A bit of a cleanup (down under)

[FJools]

Alan,

Yes, 4mm², as there is a fair bit of load which equates to heat / volt drop through small diameter copper cables and the connections so any help here is not to be sniffed at in my opinion.
2.5mm² would probably do, but since I will be running lights, ignition and ancillary USB sockets from this supply it sort of makes sense, plus I have the cable in the workshop!

As for the night riding - isn't it the best time to be out there ? (cooler, no cars - watch those Roo's and Wombats though)

Jools

[Pat Conlon]

Cool beans Jools....Check to make sure that the 12v current in that brown wire doesn't shut off when the starter is engaged.

Report back....you will notice the added voltage to your coils, absolutely.

Cheers

Hi Pat
I've not studied the circuit diagram in any great detail as yet but would imagine that the start button feeds off that brown switched live otherwise you could hit the starter with the ignition off.....

What I'm saying is that there are some circuits that are interrupted (e.g. headlight) when you engage the starter.
If you power your coil relay off this type of circuit, your bike won't start.

[FJools]

Thanks Pat, I wasn't aware of that. I will need to study the diagram in depth, but maybe switch the ignition relay from the orange or grey coil feed wire instead. Just a bit more thought required.

I'm thinking of something from this range mounted under the fairing at the front.....

https://www.swe-check.com.au/pages/product_list_product/11/34/158/1043

[Sparky84]

Cool beans Jools....Check to make sure that the 12v current in that brown wire doesn't shut off when the starter is engaged.

Report back....you will notice the added voltage to your coils, absolutely.

Cheers

Hi Pat
I've not studied the circuit diagram in any great detail as yet but would imagine that the start button feeds off that brown switched live otherwise you could hit the starter with the ignition off.....

What I'm saying is that there are some circuits that are interrupted (e.g. headlight) when you engage the starter.
If you power your coil relay off this type of circuit, your bike won't start.

Any Reason you can't use the original coil supply as the control for your distribution panel?

Cheers Alan

[Pat Conlon]

You can, but I'm not sure I would want to....Depending on the accessories load on the new distribution panel, you may want those switched off while the starter is engaged (just like the headlight)
If you use the existing coil circuit for control of the new distribution panel, that (obviously) does not shut off when the starter is used.
You are safe using the existing coil power lead to control just the new coil relay, that's common.
Personally, I would keep the distribution panel with all the new accessory loads, on a circuit that is interrupted when starting. There's a reason why Yamaha designed the system to disconnect load on the battery when the starter is used.

[Sparky84]

You can, but I'm not sure I would want to....Depending on the accessories load on the new distribution panel, you may want those switched off while the starter is engaged (just like the headlight)

Yes that would be wise but on my 84 lights aren't automatically ON until I switch them ON.
Not sure what else is on while starting, but I have used the parker switch to operate other relays to turn on supply to GPS and USB supplies usually after the bike has warmed up ready to ride.
So maybe a combination of both, not sure what is on yours Jools

Cheers Alan

[ribbert]

... you may want those switched off while the starter is engaged (just like the headlight)

....on a circuit that is interrupted when starting. There's a reason why Yamaha designed the system to disconnect load on the battery when the starter is used.

Pat, are you sure about that? I have never seen that function on an FJ (and can't recall seeing it on anything else of that era)

Jools, I would wonder about the wisdom of placing the fuse panel behind the fairing. Things happen and you don't want to turn a 2 sec job into a fairing removal should you need to check/change the fuses. It also gets hot enough under there to fry an egg on a hot day in traffic in Sydney.

Applying the KISS principle, I avoided the wiring diagram, placed the box in the tail, ran 12v direct from the battery (fused as close as possible to the battery) then from the box to the relays and used the original wires as triggers. My whole bike runs on 3 relays with components grouped and piggy backed.

I like the look of the box you linked, I wish I had found one like it before buying mine

Box in tail section...





Wiring run to the front in semi rigid, high temp, self closing fibreglass conduit (from Jaycar)





HID components mounted behind headlight..





This what happens over time when you keep adding accessories one at a time (I was only about half done here, it got even worse than this before I redid it all)



As the wiring is not colour coded, I keep a legend on my phone should I need to trouble shoot it, which I have not had to do thank goodness!

IMO

Noel

[Pat Conlon]

... you may want those switched off while the starter is engaged (just like the headlight)

....on a circuit that is interrupted when starting. There's a reason why Yamaha designed the system to disconnect load on the battery when the starter is used.

