2nd Ignitor Box in 5 Years?

[Seanextra]

Just sharing an issue i had with my FJ1200 3CV after a good week of fault diagnosis i concluded the IGNITOR Box was the only possible cause and once i sourced a replacement the bike fired instantly.

The fault/problems started from random hard starting but usually the bike ran perfectly, after parking the bike for some 4 months it fired after alot of winding over i then warmed the bike up on choke and parked the bike, the next day i tried to start the bike again but this time no matter what i tried the bike was dead apart from the odd massive back fire this was while very low on fuel reserve switch had been deployed. I had a plug out to help diagnose the spark issue and found that turning the kill switch on and off quickly resulted in a random spark firing the source of the massive backfires!

This would probably not be an unusual situation but this is the second CDI ( Ignitor Box ) in about 5 years and the last one terminated the worn motor by backfiring so hard it skipped teeth on the worn out timing chain.

My concern is what component could be destroying the Ignitor boxes? bad connections? bad earths? Ive tried to overcome all these by replacing cleaning and adding new earths.

Has anyone else been down this road?

[PaulG]

The only issue I've had with the CDI was a few summers ago.  Under wet/damp conditions my tach read double the rpm's it should. Other than that the bike ran fine.

I checked the connectors at the coils and found a bit of oxidation on them. After cleaning them it still read double.  I then pulled the connector from the CDI  and saw the same oxidation so I pulled out the CDI  itself.  I cleaned them with contact cleaner, emory cloth, even those small jeweler files. Then I lubed it up with electrolytic grease (and every other connector in the harness I could get my hands on). The issue was resolved but did reoccur the next summer. Did it again and haven't had an issue in a couple of yrs now.

I don't have a garage or shed to store it, though it is always under a cover. It was just the damp/humidity affecting the connection I surmised.

Questions

- are all your fairing bolts/connectors secure? If any are missing the fairing will get quite a buzz. That may cause it to fail eventually.

- was your replacement CDI new or used?

- is your system overcharging? Could this burn out a CDI? (actually that question is more for myself...)

Good luck tracing it. And if you find an answer please post it. Cheers 

[FJmonkey]

I seem to recall that they crack allowing internal corrosion or shorting when wet. Inspect the bad one with a sharp eye for defects. Once they crack its like letting the smoke out.

[JPaganel]

My concern is what component could be destroying the Ignitor boxes? bad connections? bad earths? Ive tried to overcome all these by replacing cleaning and adding new earths.

My bet would be time and environment.

You have a piece of electronics that has spent almost 30 years strapped to a hot, vibrating machine, in all kinds of weather. Heating /cooling cycles and vibration are about the worst thing you can subject electronics to.

I have had the occasion to replace an ignition box on my XJ550. I chose a brand new one from Ignitech rather than another 30 year old potentially clapped out box.

Only had to do it once.

[aviationfred]

You might considering investing in a Dynatek Dyna 2000.

I had the opportunity to pick up a NOS Vance & Hines PowerPak a year ago or so. I already had a PowerPak on the '89 and really didn't need it. I couldn't pass it up.
I carry the OEM CDI/igniter box that was on the '89 as a spare on long rides.



Fred

[Seanextra]

I am thinking about sending my bad Ignitor Box into this company is in USA and Australia i believe that repairs them and seeing if it makes a difference and then keeping the replacement one as a backup https://www.carmo.nl/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=497_514_2129_2910&language=en

Anyone every had one repaired by these guys or can lead me to another repairer?

I did own a DYNA2000 for the FJ but sold it with my dragbike build and all the other parts (including a few OEM Ignitor boxes) I might have to go Dyna system if i cant get a reliable OEM Box.

[JPaganel]

I am thinking about sending my bad Ignitor Box into this company is in USA and Australia i believe that repairs them and seeing if it makes a difference and then keeping the replacement one as a backup https://www.carmo.nl/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=497_514_2129_2910&language=en

Anyone every had one repaired by these guys or can lead me to another repairer?

I did own a DYNA2000 for the FJ but sold it with my dragbike build and all the other parts (including a few OEM Ignitor boxes) I might have to go Dyna system if i cant get a reliable OEM Box.

The site you link to says it's in Netherlands.

I have repaired them myself. It cost me pennies in new transistors and a bunch of time. I would not pay 180 Euros and (likely outrageous) shipping only to have the original 30 year old box.

For the money these guys are charging, you are better off with a new replacement.


Try these guys:

http://hyperpak.co.nz/ - they are actually closer to you.

http://www.ignitech.cz/en/vyrobky/tcip/tcip.htm - this is something I actually bought and use. Works great.

[Pat Conlon]

....My bet would be time and environment.....

My bet would be....long term exposure to chronic over voltage.

The same thing that's taking out the Dyna modules.

Charging voltages in excess of 15+ volts can not be good for solid state components, let alone batteries.

Just a hunch

[Sparky84]

My bet would be....long term exposure to chronic over voltage.

So is the fix "Ricks ND Internal Regulator" or is it periodic maintenance of checking charging voltage while idling and revving at around 4000rpm?

For memory mine was about 13.1 & 14.5 volts using a uncalibrated (but its pretty close) digital multimeter

I have been through a few batteries though!

So of the Dyna Modules that have been "Taken Out" were the voltages checked on these bikes afterwards or prior?

[Pat Conlon]

I am not a fan of internal voltage regulators (VR). It is a bad design. The safest enviroment for the VR is away from the engine heat and vibration.


The (voltage adjustable) Transpo IB301A VR mounted under my side panel is the best solution IMHO
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=661.0

Checking the voltage output of my charging system was deceiving. When I checked my output was 14.8 volts, which is fine according to the GYSM....but something happens after the engine gets heat soaked on long hot weather rides. The internal VR goes wacky and passes thru 15.4+ volts which will boil your wet cell battery dry and will ruin an AGM battery....and as *I suspect*, shorten the life Igniter box (or Dyna).

Again, just a hunch.....