toasted rectifier and other woes

[thich]

i have a 1989 fj1200 with about 35,000 miles

while hunting down a charging issue, i discovered that the rectifier had burnt up. i also noticed that the PO had replaced the regulator with a newer version. my question is, since the rectifier was good when he replaced the regulator (i assume he would have noticed the the bad rectifier), is it safe to replace it, or is there something else thats amiss that will fry another rectifier? i have (mostly) checked all the wires and connections associated with the charging system, and all look fine. i did discover that the alternator o-ring was broken and poorly patched with sillycone. is it possible some oil got to the outside half of the alt. and caused the rectifier to grenade?

next
while out on a shakedown i stopped to fuel up. as i do on my other bike, i reset the odometer..... not today. the button does nothing, it also just pulls right out with little resistance. there is a slender metal rod with notches and an index on the end attached. I've looked fairly hard for any info, but I'm coming up empty handed. do i need to bust into the speedo assembly? is it a broken cable? speedo and tach both work fine.

next
bike won't go into gear without stalling (just started happening one day). if i ease it into first, it chatters until i stomp in into gear, where, it stalls. i checked the lever for excessive wear...all good. i checked the fluid level....all good. i took the clutch assembly apart to see if everything was p to snuff...it was. so, the only thing i can think of is that there is air in the line. i got rebuild kits for the master and slave just to be sure they aren't the culprits. is there something something i could be missing? crush washers on the banjo? oil change (doing that this weekend)?

next
since you're still reading. ill be doing the fork seals too, cuz one is weeping. any advice, tips, tricks?

[balky1]

Just on the clutch - try to bleed it, adding fresh fluid in the process.

[FJmonkey]

Picking up on NEXT

The trip reset shaft should not pull out. Time to fix/replace.

NEXT again

There is safety engineered into the FJ. If the side stand switch is faulty or the wires damaged it will kill the ignition electrically when shifted into gear.  Does the bike lurch forward and stall? Or just clunk and quit?

[thich]

Picking up on NEXT

The trip reset shaft should not pull out. Time to fix/replace.

NEXT again

There is safety engineered into the FJ. If the side stand switch is faulty or the wires damaged it will kill the ignition electrically when shifted into gear.  Does the bike lurch forward and stall? Or just clunk and quit?

im having some trouble finding much info on how to do that or where to get the parts. all i find is the speedo cable and the odometer button

aaaah, yes. i forgot to mention that i checked that switch. i bypassed it and had the same results. it lurches and stalls

[FJmonkey]

The speedo is no longer available from Yamaha. You will have to source a used one or get clever and fix what you have, or replace with an alternate product. A few members here have installed after market speedos with good results. http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=16670.msg169069#msg169069

[Pat Conlon]

You can send in your speedo cluster for service and repair.
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=5718.0
Cost me $75 for a complete rebuild....they even painted my needles!

They do prefer that you not open up the speedo....

Regarding toasted rectifier:

A bit of history: With the 1984 FJ1100, Yamaha introduced a narrow inline 4 engine (I-4) by taking the generator and placing it behind the cylinder block. Previous I-4 designs had the generator inline with the crank, hanging off the side of the engine, which was no big deal for the smaller displacement 750/900cc Honda/Kawasaki engines but as displacement increased, the I-4 engines became wider.
Good news: By using this innovative design, Yamaha shaved ~4" off the width of the engine.
Bad news: The generator and voltage regulator (VR) are now in a hot environment which causes the solid state VR to go wacky. FJ's are notorious for overcharging due to faulty VR's. Batteries boil dry, the infamous Red Plug melts, light bulbs burn out, all kinds of shit happens.
It does not surprise me that it would cook the rectifier. (Yes, I know the rectifier is upstream from the VR)

My recommendation is to replace the rectifier and remove the VR and install an adjustable Bosch IB301A VR remotely mounted in an area away from heat and vibration.
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=661.0

Also check with the field wire running to the generator. If it loses continuity the generator goes into full tilt boogie mode.

