Bleed nipples and clutch slave reparation

[balky1]

Hi!

I've got two questions:

• Two days ago I've replaced the brake lines, bled the brakes, all fine and now I saw two of the nipples on the anti-dive and one on the calipers (as much as I can see) is leaking a bit. Anyone had similar problems? The ones on the A/D are made of brass, I am afraid to tighten them more because I could strip them.
• Something is leaking on my left engine side, over the oil filter housing. I thought it could be clutch so to check it I pumped it 20-30 times and removed the slave. I saw no leaks. Prob is that paint is already toast on that part of frame from bleeding before (P/O was very wise  ) so I can't figure out if it is the clutch fluid leaking or engine oil (no smell, viscous liquid, I'm stumped). Sides of the oil filter housing are dry, only the bottom of it gets "oily". I think the clutch fluid would flow on the sides of it to the bottom, right? Maybe that little screw for draining the oil filter housing started leaking? Anyone had that prob, to happen all of a sudden?  Nevertheless, I ordered the clutch slave repair kit and will repair it in the same time I change the clutch line for braided one I've got. So, aside from the leak, is it possible to just pump out the piston with the lever or I need to do it with compressor?

Thanks!

Ivan

[FJmonkey]

One option is to clean and de-grease really well. Take it for a ride. then toss talc or baby powder in the areas you saw wet before. The powder will work like finger print dust and show you more detail. The left side has many potential leak points. 1. CS sprocket seal. 2. Clutch push rod seal. 3. Shift shaft seal. 4. Starter (external o-ring). 5. Starter (internal o-ring). 6. Alternator (external o-ring). 7. Alternator (internal o-ring). 8. Oil filter cover (if still stock). 9. Oil filter cover drain screw (if still stock). Oil can also leak down from the valve cover so check that as well. That should get you started...

To get the piston out you can use either way. But if you use air, plan on how you will catch it when it pops out (A small bucket with rags worked for me). Pumping it out will just leak fluid once the seal is broken free.

[balky1]

One option is to clean and de-grease really well. Take it for a ride. then toss talc or baby powder in the areas you saw wet before. The powder will work like finger print dust and show you more detail. The left side has many potential leak points. 1. CS sprocket seal. 2. Clutch push rod seal. 3. Shift shaft seal. 4. Starter (external o-ring). 5. Starter (internal o-ring). 6. Alternator (external o-ring). 7. Alternator (internal o-ring). 8. Oil filter cover (if still stock). 9. Oil filter cover drain screw (if still stock). Oil can also leak down from the valve cover so check that as well. That should get you started...

To get the piston out you can use either way. But if you use air, plan on how you will catch it when it pops out (A small bucket with rags worked for me). Pumping it out will just leak fluid once the seal is broken free.

Thanks!

Baby powder, good idea! I already de-greased everything while changing chain and sprockets.

[balky1]

Is it normal that some fluid leaks through the threads on bleed nipples after bleeding? Of six I've been opening, three are giving me this slow leak. I shouldn't tighten them any further.
Anyone knows the dimensions so that I can buy new ones if I have to? Maybe M8 x 1.25mm?

[racerrad8]

A lot of time, the fluid that remains in the bleeder after it is closed can wick out and look like it is leaking. If the bleeder is staying full then they are leaking.

Randy - RPM

[balky1]

A lot of time, the fluid that remains in the bleeder after it is closed can wick out and look like it is leaking. If the bleeder is staying full then they are leaking.

Randy - RPM

No, just around it on the thread. Hole is empty. That OK?
I bled only cars till now and once I've finished I never looked back, but this is new to me. Since the nipple is on plain sight.

[Pat Conlon]

Teflon tape?

[racerrad8]

No, just around it on the thread. Hole is empty. That OK?
I bled only cars till now and once I've finished I never looked back, but this is new to me. Since the nipple is on plain sight.

If coming around the threads then they are leaking. Give them a little more of a nip with a 8mm box end wrench or socket.

Are you sure you AD bleaders are brass? I just went out to the bone yard and check several of the AD forks out there and the bleed nipples are steel.

I have new Yamaha bleed screw in stock: Yamaha Bleeder Screw Kit

Randy - RPM

[racerrad8]

Teflon tape?

Not required if the tapered seat of the bleeder is actually sealing.

It is useful for those trying to reverse bleed. It seals the threads since the bleeder is open and there is no seal.

Randy - RPM

[balky1]

Teflon tape?

I'm just gonna change them if it doesn't stop. Because, I need to remove them either way and bleed the system again so better to put new ones in if it comes to that.

[balky1]

No, just around it on the thread. Hole is empty. That OK?
I bled only cars till now and once I've finished I never looked back, but this is new to me. Since the nipple is on plain sight.

If coming around the threads then they are leaking. Give them a little more of a nip with a 8mm box end wrench or socket.

Are you sure you AD bleaders are brass? I just went out to the bone yard and check several of the AD forks out there and the bleed nipples are steel.

I have new Yamaha bleed screw in stock:Yamaha Bleeder Screw Kit

Randy - RPM

Yep, they are brass. Probably replaced already. Thanks Randy, but I can't wait for them to arrive from USA, sorry.  I can buy them in my local store.

[balky1]

No, just around it on the thread. Hole is empty. That OK?
I bled only cars till now and once I've finished I never looked back, but this is new to me. Since the nipple is on plain sight.

If coming around the threads then they are leaking. Give them a little more of a nip with a 8mm box end wrench or socket.

Are you sure you AD bleaders are brass? I just went out to the bone yard and check several of the AD forks out there and the bleed nipples are steel.

I have new Yamaha bleed screw in stock:Yamaha Bleeder Screw Kit

Randy - RPM

Yep, they are brass. Probably replaced already. Thanks Randy, but I can't wait for them to arrive from USA, sorry.  I can buy them in my local store.

I'm gonna order it Randy. 

[balky1]

No, just around it on the thread. Hole is empty. That OK?
I bled only cars till now and once I've finished I never looked back, but this is new to me. Since the nipple is on plain sight.

If coming around the threads then they are leaking. Give them a little more of a nip with a 8mm box end wrench or socket.

Are you sure you AD bleaders are brass? I just went out to the bone yard and check several of the AD forks out there and the bleed nipples are steel.

I have new Yamaha bleed screw in stock:Yamaha Bleeder Screw Kit

Randy - RPM

Yep, they are brass. Probably replaced already. Thanks Randy, but I can't wait for them to arrive from USA, sorry.  I can buy them in my local store.

I'm gonna order it Randy. 

A problem. First chechout shipping was cca. 14 bucks. Then I saw I didn't add all 7 of them, tried again and then the shipping was almost 50 dollars?!

[racerrad8]

A problem. First chechout shipping was cca. 14 bucks. Then I saw I didn't add all 7 of them, tried again and then the shipping was almost 50 dollars?!

Did you select first class the first time and then priority the second time? That would be the only reason of such a jump.

Randy - RPM

[balky1]

A problem. First chechout shipping was cca. 14 bucks. Then I saw I didn't add all 7 of them, tried again and then the shipping was almost 50 dollars?!

Did you select first class the first time and then priority the second time? That would be the only reason of such a jump.

Randy - RPM

Now first class is cca. 22 dollars. Hmmm, sorry Randy but this time I think I'm gonna check my few local stores first. Prices here are cca. 2-3 dollars for piece and it shouldn't be a problem to find it. Another thing - customs. Now I remembered it.
Sorry once again. Thanks a lot for the help.