Clutch Replacement / Upgrade Time

[FJ1200W]

First, I honestly tried the search tool, and I had no luck.

Moving on -

My FJ1200W's clutch has slipped a bit, and it's time to fix it.

With 47,000 miles, it can't be the stock clutch, but who knows.

1st, I'm considering the Barnett coil conversion (511-90-10001) rather than 2 stock diaphragm springs - pro's/con's one way or another? If Barnett, are the standard springs enough or should I order the HD springs (501-82-06023) as well?

2nd, metal plates - I think I'm going to go ahead and replace all the metal plates with OEM Yamaha pieces. Do I need to order seven 2H7-16325-00-00 or six and one 2H7-16325-00-00??? Wait - Never mind, I did not even check the part numbers, they're the same - Seven it is.  



3rd, fiber plates, I'm again leaning towards OEM Yamaha, but swear I read somewhere about ditching the insider "thinner" plate (36Y-16331-00-00) and "wire retainer" (2H7-16385-00-00) and replacing it with a full plate (341-16321-13-00) - but leaving one thin one at the front. Do I need one 36Y-16331-00-00 and seven 341-16321-13-00?

And any words of wisdom or links on what I should plan on encountering. It's been several years since I've "done a clutch". Do I need anything else, already have the gasket, maybe a lock washer (90215-25218-00) or do I even have to remove that nut?

Much appreciated in advance,

Steve

[racerrad8]

Here is everything you need.

RPM Yamaha Clutch Pack: This is the clutch pack to eliminate the thin inner friction disc, the cushioning spring, wear plate and wire retainer.

I also have a stock Yamaha OEM Clutch Pack for those who want to leave in the dampening spring.

Here are the Yamaha Steel Floater Discs. You will need seven (7)

I also stock the Barnett Pressure Plate Conversion.

Don't forget the clutch cover gasket.

And one more thing, while you are in there, a little deeper and you can install the RPM Roller Shift Detent Kit.

Everything you need is on the shelf and ready to ship. In fact if you will have it for the weekend if you order it by tomorrow.

For a full write up check out the clutch files: Clutch slipping? Look here.

Randy - RPM

[FJ1200W]

Great information - Sounds like an inspection is in order to see what is actually needed.

Every good metal plate saves a little gas money

Much appreciated!

[red]

Great information - Sounds like an inspection is in order to see what is actually needed.  Every good metal plate saves a little gas money  Much appreciated!

FJ1200W,

Keep in mind the prices for the entire clutch packs.  Replacing single plates only can get you close to or over the price of the entire clutch pack new, sometimes.  You should ask about discounts on the prices, as well.  The worst they can say is No. 

Cheers,
Red

[Bill_Rockoff]

With 47,000 miles, it can't be the stock clutch, but who knows....And any words of wisdom or links on what I should plan on encountering. It's been several years since I've "done a clutch". Do I need anything else, already have the gasket, maybe a lock washer (90215-25218-00) or do I even have to remove that nut?

Much appreciated in advance,

Steve

Mine began slipping after, I think, ~80,000 miles of Atlanta traffic, including a lot of stop and go and a lot of time in carpool lines at elementary and middle schools.

I can't remember if the nut has to come off or not, I think so. It was a pretty easy job, and with the bike on the sidestand I didn't even have to drain the oil, I just pulled the brake pedal and side cover off the RH side. I think it was half an hour, clean hands to clean hands.

Have fun.

[axiom-r]

I will mention that I thought I had a slipping clutch on my 92'.  I replaced all the plates and used two diaphragm springs because I don't mind the tougher lever pull.  All the plates coming out appeared to be fine - no glazing, not worn beyond tolerances etc.....  the steels were all perfectly flat on glass.

Come to find out I have a TACHOMETER issue where the tach climbs up sometimes a thousand RPMs or so - seemingly at random.  I ALWAYS read this needle movement as a slipping clutch.  Then the Tach really went bad and it now reads roughly double the actual RPM. 

I wont go any further on this thread as to not hijack it (I'll start another) - but be sure your clutch is the culprit before you just jump to rebuilding it.  The stock clutch will take a ton of abuse and mileage before new plates and spring are needed.

Cheers!

tim

[FJ1200W]

Here is everything you need.

RPM Yamaha Clutch Pack: This is the clutch pack to eliminate the thin inner friction disc, the cushioning spring, wear plate and wire retainer.

I also have a stock Yamaha OEM Clutch Pack for those who want to leave in the dampening spring.

Here are the Yamaha Steel Floater Discs. You will need seven (7)

I also stock the Barnett Pressure Plate Conversion.

Don't forget the clutch cover gasket.

And one more thing, while you are in there, a little deeper and you can install the RPM Roller Shift Detent Kit.

Everything you need is on the shelf and ready to ship. In fact if you will have it for the weekend if you order it by tomorrow.

For a full write up check out the clutch files: Clutch slipping? Look here.

Randy - RPM

I just placed my order, thank you.