Pat, are you sure about that? I have never seen that function on an FJ (and can't recall seeing it on anything else of that era)

On the USA bikes my headlight is on all the time when my ignition key is on....although it shuts off when I engage the starter. The starter relay drops the light circuit out.
I know there are differences between the USA and other FJ's, e.g. Side stand switch, flash to pass, manual on/off headlight controls, etc.... Noel, try this...turn your key on, turn on your headlight now start the engine....does your headlight go out when the starter is engaged? I'm curious.   Cheers Pat

[FJools]

Noel,

I am thinking of making the fuses accessible via the "ash tray" as I never use this. The fact that the relays need to be close to the circuits they are switching to negate volt drop dictates this really, so under that side with a heat shield of sorts should be sufficient - lets face it the rest of the electrics including the CDI is under there.....
What i am trying to avoid is having to disconnect a myriad of wires when removing the fairing so it has to be frame mounted really.

If I use the tail section where will I put my sarnies ?

[Sparky84]

If I use the tail section where will I put my sarnies ?

In a jaffle iron across your headers with bogged beans in em

Had to look up what a sarnie was
It's just a plain old sambo,

[Mike Ramos]

Noel,

I am thinking of making the fuses accessible via the "ash tray" as I never use this. The fact that the relays need to be close to the circuits they are switching to negate volt drop dictates this really, so under that side with a heat shield of sorts should be sufficient - lets face it the rest of the electrics including the CDI is under there.....
What i am trying to avoid is having to disconnect a myriad of wires when removing the fairing so it has to be frame mounted really.

If I use the tail section where will I put my sarnies ?

FJools,

The "ash tray" is where I have my accessroy fuse/distribution block located.  I removed the tray itself so when you open the door, the fuses are right in front of you for easy access.  Eastern Beaver, Fuzeblock, Twisted Throttle & others are noted however I utulize the Cenetech unit because the fuses are not covered and easily accesible - in fact the fuses that are installed light up should they ever blow for quick ID.  Also, the unit is rated for 60 amps which readily handles the amps needed. 

The main relay to power the panel is located behind the left side panel for easy access.

I should add that the panel itself is attached to a thick nylon piece that is held in place by the fairing hold down bolt.

After quite a few years and many miles, it has worked well.

Re: the tail section - that is where the tool kit, tire patch kit & CO2 cartridges are stored.

Ride safe,

Midget

[ribbert]

Noel, try this...turn your key on, turn on your headlight now start the engine....does your headlight go out when the starter is engaged? I'm curious.   Cheers Pat

Pat, I know humour can be a fickle thing on the net but I'll assume you were not being serious.

Noel

[Pat Conlon]

... you may want those switched off while the starter is engaged (just like the headlight)

....on a circuit that is interrupted when starting. There's a reason why Yamaha designed the system to disconnect load on the battery when the starter is used.

Pat, are you sure about that? I have never seen that function on an FJ (and can't recall seeing it on anything else of that era)

Pat, I know humour can be a fickle thing on the net but I'll assume you were not being serious.

Oh, ok, so you were kidding (you got me).... I have been surprised before on the differences between FJ's from different regions.
With your manual on/off controls on the headlight, it would not surprise me if you did not have the headlight interrupt in the starting mode.

Move along folks....nothing to see here...

[TexasDave]

Noel,

I am thinking of making the fuses accessible via the "ash tray" as I never use this. The fact that the relays need to be close to the circuits they are switching to negate volt drop dictates this really, so under that side with a heat shield of sorts should be sufficient - lets face it the rest of the electrics including the CDI is under there.....
What i am trying to avoid is having to disconnect a myriad of wires when removing the fairing so it has to be frame mounted really.

If I use the tail section where will I put my sarnies ?

The relays don't need to be close to the circuits they are switching to negate voltage drop. At the distances the wires have to run on a bike voltage drop from wire length is very very negligible. Put the relays anywhere it is convenient on the bike. Voltage drop from the battery to the coils is the result of passing through old dirty switches and bad connections. Using the original wires to activate the relay coil will work even with some voltage drop. Wiring direct from the battery to the relay and then to the coils with the relay mod means no lost voltage through the old circuit. A lot of the voltage drop on our bikes is through the  old and worn keyed main switch.  

Dave--old retired electrician    

[FJools]

Dave,

agreed, but I don't want "heaps" of extra copper running all over the place and less is more as they say and every break point creates resistance which will increase with age.
The relay contacts themselves will add to that eventually. The old operating switches used to switch the relays will handle far less current so as you say are will do fine.
So the convenient place for me is under the fairing.
I agree that the ignition switch can be a prime culprit for volt drop and mine is probably due for replacement as I have noticed it needs a positive flick on at times. Maybe a squirt of contact cleaner will help.