Help needed please! Fuel leak

[casper]

Hi guys!

I need help please.  My 1100 Ambulance is pissing fuel out of all 4 carbs overflows if I have taken her over 6000Rmp.

I have now even went so far as to install a in-line fuel tap to stop her from leaking an entire tank of fuel onto my garage floor. Cos, yes, she leaks fuel aswell on standing.

I have stripped the carbs maybe 10 times, re-synced them, and set the float bowls to perfection. I really don't know anymore!

I reckon the petcock suction valve membrane is no longer doing its job, but the inline fuel tap will take over this part, but as far as the leaking is concerned I am out of ideas!

Please assist me.

Living in South Africa does really not make parts availability much easier or cheaper either!

[giantkiller]

Sounds like you need Randy's carb rebuild kits. Needles and orings at least. Be sure to keep an eye on the oil level. If they are leaking that bad can fill your crank case with gas in a short time.

[casper]

Thanks yes I am keeping my eye on that. Maybe I should have a look at that yes, do you know if Randy and them ship to SA?

Can you give me a link to the stuff I need?

[balky1]

OK Casper,

Randy most certainly has all you need, but for shipping you will need to contact him directly.
Let's start with the petcock. You need a nice rebuild kit with a new diaphragm. Unfortunately RPM doesn't sell it as I can see. NRP Carbs from UK have it, unfortunately without the diaphragm. RPM has this: http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3AXJRPetcockKit&cat=34
I don't think any of the rubber will fit FJ petcock, but diaphragm looks like it might be correct, contact Randy for this or disassemble yours and see by the picture.
Furthermore, carb leaking problem:

• check if the floats still float in fuel after you remove them from carbs
• check needle rubber tips for wear; if you think they are OK, buy this: http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Carb%3ANeedleSeatO-Ring; if not, buy this: http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Carb%3AFloatValveG&cat=39 (I assume it is gravity fed since you mentioned petcock)

Floats can be found in RPM also, if needed.

Shipping will probably be considerable. You can try www.wemoto.com and www.biketeile-service.de, but I also don't know anything about shipping to RSA.

Keep shutting the fuel off when not riding to prevent hydrolocking the engine with catastrophic results. Even if the oil level seems pretty much OK, that doesn't mean cylinder isn't full with fuel.

Ivan

[FJmonkey]

To add what has been posted. The float needles and seats alone should stop the flow of fuel from the tank to the carbs. So there is a failure there. You say all 4 are leaking, not very common. It is common to get crud in one or two but all 4 at once? Makes me ask if any work has recently been done on the carbs? If the floats were adjusted improperly then I could see how all 4 leaking at the same time.

The petcock is the second line of defense. The floats and needles will only drain the carbs to a certain level. If no more fuel is coming in then the leak will stop till more fuel is added. The petcock is easy to test, pull the fuel line off the carbs and see if it leaks into a container. While you are at it do the "Suck Test". Pull the vacuum line to the petcock from the intake manifold and suck on it. Fuel should flow. If the vacuum line and petcock are in good condition, sucking on it will feel like a sucking on a straw that is clamped off, you can't suck anymore air out. If you can keep sucking air out then you have leak that could cause starvation issues (Not the same as this leak). With this simple process you can eliminate more precisely where you problem is and if the petcock is working properly for zero cost.

[racerrad8]

Casper as Ivan has already mentioned, I have everything you need in stock.

There is a not a fuel tap (petcock) rebuild kit that is available for the FJ1100 or FJ1200 that I have ever been able to find to date. The NRP kit is advertised to be the proper kit, but it does not have all of the proper o-rings and does not include the diaphragm.

The petcock kit I sell for the XJR1300 is not the correct parts for the FJ petcocks either. I wish it was I could have sold 1000's of them.

I have brand new, properly safety wired petcocks in stock: 84-85 Yamaha Fuel Tank Petcock

Not sure if you have replaced the o-rings on the brass needle seats yet.

I have the o-rings just for those: Needle Seat O-Ring Set
A full o-ring kit for the complete carb bank: FJ11-12/XJ12/XJR13 O-Ring Carburetor Kit
Or the s/s screw & o-ring kit: FJ11-12/XJ12/XJR13 S/S Screw & O-Ring Carburetor Kit

I also have the needles and seats in both O.E. Yamaha or aftermarket.

Needle & Seat Assy (2.3) (Gravity) OEM Yamaha
Needle & Seat Assy (2.3) (Gravity)

Yes, I ship worldwide, so SA is not problem. You might actually be surprise at the low cost of 1st class international shipping.

You can click on the links provided above of go to the top of the page and click on the RPM banner ad there.

Randy - RPM

[balky1]

Casper as Ivan has already mentioned, I have everything you need in stock.

There is a not a fuel tap (petcock) rebuild kit that is available for the FJ1100 or FJ1200 that I have ever been able to find to date. The NRP kit is advertised to be the proper kit, but it does not have all of the proper o-rings and does not include the diaphragm.

