Valves clearances

[Shane4371]

Thank you

[racerrad8]

.004" is not the low side of the intake valve clearance. That is too tight.

Randy - RPM

[FJmonkey]

.004" is not the low side of the intake valve clearance. That is too tight.

Randy - RPM

.004 inches is .109 MM. Max gap is .15 MM or .0059, I try not to go tighter than .13 MM or .0051. Remember tight is bad, go loose, valves tend to get tighter with use.

[racerrad8]

.004" is not the low side of the intake valve clearance. That is too tight.

Randy - RPM

.004 inches is .109 MM. Max gap is .15 MM or .0059, I try not to go tighter than .13 MM or .0051. Remember tight is bad, go loose, valves tend to get tighter with use.

So I just want to confirm; because I am tired, I don't have my GYSM or my feeler gauge right in front of me. I need to know if I have been doing it wrong for all of these years.

.004" (.109 MM) is too tight for the intake clearance, correct?

If that is the case and the range is .005" - .006" (0.11~0.15mm) for the intake side, why would you ever set the lash at the minimum clearance setting?

They only get tighter, so now you have adjusted to the minimum number provided by Yamaha and when there is wear you are now to tight.n A better choice is always going to be .006~.007 to allow for wear.

I just want to make sure I am not providing the incorrect information.

Randy - RPM

[FJmonkey]

So I just want to confirm; because I am tired, I don't have my GYSM or my feeler gauge right in front of me. I need to know if I have been doing it wrong for all of these years.

.004" (.109 MM) is too tight for the intake clearance, correct?

If that is the case and the range is .005" - .006" (0.11~0.15mm) for the intake side, why would you ever set the lash at the minimum clearance setting?

They only get tighter, so now you have adjusted to the minimum number provided by Yamaha and when there is wear you are now to tight.n A better choice is always going to be .006~.007 to allow for wear.

I just want to make sure I am not providing the incorrect information.

Randy - RPM

Yes on the account of .004 as too tight. And loose is better than tight so .006 is a much better choice (measured in inches). If all you have is a valve that provides .007, then that works as well. I have done it, the valve might tap a little but it won't be tight (or open) when it should be closed.

[Shane4371]

270 is the intake shims,2 intake are at .004 tight so I orderd 2-272 shims correct?

[Shane4371]

.004" is not the low side of the intake valve clearance. That is too tight. Low side is my reference to the gap between cam lobe and shim..007 is a gap a lot use for intake clearance,they will run with that ?

Randy - RPM

[ct7088]

When the measurement is less than the minimum the replacement shim must be thinner. 2.70 minus .02 you want a 2.68  -- a better choice is to run the valve at the maximum gap because the gap always gets tighter -- a 2.65 shim would be  the better choice

[Shane4371]

Thank you,I was wrong I ordered a thicker shim,so the 265 shims I'll remove from my exhaust side may work?

[Tuneforkfreak]

Well now I can see why it would be nice to have the shim kit at hand while doing these adjustments. Not that I'm scared to to do it, but If I had a place like RPM around me, I'd prolly just take this task to them and relieve myself of the confusing dyslexic mathematics. My bike is nearing 10,000 miles so I'm not sure what mileage I should start considering checking the valves? 

[jscgdunn]

Yes use the 265 shim...In general I have found that if (for example) a 270 is tight, just put in a 265.  Kind of a short cut method but it keeps it simple. 

Jeff

[Shane4371]

Its very intimidating,the shim tool is hard to use gotta be just right or it won't hold the  bucket down or the bucket will slip off the tool and pop up scary,I took my bike down for a week and checked rechecked read a lot,you also gotta get your can lobes in a exact location in order to get a conaistant reading.its time consuming but I've got it down now and a $700 estimate to have it done else were was worth the procedure learned

[FJ1100mjk]

its time consuming but I've got it down now and a $700 estimate to have it done else were was worth the procedure learned

Yep. You were lucky to have a shop even quote you. A lot of dealerships won't touch old bikes. $700, seems high, but shop rates are up there now with car dealership service rates.

Anybody that ventures into the world of 30 year old bikes, better know their way around a toolbox and have the wherewithal to keep them on the road, or their ownership will not be long-lived.

People here (and the other social media site you post at  ), are a great resource for these bikes to keep them on the road, and make you happy. 

[Shane4371]

AMEN BROTHA!!

[racerrad8]

... relieve myself of the confusing dyslexic mathematics.

There really are no mathematics required. Yamaha has already done all of that. The GYSM and every Haynes FJ Manual, I have seen there is a chart.

You measure the clearance, you remove the shim. You go to the chart, find the measured clearance, slide your finger over to the shim thickness remove. The point where the two intersect on the chart is the proper replacement shim.

I never guess when adjusting, I refer to the chart 99% of the time.

Randy - RPM