Two orders were placed, on the first I failed to order enough steel plates.

I may of overpaid, if you can ship all together and save on shipping costs, please do.

Many thanks!

Steve

[FJ1200W]

I will mention that I thought I had a slipping clutch on my 92'.  I replaced all the plates and used two diaphragm springs because I don't mind the tougher lever pull.  All the plates coming out appeared to be fine - no glazing, not worn beyond tolerances etc.....  the steels were all perfectly flat on glass.

Come to find out I have a TACHOMETER issue where the tach climbs up sometimes a thousand RPMs or so - seemingly at random.  I ALWAYS read this needle movement as a slipping clutch.  Then the Tach really went bad and it now reads roughly double the actual RPM. 

I wont go any further on this thread as to not hijack it (I'll start another) - but be sure your clutch is the culprit before you just jump to rebuilding it.  The stock clutch will take a ton of abuse and mileage before new plates and spring are needed.

Cheers!

tim

It's the clutch -

The bikes been to the drag strip "a couple" of times

Thanks for mentioning the tach issue, good info

[racerrad8]

Yes, the shipping should be cheaper combined than the separate orders.

Robert will take care of it in the morning.

Randy - RPM

[FJ1200W]

Great information - Sounds like an inspection is in order to see what is actually needed.  Every good metal plate saves a little gas money  Much appreciated!

FJ1200W,

Keep in mind the prices for the entire clutch packs.  Replacing single plates only can get you close to or over the price of the entire clutch pack new, sometimes.  You should ask about discounts on the prices, as well.  The worst they can say is No. 

Cheers,
Red

I don't like asking for a discount, I see value in what Randy brings to the forum.

That being said - fool me once, shame on you, fool me twice, shame on me.

I work at a dealership and could of ordered all the parts at "cost plus 10" but, as mentioned, I appreciate what RPM does.

If after reviewing the order I feel like I did not get the value I paid for, I'll use an alternate supply chain next time.

No harm no foul, life goes on.

[FJ1200W]

Yes, the shipping should be cheaper combined than the separate orders.

Robert will take care of it in the morning.

Randy - RPM

Excellent, thank you

[ribbert]

.....With 47,000 miles, it can't be the stock clutch...........

I swear, this old chestnut, "FJ's have weak clutches" will out live me.

This snippet of misinformation has been circulating on the forum (and only this forum) forever and has not one iota of evidence to back it up.

So, you got 80,000kms out of the original unit, clutches are a consumeable, just like brake pads and tyres, and 80k just happens to be the most quoted life expectancy of a motorbike clutch. This can vary greatly of course depending on use, abuse, oil choice and oil change frequency but subject to normal operation this is considered to be normal life expectancy.

I have noted with interest over the years every member who has ever asked the question of the forum about a slipping clutch, and told to measure them, has reported back that they are in spec. The steels are undamaged and if they had the means of testing the spring, they would find it has lost an insignificant amount of pressure, not enough to make the clutch slip though.

The clutch relies on two things to transfer drive from the engine to the gearbox, friction and clamping force. So what have we got? The spring has sufficient load and the plates are in spec, that leaves friction.
Fibre plates are porous and operate in engine oil. Over time, crud carried in the oil impregnates the plates, reducing friction.
A new set of fibres has the been the standard fix for slipping wet clutches since Adam was a boy and continues to be the case to this day.

You can fix it two ways, a bandaid fix, increase the spring load with a second spring (or a coil spring conversion) and mask the problem or replace the fibres and fix the problem.
As for the posts "I have the notorious weak OEM clutch problem, it has started slipping at 100k" - Of course it is, it's knackered and needs replacing! .....and it lasted the first 100k, didn't it?

Maybe someone out there with industry experience could offer an opinion.

IMO

Noel

Can we have a talking to yourself emoji?

Just out of interest, those that have fitted 14mm clutch M/C's to lighten he pull, doesn't that make the take up stroke longer?

[jscgdunn]

"I swear, this old chestnut, "FJ's have weak clutches" will out live me.

This snippet of misinformation has been circulating on the forum (and only this forum) forever and has not one iota of evidence to back it up."

I understand this comes fro the use of the FJ as a drag bike.  As compared to big Suzuki's of the same era, the FJ clutch is not a durable.   For intended use (ie sport touring) I expect it is more than enough.

Jeff

[FJ1200W]

So many variables in the life of a clutch.

In 2003 or 2004 I took my 919 to the local 1/8 mile track on a "test and tune" night, and found the track nearly to myself.

Over 30 passed were made that night, poor bike was abused hard and it never would break the ton in the eighth.

The bike had 24,000 miles on it by then, and I had to replace the clutch very soon after that night.





That was a fun night......

[FJ1200W]

Diagram used on another forum to explain what stays and what goes -

Regarding the plate swap -

Removing the items in red (Items #4, #5, #6 & #8) and replacing them with one of the full size blue plate (#9).

The "thin" front plate (highlighted in green, #11, also the same part number are the red one being removed) remains.