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T Rex Bimota YB5

Started by stua1959, September 29, 2016, 06:49:05 AM

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ribbert

Quote from: oldktmdude on October 01, 2016, 09:41:23 PM
Quote from: gumby302ho on October 01, 2016, 03:14:59 PM

  Any idea of the loss of hp at the crank through the drive? I could guess maybe 35hp

According to the dyno technician that did mine, a loss of around 18% is not uncommon at the back wheel.

Pete, wouldn't the loss at the back wheel be a constant, not a percentage?

Noel
"Tell a wise man something he doesn't know and he'll thank you, tell a fool something he doesn't know and he'll abuse you"

giantkiller

I was thinking the same thing. If you have a 10hp motor you wouldn't lose much. But those turbo guys must have a brake locked up.
86 fj1350r
86 fj1380t turbo drag toy (soon)
87 fj1200 865 miles crashed for parts
89 fj1200 touring 2up
87 fzr1000 crashed
87 fzr750r Human Race teams world endurance champion
93 fzr600 Vance n hines ltd for sale
Custom chopper I built
Mini chopper I built for my daughter just like the big 1

Bill_Rockoff

Quote from: ribbert on October 02, 2016, 07:49:29 AMwouldn't the loss at the back wheel be a constant, not a percentage?
No, the more you put into a mechanical system that has friction losses, the more you lose. I can't think of a way to build something that always needs a fixed amount of power to move. A fixed amount of FORCE, maybe, but the faster you apply that force, the more power it is.

If you had a system with a constant loss of, say, 10 hp, you wouldn't be able to move it at all with a 10 hp motor. I'm having trouble even picturing a thing you couldn't budge with a 10 hp motor.  That's a motorcycle that you and half a dozen friends couldn't push, because each of you makes maybe 1 hp max.

But on a normal actual system of parts, if you put in a little power, you lose a little and get the rest out; if you put in more power, you lose more.

18% is pretty typical for a rear-wheel-drive car with a manual transmission. You lose a bit in the transmission gears, a bit more than that in the rear diff, and a little in the drive-shaft and half-shaft's CV joints. A solid-axle car does a little better because there are no half-shafts. A transverse-engine car, like most front-wheel-drive setups or like a mid-engine transverse car, does a little better than that because there's no 90-degree change of rotation in the diff, all the shafts rotate in parallel axes. A typical torque-converter automatic does a little worse. A motorcycle with a chain or belt drive does better (I've read "15%" but a shaft drive is back to 18% or more, depending on whether its driveshaft has a 90-degree gearset at each end or just at one (longitudinal crankshaft like a Honda ST or a Moto Guzzi or a boxer BMW.)
Reg Pridmore yelled at me once


ribbert

Quote from: Bill_Rockoff on October 02, 2016, 09:10:50 AM
No, the more you put into a mechanical system that has friction losses, the more you lose....

True, but is the increased loss proportional to the increased power?

Noel
"Tell a wise man something he doesn't know and he'll thank you, tell a fool something he doesn't know and he'll abuse you"

Pat Conlon

Quote from: giantkiller on October 02, 2016, 06:18:53 AM
So Pat has the 1380 cured the oil consumption problem?  And I don't remember what happened to cause the rebuild?

The top end coked up from excessive oil. I had the 82mm Hank Scott Prolite short skirt pistons.
I decided to change course and use the conventional Ross 83mm long skirt pistons.
All is well since.
1) Free Owners Manual download: https://tinyurl.com/fmsz7hk9
2) Don't store your FJ with E10 fuel https://tinyurl.com/3cjrfct5
3) Replace your old stock rubber brake lines.
4) Important items for the '84-87 FJ's:
Safety wire: https://tinyurl.com/99zp8ufh
Fuel line: https://tinyurl.com/bdff9bf3

oldktmdude

Quote from: Bill_Rockoff on October 02, 2016, 09:10:50 AM
Quote from: ribbert on October 02, 2016, 07:49:29 AMwouldn't the loss at the back wheel be a constant, not a percentage?
No, the more you put into a mechanical system that has friction losses, the more you lose. I can't think of a way to build something that always needs a fixed amount of power to move. A fixed amount of FORCE, maybe, but the faster you apply that force, the more power it is.

If you had a system with a constant loss of, say, 10 hp, you wouldn't be able to move it at all with a 10 hp motor. I'm having trouble even picturing a thing you couldn't budge with a 10 hp motor.  That's a motorcycle that you and half a dozen friends couldn't push, because each of you makes maybe 1 hp max.

But on a normal actual system of parts, if you put in a little power, you lose a little and get the rest out; if you put in more power, you lose more.

18% is pretty typical for a rear-wheel-drive car with a manual transmission. You lose a bit in the transmission gears, a bit more than that in the rear diff, and a little in the drive-shaft and half-shaft's CV joints. A solid-axle car does a little better because there are no half-shafts. A transverse-engine car, like most front-wheel-drive setups or like a mid-engine transverse car, does a little better than that because there's no 90-degree change of rotation in the diff, all the shafts rotate in parallel axes. A typical torque-converter automatic does a little worse. A motorcycle with a chain or belt drive does better (I've read "15%" but a shaft drive is back to 18% or more, depending on whether its driveshaft has a 90-degree gearset at each end or just at one (longitudinal crankshaft like a Honda ST or a Moto Guzzi or a boxer BMW.)
Thanks for your answer Bill. That's what my reply would have been but you have explained it far better than I could have. Every dyno figure that I have seen, always quotes the rear wheel hp loss as a percentage. During the first dyno run that I did, my drive chain had a tight spot in it and this showed up as a intermittent loss of around 5 to 8 hp. Just shows how  relatively small changes in friction values can effect the output figures.   
   Regards, Pete.
1985 FJ1100 x2 (1 sold)
2009 TDM 900
1980 Kawasaki Z1R Mk11 (sold and still regretting it)
1979 Kawasaki Z650 (sold)
1985 Suzuki GSXR 400 x2 (next project)
2001 KTM 520 exc (sold)
2004 GasGas Ec300
1981 Honda CB 900 F (sold)
1989 Kawasaki GPX 600 Adventure

giantkiller

Quote from: Pat Conlon on October 02, 2016, 11:18:16 AM
Quote from: giantkiller on October 02, 2016, 06:18:53 AM
So Pat has the 1380 cured the oil consumption problem?  And I don't remember what happened to cause the rebuild?

The top end coked up from excessive oil. I had the 82mm Hank Scott Prolite short skirt pistons.
I decided to change course and use the conventional Ross 83mm long skirt pistons.
All is well since.
I have an APE block and a Wisco block (cylinders). I can't remember I think one was 1380 and one was 1450? I've had them for while. Was thinking of using the Ross pistons. And seeing if Randy might want to build me a couple of monster motors. In a couple of years If I can gather enough money.
86 fj1350r
86 fj1380t turbo drag toy (soon)
87 fj1200 865 miles crashed for parts
89 fj1200 touring 2up
87 fzr1000 crashed
87 fzr750r Human Race teams world endurance champion
93 fzr600 Vance n hines ltd for sale
Custom chopper I built
Mini chopper I built for my daughter just like the big 1

Flynt

Quote from: ribbert on October 02, 2016, 07:49:29 AM
wouldn't the loss at the back wheel be a constant, not a percentage?

doesn't make sense...  let's say it is a constant 15 HP.  Would the bike make negative Hp below the "drivetrain loss" Hp of say 15Hp?  It is, of course, a percentage.  It is not truly linear however... but that's beyond the scope of this discussion.

Frank
There's plenty of time for sleep in the grave...