Welch plug removal

[1fasteffjay]

Just removed my welch plugs on my carburetors (brass caps over the pilot adjustment screw) When I first saw them I couldn't figure out how in the heck they were going to come out.

So I referred to this youtube video: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=wAXcksgvDkM

I have never run into these before and I was glad to remove them without wrecking the pilot screws.

[Tor-King]

WOW!  Are you trying to tell me that after all these years no one has gone in and frigged around with these carbs??  That is an interesting and rare find!
Dean

[1fasteffjay]

WOW!  Are you trying to tell me that after all these years no one has gone in and frigged around with these carbs??  That is an interesting and rare find!
Dean

I know right!? 70,000 miles and they were never touched! Pretty cool.

[bigbore2]

Randy [RPM] sells little plastic plugs to replace those.

[Earl Svorks]

   While I have removed more than a few of those little plugs, I did not know they were called
  "Welch " caps. They are shaped just like "Winkler "caps I'd say.
  The video linked to the OP advised caution when drilling through this plug. I feel the speaker missed
the point there, in that the risk is not so much in scuffing the slot in the brass screw as much as the twist drill, if used without a stopper (tape is inadequate) will often get caught when drilling through
thin material. When it does it will drive the bit into the screw and drive the screw to the bottom of it's bore and wedge the pointy end very tightly into the little hole in the carb . This can be a disaster for the
guy who has to get it out and not destroy the carb.

   Cheers
  Simon

[FJmonkey]

Sounds like a job for left hand drill bits....

[Pat Conlon]

Left hand or right hand twist, makes no difference. The caps are press fit and the cap metal is hard.
Simon is correct. A metal depth collar on the drill bit is the safe way.

[1fasteffjay]

   While I have removed more than a few of those little plugs, I did not know they were called
  "Welch " caps. They are shaped just like "Winkler "caps I'd say.
  The video linked to the OP advised caution when drilling through this plug. I feel the speaker missed
the point there, in that the risk is not so much in scuffing the slot in the brass screw as much as the twist drill, if used without a stopper (tape is inadequate) will often get caught when drilling through
thin material. When it does it will drive the bit into the screw and drive the screw to the bottom of it's bore and wedge the pointy end very tightly into the little hole in the carb . This can be a disaster for the
guy who has to get it out and not destroy the carb.

   Cheers
  Simon

Dang.... Never even thought of that happening. Could you share a picture of what this stopper or device you are describing looks like?

Thanks for the responses!!

[FJmonkey]

My thought is the LH bit will attempt to spin the adjusting screw out in the event the bit dives too deep, VS. driving it in. Just Monkey wrenching logic...

[Earl Svorks]

  Jamie,
The drill stop is just a tube , made of any decent material, reasonably strong that is a decent fit around the drill in question. You can use tape around this and the chuck to prevent the tube from dropping off. It will bear up against the chuck when it meets the work piece. The drill being longer than the spacer. The amount of drill protruding equals the depth of the hole you wish to bore.
Picture a rigid chopper with the fender about an inch above the tire. You need to drill a couple of .250" holes for the sissy bar. The drill has about 3" protruding from the chuck. Your beat up drill is not very sharp, you are pushing hard trying to get the thing to drill through,, , , that was a new tire.
   Cheers
   Simon

  Saddle sore? You need a sheepskin. I left Scarborough on a Sunday morning on the FJ I still own and had supper Tuesday evening at home in Vancouver Two 1000 mile days one 600 mile.Had two decent motel sleeps along the way, and no tickets! I was 41