Power but no start

[Paris]

Hey guys

I have a 1988 (ish) FJ1200 that is not starting, Easiest way to describe the fault is it is like trying to start it with the kick stand down. There is power, lights go on but nothing happens when i hit the start button.

Iv checked all the fuses, and obvious cut out switches, clutch, kick stand etc
iv tested the starter by wiring the starter switch to the frame and the motor turns over.
in the above condition there is no spark

Can anyone think of anything i might have overlooked? Im certain its an electrical fault but have no idea where to start looking.

[Urban_Legend]

I just had this very same issue.  Turned out to be the ignition plate at the crank. I had a bolt come loose and it was shorting out the pickups.  Not a bad place to start.

Mark

[Paris]

Hey mark,

Shot for the reply.....but what is an ignition plate exactly...or more importantly, where do i find it?

[aviationfred]

Hey mark,

Shot for the reply.....but what is an ignition plate exactly...or more importantly, where do i find it?

I believe Mark is referring to the ignition pick-up and rotor, that is in the following photo. Check that the screws/bolts #4 and #5 are tight.



The location is behind the left forward crankcase cover. #5 in the following drawing.



Hope this helps.

Fred

[Sparky84]

The location is behind the left forward crankcase cover. #5 in the following drawing.



Hope this helps.

Fred
[/quote]

I'm hoping you mean #1 in the following drawing Fred

Cheers Alan

[aviationfred]

Alan,

Yes, you are correct.

Fred

[Urban_Legend]

Thanks Fred and Alan. I can never remember the correct name for that part. Like I always get the pilot and main jets mixed up.

Mark

[Firehawk068]

Ignition plate issue would not keep the engine from cranking over.

I would start with the kill-switch on the handlebar.  Those have been known to give issues similar to what Paris is describing.
Cycle it a few times, and see if it cranks then. If not, it might need to be taken apart and cleaned.

That's where I would start looking.

[FJ_Hooligan]

If there's no spark, then I would suspect one of the nanny switches is not in a correct state.

I haven't studied the diagram in a long time but I recall that these switches interrupt the starting circuit and the ignition ground(?).

Is the neutral light working?

[Earl Svorks]

Hey Paris,
The pull in winding in the starter solenoid gets ignition voltage from the battery lead on the solenoid. The circuit to ground goes through the cutoff relay and then through the button. This relay must be closed for the starter to work. Ignition voltage closes that relay. You can trace that circuit from either end. You could start by opening  the bullet connector by the solenoid , then ground the end that connects to the solenoid, the motor should crank.If it doesn't, that points to the solenoid. If it does, then with the key on, test for a circuit to ground through the other end of the connector when you push the starter button. If you don't find ground , I suggest, like Hooligan, you go to the handlebar switch to look at it's internals. The switch itself needs to be grounded. All you need here is a little test light savvy.
    Patience, perseverance and a half pound of butter.
     Simon

[Paris]

Shot for all the replies guys.

The problem was the kill switch. took a good bit of hair pulling to find the problem but once it was stripped and cleaned out everything seems to work.

[Firehawk068]

Glad you found the solution.
Thanks for posting back up that you found the issue.

[R0B]

Hi all. I know this is an old thread, but rather than start another I thought it might be better to continue this one.

Stopped at a petrol station today. Put the sidestand down and turned off the ignition with the key. The bike wouldn't start when I came to set off. The fuel and oil lights illuminated when I pressed the ignition switch. Ended up calling the breakdown service.

In a nutshell I shorted the starter solonoid, and the bike started and drove fine.

checked side stand switch cutout...works fine, clutch cut out switch, again fine, handle on/off switch no problem and ignition switch works ok. There appears to be a solid state relay that switches the solonoid...........I couldn't find any power to or from that.........

any ideas please?.

[R0B]

I've managed to fix it. Turned out it was the neutral switch connection block. The neutral switch was working, but I unplugged it and bridged the terminal block, at which point the bike started normally. There was light aluminium corrosion on the terminals, which I cleaned off and applied electrical grease. There was a small nick in one of the the wires leading to the plug (looked like someone had tapped in for a switched power source). I cut and rejoined this wire. Bike is now starting normally...just a little confused as to why the switch h worked, but the bike didn't start?.

Anyway, all's well that ends well.

[Sparky84]

I've managed to fix it. Turned out it was the neutral switch connection block. The neutral switch was working, but I unplugged it and bridged the terminal block, at which point the bike started normally. There was light aluminium corrosion on the terminals, which I cleaned off and applied electrical grease. There was a small nick in one of the the wires leading to the plug (looked like someone had tapped in for a switched power source). I cut and rejoined this wire. Bike is now starting normally...just a little confused as to why the switch h worked, but the bike didn't start?.

Anyway, all's well that ends well.

Excellent find there Rob, good to hear you are running again