RPM fork valve and spring fitting

[ELIMINATOR]

Had the parts for nearly two years. not been able to fit them for various reasons. I was going to do it this weekend, but, I'm struggling with the instructions.

Specifically how to cut the spacer to the correct length by measuring various depths.

This is EXACTLY how it is written.
3) Set the fork cap/spring preload adjuster to a middle setting.

4) Measure the thickness of the cap from the seat point for the top of the fork tube to be bottom of the factory disc/ washer.

Is this the dimension from the shoulder of the fork cap ( where is sits on the fork tube) to thebottom end of the fork cap. Which I assume is variable by adjustment of the spring reload, and subject to manufacturing limits.  I understand that this needs to be set to mid limit.

[racerrad8]

Here is a photo of the measurement of the cap & washer you are looking for.

Sent you an email as well.

Randy - RPM

[ELIMINATOR]

Not quite as good as your drawing. LOL

Thank you

[racerrad8]

I am a starving young artist... I guess i'll be waiting on my 2,000,000 (cash only please) I can even print it on canvas if you would like.

Robert - RPM

[Sparky84]

Wouldn't this measurement be the same for several models?
and couldn't there be a measurement in the instructions for certain models?


Cheers Alan

[racerrad8]

Yes, between model years ('84-90 are all the same and 91+ have a different measurement than the '84-'90) In the directions there is a listed average. However, due to manufacturing tolerances of the caps, washers, dampening adjusters, etc. there are slight differences in the actual measurement.

Robert - RPM

[ELIMINATOR]

Young

[ELIMINATOR]

Drained the oil from the forks, although it was last changed about four years ago, so was relatively new. I still poured some more fork oil through to flush them a bit.

Now put 1/2 a litre of Motul light 5 oil in each leg, amused by the statement to "cycle up and down to remove any trapped air" As the sump has a trolley jack under the sump, this is a slow process, keep imagining the the bike is going to roll off of the main stand.

I removed my RPM fork brace, as it looked as it might hit when the forks were fully compressed.

Surprised to see how high the oil level is in the forks, when they're fully compressed, made me read the instructions yet again! The level before putting the fork valve in is 1 3/4". So there will be a lot of oil to suck out, yet, the instructions mention either adding or removing oil!

The old self doubt is creeping in!

Jacked the bike up and down about 6 times, still a few bubbles coming out.

[ELIMINATOR]

e mailed Randy, very quick reply ( thanks mate). It was just me being phobic, job completed. Not ridden it yet, other jobs to do

[ELIMINATOR]

The Jury returns!

The bike no longer crashes over bumps!

But, there is a down side.

Ridden down my favourite road.

All is not well!!!!!!!!!!

I can now take bends quicker, as the bike just feels more secure.

One place in particular has my car "tramping" on a downhill negative camber bend,  my BMW 1150GS can cope with this, the FJ didn't bounce like it normally does.

So, all in all, I am a happy bunny, put the RPM bar risers on as well, another improvement.

[Sparky84]

So ELIMINATOR you didn't even take the forks off the bike?

How much pressure was there when you took off the cap? and what was it like putting it back on?

Were they as easy to install as the instructions say?

Cheers Alan

[FJ1100mjk]

There really isn't all that much force pushing back on the caps, if your front wheel is off the ground, when taking the caps off, or installing them.

[Pat Conlon]

Alan, (for me) it's hard to get a accurate measurement on the level of the fork oil when the forks are installed (at an angle)

You can r/r the springs with the forks installed as long as that front tire is off the ground and the forks fully extended. There are some funny stories about folks taking the fork caps off while the bike's weight was still on the front end. Kinda like starting the engine with the clutch slave off.....

[Sparky84]

I've got a head stand so front will be off the ground with forks fully extended.
I will be taking off front wheel for replacing tyre so not much more trouble taking forks out to measure levels with forks in upright position Pat.

Front wheel on the ground taking cap off,  ouch.

Looks straight forward,
anybody got any other tips?

Just have to sort the rear out then!

Cheers Alan

[FJ_Hooligan]

Take a half full bottle of water and hold it with your thumb and index finger in the middle of the bottle at the water line.

Now, tilt the bottle.  What do you see?  Until you get to extreme angles, the level of the water from the top of the bottle will pivot at the center of the bottle and remains the same for a wide range of angles.

The forks are only slightly tilted and narrow so measuring the level will be perfectly fine with them installed.  This is definitely not rocket science.