Randy,

I've repaired my petcock with NRP's kit. It has all the O-rings and "behind the lever rubber" needed, I just had problems with the O-ring that goes on the plunger. It leaked for some reason but the O-ring itself looked perfectly good and correct dimensions. I bought that O-ring in a store near me in the end.
It doesn't have the diaphragm, that is correct, unfortunately. But if it is not torn, the diaphragm shouldn't be the issue (Casper, you'll know if the diaphragm is OK when you do the suction test).
I can see that your XJR's kit O-rings won't fit, but that diaphragm looks the right shape like the FJ's. Probably then the holes on it don't fit, Randy?
Ivan

[racerrad8]

Randy,

I've repaired my petcock with NRP's kit. It has all the O-rings and "behind the lever rubber" needed, I just had problems with the O-ring that goes on the plunger. It leaked for some reason but the O-ring itself looked perfectly good and correct dimensions. I bought that O-ring in a store near me in the end.
It doesn't have the diaphragm, that is correct, unfortunately. But if it is not torn, the diaphragm shouldn't be the issue (Casper, you'll know if the diaphragm is OK when you do the suction test).
I can see that your XJR's kit O-rings won't fit, but that diaphragm looks the right shape like the FJ's. Probably then the holes on it don't fit, Randy?
Ivan

Ivan,

I recalled several posts after you installed the kit, you had to buy a different o-ring to get your petcock to seal. I did not know why you had to get an o-ring, just the recollection you had to purchase an additional o-ring to get it to seal.

The seal that is behind the lever is very common in many manual style petcocks. That is the same in both the FJ1100 & XJR1300 petcock.

The XJR diaphragm looks the same but is different. I have not paid much attention of late, but I seem to recall the diagram being physically larger and the plunger was also a different length.

Randy - RPM

[movenon]

Also adding to what Ivan said.   Make sure the floats are parallel and they do not touch or rub the side or sides of the fuel bowls (it happens).  Sounds like the needle, seats and small O rings need to be replaced.  For information here is the O ring size that I use.  Viton metric O-ring 7.1 x 1.6mm  but as you probably need the needle and seats also.  I would order it all from Randy.  Leaking fuel can cause major problems from fire, tracking it on the rear tire, if bad enough filling the crankcase with gas.

George

[MarcB]

Hi guys I'm new to the FJ world. I recently bought an 85 FJ1100 and thus whole forum thing. I'm hoping someone van help me with a fuel line question. The nipple on the fuel cock drops down tottaly vertical. Because of this the fuel line turns 90 degrees to the right and is kinked. The bike runs ok but it seem like it's going to be chocked for fuel. From all the pictures I've seen the nipple is turned to the right. I's this piece adjustable? It looks like it may swivel but I wanted to find out for sure before I force it and break it.

[FJmonkey]

Hi guys I'm new to the FJ world. I recently bought an 85 FJ1100 and thus whole forum thing. I'm hoping someone van help me with a fuel line question. The nipple on the fuel cock drops down tottaly vertical. Because of this the fuel line turns 90 degrees to the right and is kinked. The bike runs ok but it seem like it's going to be chocked for fuel. From all the pictures I've seen the nipple is turned to the right. I's this piece adjustable? It looks like it may swivel but I wanted to find out for sure before I force it and break it.

That elbow nipple has caused fires and total loss of bike. It is pressed in and once loose it is a real fire hazard. I used a fuel safe epoxy and safety wire on my old petcock till it wore out. Then I got a new one already wired by from RPM (see banner add at top). http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=3251.0

And welcome to our asylum...

[MarcB]

Thanks! That's a huge help. It does look like some sort of epoxy was applied at some point wich is part of the reason I didn't want to mess with it. Bike bandit has a new one for $145 plus 11 for the gasket. I'm going to check out rpm now. Thanks again!

[FJmonkey]

Thanks! That's a huge help. It does look like some sort of epoxy was applied at some point wich is part of the reason I didn't want to mess with it. Bike bandit has a new one for $145 plus 11 for the gasket. I'm going to check out rpm now. Thanks again!

Please find the introduction section and tell us a bit more about you and your FJ.

[balky1]

Did anyone ever tried to weld that elbow back? Is it aluminum or something else?

[balky1]

Randy,

I've repaired my petcock with NRP's kit. It has all the O-rings and "behind the lever rubber" needed, I just had problems with the O-ring that goes on the plunger. It leaked for some reason but the O-ring itself looked perfectly good and correct dimensions. I bought that O-ring in a store near me in the end.
It doesn't have the diaphragm, that is correct, unfortunately. But if it is not torn, the diaphragm shouldn't be the issue (Casper, you'll know if the diaphragm is OK when you do the suction test).
I can see that your XJR's kit O-rings won't fit, but that diaphragm looks the right shape like the FJ's. Probably then the holes on it don't fit, Randy?
Ivan

Ahhh, those petcocks... 
Yes, I wrote it again here, that smallest O-ring didn't seal for some reason, but that one isn't problematic to get locally here, at least. All other rubber pieces were very good and helpful. My petcock leaked even on the lever and the one between tank and petcock was toast also.
Sooo, it is a solution to some point at least. Maybe there is something wrong with my petcock and that's the reason why the smallest one didn't seal. I told them about the problem, also. Until someone else tries it, we won't know. 

Ivan,

I recalled several posts after you installed the kit, you had to buy a different o-ring to get your petcock to seal. I did not know why you had to get an o-ring, just the recollection you had to purchase an additional o-ring to get it to seal.

The seal that is behind the lever is very common in many manual style petcocks. That is the same in both the FJ1100 & XJR1300 petcock.

The XJR diaphragm looks the same but is different. I have not paid much attention of late, but I seem to recall the diagram being physically larger and the plunger was also a different length.

Randy - RPM