Side panel posts

[JPaganel]

So, the new to me 93 has the little posts/pegs/mushroomy things busted off of the side panels.

What's the common fix for this? I'm sure it's not an unusual problem.

[FJmonkey]

Cut them off a donor part and weld it on. Don't glue it, every ABS part I glued on has broken off. Most bike wreckers will have plastics with the post you need. You will find that most makes and years are the same size.

[markmartin]

I've had good luck repairing and/or fabricating bodywork on the FJ with this product.

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/159189/(H)-GoofProof-T-88-16oz-Cart.aspx?gclid=CjwKEAjw_LG8BRDb1JTxm8uP_UwSJADu_8pWsNW-UCB7l9FH2WhKPhWoi7ALa4LiR1bdHjGJrqMWXhoCLXjw_wcB

System 3, T-88      2 part epoxy.

[aviationfred]

Unlike FJmonkey, I have had success with gluing posts and tabs on one of my side panels. They have not been on very long. Miles wise, they have survived two 700 mile trips and a 1100 mile ride, plus about another 1500 miles of daily short distance riding...


Fred

[movenon]

I also have one glued on and always worry about it but so far it has been holding (3 years).  I do how ever keep those posts lubricated with some light grease around the grommets and take care when removing the panels. I ease them out instead of jerking on them.

I also have 1 tab missing and someday I will salvage one off another panel. One of those "someday" things.    That one I will plastic weld on because it is a front post by the fuel tank and looks to be under more tension stress than the rear ones.
George

[giantkiller]

Or both I and my brother have used plastex to mold new tabs on. It comes with reusable molding rubber. (I don't know how to post a link.) Just go to their website and they show you how to make tabs on motorcycle plastic.

[ribbert]

I do a lot of these sort of repairs and imo butt joins, particularly when subject to load, remain a weak spot and where it will break next time, regardless of how good the glue is.

Bear in mind, you are only repairing it because it broke in the first place and did so in its strongest state, one piece.

What works best for me is dowelling them. Drill a hole into each part, use a length of threaded rod or a bolt or screw with the head cut off (depending on the diameter needed) and glue them together.

There are some fine points to doing this for the best results but that's the idea in principle.

For a missing tab I had planned on using threaded rod (as described above) with a nut for the flared part, bogging it up then sand to shape. I haven't tried this yet but can't see why it wouldn't work and the bog could also overlap the join for extra strength.

Noel

[ribbert]

Or both I and my brother have used plastex to mold new tabs on. It comes with reusable molding rubber. (I don't know how to post a link.) Just go to their website and they show you how to make tabs on motorcycle plastic.

That sounds promising Dan, although never having had success with these sort of products for that sort of job, if yours are lasting I'll give it a try.

How many miles since you made them (I assume you are talking about fabricating new tabs from scratch?)

Noel

[JPaganel]

I have had good results gluing with ABS plumbing glue, which is actually more solvent welding.

Thing is, I don't have the posts.

I sort of have half a mind to just drill a hole through the panel and to use some nylon panel fasteners

[ribbert]

I have had good results gluing with ABS plumbing glue, which is actually more solvent welding.

Thing is, I don't have the posts.

I sort of have half a mind to just drill a hole through the panel and to use some nylon panel fasteners

I've only had the front ones for years, the seat holds the rest in place.

Noel

[56 CHEVY]

How thick is the side panel where the post broke off?

Could you drill & tap it for a socket head cap screw or hex bolt?

Grind the head so it somewhat resembles the head on the pin that broke off.

Screw it in with glue or what ever to keep it in place.

Use that as the retaining pin.

The above may all be useless info but I thought I would throw it out there before you start drilling holes THROUGH your panels.

Dan

[giantkiller]

Or both I and my brother have used plastex to mold new tabs on. It comes with reusable molding rubber. (I don't know how to post a link.) Just go to their website and they show you how to make tabs on motorcycle plastic.

That sounds promising Dan, although never having had success with these sort of products for that sort of job, if yours are lasting I'll give it a try.

How many miles since you made them (I assume you are talking about fabricating new tabs from scratch?)

Noel

It's been awhile. I don't even remember which bike I did it on. I haven't had a problem with It. My brother said his didn't line up very good after he did It. So if there was going to be a problem would be with his. Haven't talked to him in a while. I'll ask him how it's holding up. I've also used it to fill in large missing chunks.

[CutterBill]

Hmmm... I suppose a fellow with a lathe could turn some new posts out of ABS rod.  Wouldn't be very difficult...

[markmartin]

Thing is, I don't have the posts.

I sort of have half a mind to just drill a hole through the panel and to use some nylon panel fasteners

an idea...use Play-Doe to form around an existing post.  Cut the Play Doe off the post by cutting it in half.  Tape the Play Doe back together to form a mold and fill it with T-88.  Let dry.  Remove mold and epoxy the fabricated post to the side panel.

I did something similar to fix a busted fender.     http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=5770.msg50373;topicseen#msg50373

[giantkiller]

Like I said before plastex comes with a reusable rubber molding bar. Simply heat it up on the stove. In a pot of water. shape it around what ever you want to copy. Let it cool and pull it off.  Plastex is powdered plastic. Fill the mold with the powder add the liquid and It melts the plastic powder to the part. Let It set overnight.peel the mold off. And you have a solid plastic part. Just reheat the mold and use It for the next part.  
Oh yeah the first kit I bought from them, came with a small piece of fiberglass cloth you can use to reinforce It with if you want. Just put some plastic packing tape on one side of the fiberglass cloth cut It to shape. flip it over so the fiberglass is up. Cover it with a thin layer of the powder. Add the liquid. Place It on the part.(fiberglass down tape up of course). The tape will release. And you have a plastic sheet ( the tape)to rub out any bubbles and smooth out the fiberglass. After Its all smoothed out slide the tape off and let It sit overnight again. You can add the fiberglass reinforcement.anytime. But I would do it right away after you take the mold off. Then you don't have to worry about it having contaminants that you have to clean off.