Clutch Replacement / Upgrade Time

[FJ1200W]

Cleaned up the clutch picture a bit.



As most of you know, the clutch is a cake walk on these machines.

No real issues at all. Everything came apart easily.

The wire was kind of stuck in pretty well and try as I might, I could not remove it in pristine condition, but it was not going back in anyway.

The fiber plates all looked good and were within spec.

The metals all looked good, a couple had some signs of being overheated but not cooked, for sure.

Magnets pulled the final little spacers out, new plates went in without drama.

Barnett spring conversion, the same.

I had the issue of now being able to easily find the bolt torque for the clutch cover, and I estimated 10 ft/lb so I was on the border of blowing it.

Performance, perfect. Clutch pull might provide slightly more exercise, no complaints here.

Nice to have that slip free performance back.

Thanks for the support everyone

[Pat Conlon]

Good job Steve Question: Can I  use your colored diagram over in the clutch files?

If that's ok with you, would you import it over into the gallery?

Cheers

[FJ1200W]

Good job Steve Question: Can I  use your colored diagram over in the clutch files?

If that's ok with you, would you import it over into the gallery?

Cheers

No worries - It's in the gallery now

http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=10440

[MOTOMYSZOR]

I want remove this narrow clutch plate in my FJ as well...
Because I need only one clutch plate I found this one on eBay: http://www.ebay.ie/itm/Yamaha-Clutch-plate-XS650-XS1-XS1100-FJ1200-1300-341-16321-09-/182493932244?hash=item2a7d7c6ad4:g:hQgAAOSwTM5YzRlr

Part number is different but I manage to find out, that part is recommended for FJ-s as well. Someone can confirm that?

And just in case question: should I drain oil from engine before I start?

[Firehawk068]

In most cases, you can park the bike leaned over on the side stand and remove the clutch cover without dumping oil out.
How old is your oil? Maybe change it while you are in there.

Whatever you do, don't install the new clutch disc dry. Make sure you thoroughly soak it in Motorcycle oil.
Soak it overnight at least, or for a couple days if you have the time to do so.

I would get a new clutch cover gasket.
They sometimes can be reused, but it is a very fragile gasket and is easily damaged.

[MOTOMYSZOR]

I swapped last clutch plate today for bigger one. Easy job.

But after change, clutch jerking, when the clutch catches on low rpms..... especially when I take off slowly..... after that all is perfect.....

All clutch elements are in great condition, clutch disc was soaked in oil for 3 days......

Maybe it is normal on beginning?

[Mark Olson]

I swapped last clutch plate today for bigger one. Easy job.

But after change, clutch jerking, when the clutch catches on low rpms..... especially when I take off slowly..... after that all is perfect.....

All clutch elements are in great condition, clutch disc was soaked in oil for 3 days......

Maybe it is normal on beginning?

Yes , normal with the new disc. ... start off in 2nd gear a few times and it will clear up.

[ribbert]

I swapped last clutch plate today for bigger one. Easy job.

But after change, clutch jerking, when the clutch catches on low rpms..... especially when I take off slowly..... after that all is perfect.....

All clutch elements are in great condition, clutch disc was soaked in oil for 3 days......

Maybe it is normal on beginning?

I also got clutch chatter after removing the anti chatter spring (who would have thought that). 100k later and it's still there and has not diminished at all.

As you say, slightly higher revs while feeding the clutch out overcome it but it's a bit too high for me. I'd rather the chatter than sound like a learner 

You get used to it (if yours doesn't go away)

Noel

[FJmonkey]

I changed the narrow friction for the full size and did not notice any chatter issues. I changed the entire clutch so all the frictions and steels were new.

[Flynt]

I'd try doubling up the spring...  both '84 and '92 have the anti chatter spring out and wider plate in with no chatter at all.  I hate chatter, but I did the spring to stop slipping that happened for me with a well tuned stock engine WOT above 6krpm.  On Wizard (~160 rwhp), the stock clutch with double spring holds tight.  Stronger spring will reduce/stop chatter as well in my experience.

Frank

[Mark Olson]

Make sure you have your idle set above 1k rpm or it will chatter and lug for sure .

I know the FJ has a lot of torque but don't ride it like a diesel and be in 3rd before you are out of the intersection.  The engine comes to life at 6k.

[X-Ray]

Sorry for adding to an older thread, but.... my '93 1200s clutch is not slipping, but I have noticed that the lever action is getting very "soft", clutch still disengages fine, but then the take up when releasing the lever is virtually straight away if you get what I am describing. This believe it or not is still the original clutch pack (up to 138000kms), and I'm thinking maybe the clutch spring plate may be getting a bit tired?

With our rally coming up in May, I might treat the '93 to a new RPM clutch pack with new spring. It certainly feels very different to the original clutch on the '94 which has only done 61000 kms. 

[ribbert]

Sorry for adding to an older thread, but.... my '93 1200s clutch is not slipping, but I have noticed that the lever action is getting very "soft", clutch still disengages fine, but then the take up when releasing the lever is virtually straight away if you get what I am describing. This believe it or not is still the original clutch pack (up to 138000kms), and I'm thinking maybe the clutch spring plate may be getting a bit tired?

With our rally coming up in May, I might treat the '93 to a new RPM clutch pack with new spring. It certainly feels very different to the original clutch on the '94 which has only done 61000 kms. 

Ray, regardless of what's going on with your clutch (and I'm not silly enough to suggest anything ), the take up point coming closer to the bars is most commonly a lack of fluid, not wear. The hydraulics self-adjust for wear, just like your brake lever doesn't get closer to the bars as the pads wear.
138k is good for a wet clutch, I have 267k having only ever replaced one set of fibres. I bought a new spring a long time ago to conduct some experiments, the last of which saw the original left in the bike, not on purpose, that was just the sequence, so that too is the original.
Clutch slip is progressive, if you reckon it's not slipping now, no reason to think it suddenly will. It's also relevant to load so the higher the gear, the higher the revs, the higher the throttle input, the more likely it is to slip.
Find somewhere you can pull 8-9k rpm at WOT in say 4th gear, if it holds tight there, you good to go. If it doesn't, it's getting tired but could still last years with modest riding.

Noel

[X-Ray]

Thanks Noel. I have bled the system I thought properly when I put a new seal kit in the slave last year, but the fluid level is right, may still be a touch of air in the system. But definatley no slipping, might just do a full brake and clutch fluid change and recheck the results. 

[oldktmdude]

   G'day Ray, I know this suggestion may not be appreciated by everyone (Noel) but try tying your clutch lever back to the bar with a cable tie overnight.
Report back with your findings. Your might get a pleasant surprise. I know it has worked well for me on numerous occasions.
   Regards, Pete.