/6161958013.html

Invest $2000.00-$3500.00 into this one and you would have an FJ that you would be proud to park next to your H2, and in the end you will have a smile on your face and a fatter wallet to take the wife out for dinner a few times.


Fred

[Country Joe]

Another nit: the bolts holding the lower fairing on are also not original.

Unless you're looking for a museum piece, save your money and continue looking for a more reasonably priced FJ.

As nice as that '84 is, I'd MUCH rather have my '85 with 60Kmiles and all the suspension and wheel upgrades in place.  

There are good deals to be had if you are willing to wait.  Right Joe Berk?

DavidR.

Absolutely correct!  
I would certainly be looking for a later model, primarily due to the stronger shift forks, a 17" front wheel and the rubber mounted motor of the 3XW. I think the trapezoidal headlight of the 3XW also throws a better beam than the square headlight, but that could be debated.

Joe

[Tor-King]

Rusty,
Pat, Fred and David have each posted SOUND advice.  Whether you buy an FJ for $500 or one for $8000, they will both require upgrades and replacement parts.  In my opinion, I would rather buy one very reasonable and then put some money into it.  My latest acquisition cost me $700 CAD and then I put in another $1000.  I went through the bike from stem to stern and I know what I have...

Dean

[Pat Conlon]

THAT ^^^ is what I'm talking about!  You scored Dean!