Hope this helps. Report back with what you find.  Cheers Pat.

[thich]

You can send in your speedo cluster for service and repair.
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=5718.0
Cost me $75 for a complete rebuild....they even painted my needles!

They do prefer that you not open up the speedo....

Regarding toasted rectifier:

A bit of history: With the 1984 FJ1100, Yamaha introduced a narrow inline 4 engine (I-4) by taking the generator and placing it behind the cylinder block. Previous I-4 designs had the generator inline with the crank, hanging off the side of the engine, which was no big deal for the smaller displacement 750/900cc Honda/Kawasaki engines but as displacement increased, the I-4 engines became wider.
Good news: By using this innovative design, Yamaha shaved ~4" off the width of the engine.
Bad news: The generator and voltage regulator (VR) are now in a hot environment which causes the solid state VR to go wacky. FJ's are notorious for overcharging due to faulty VR's. Batteries boil dry, the infamous Red Plug melts, light bulbs burn out, all kinds of shit happens.
It does not surprise me that it would cook the rectifier. (Yes, I know the rectifier is upstream from the VR)

My recommendation is to replace the rectifier and remove the VR and install an adjustable Bosch IB301A VR remotely mounted in an area away from heat and vibration.
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=661.0

Also check with the field wire running to the generator. If it loses continuity the generator goes into full tilt boogie mode.

Hope this helps. Report back with what you find.  Cheers Pat.

ok.......im on it. I've got some work ahead of me and parts to order, so it may take me some time to get back here

thank you Pat

[simi_ed]

I had my speedo rebuilt & calibrated by Forign Speedo back in 2015. It was more like $130, and I was not 100% satisfied with the results. The speedo still has some 'swing' where it oscillates around the speed, but only between 50-75 mph. In all fairness I never made an effort to have them take another whack at it since it is such a PITA to remove and ship out.
I guess I could do that now, since I can't ride anyway ...

[markmartin]

ill be doing the fork seals too, cuz one is weeping. any advice, tips, tricks?

http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=1911.msg15142#msg15142

The attachment on this thread is about installing cartridge emulators, but it also shows how to replace the fork seals.

Mark

[Mark Olson]

On the lurching when going into gear ... did you check the clutch switch on the lever by the master cylinder? 

[thich]

On the lurching when going into gear ... did you check the clutch switch on the lever by the master cylinder? 

i did not. how do i ensure that its working properly, or not working, for that matter?

[thich]

I had my speedo rebuilt & calibrated by Forign Speedo back in 2015. It was more like $130, and I was not 100% satisfied with the results. The speedo still has some 'swing' where it oscillates around the speed, but only between 50-75 mph. In all fairness I never made an effort to have them take another whack at it since it is such a PITA to remove and ship out.
I guess I could do that now, since I can't ride anyway ...

good to know. since the speedo works i may just deal with it for now. i can always log miles with gps and dig into the cluster over the winter

[thich]

ill be doing the fork seals too, cuz one is weeping. any advice, tips, tricks?

http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=1911.msg15142#msg15142

The attachment on this thread is about installing cartridge emulators, but it also shows how to replace the fork seals.

Mark

dang!! just the seals for now. i wanna ride

[racerrad8]

dang!! just the seals for now. i wanna ride

Then just change them for now. You still have to drop the forks. You just have to carefully remove the wiper seal, snap ring and then the fork seal. Replace the seal, snap ring and wiper. Then you need to refill them to the proper oil level and you are ready to ride.

Here are a couple of options of fork seals. I, and most everyone else, recommend staying away from anything on eBay.

Here is the Yamaha NOK brand seals that seem to last the longest.

I put the All Balls fork seal kit in stock a little more than a year ago. We have sold 17 sets to date and I have not heard a word one way or the other.

Randy - RPM

[thich]

thank you Randy
i have already spent a few $$ on your site.....fork kit included. still need more parts as i dig into this ol girl, so you'll be getting a good chunk o change from me over the years