Bikes cuts off while riding

[laseron]

I've got an 89 FJ1200 with 84,000 miles on it. Recently, while riding, it has suddenly cut off completely, even the digital clock went blank. After coasting to a stop, I'd turn off the ignition switch, and the clock would come back on. When I switched the ignition back on , no response from the start button, and the clock would go out. After waiting a minute, I'd switch the the ignition back on ,the clock worked, and the bike would start like normal. The battery stays on a Battery Tender when I'm not riding, and is rather new. Is the ignition module going, or do I have a some other problem? I also checked battery to crankcase ground, and it seems solid. Any ideas?

[JPaganel]

I've got an 89 FJ1200 with 84,000 miles on it. Recently, while riding, it has suddenly cut off completely, even the digital clock went blank. After coasting to a stop, I'd turn off the ignition switch, and the clock would come back on. When I switched the ignition back on , no response from the start button, and the clock would go out. After waiting a minute, I'd switch the the ignition back on ,the clock worked, and the bike would start like normal. The battery stays on a Battery Tender when I'm not riding, and is rather new. Is the ignition module going, or do I have a some other problem? I also checked battery to crankcase ground, and it seems solid. Any ideas?

Ignition module would not make your clock go blank.

When it goes out, try grounding the negative terminal of the battery to the rear subframe. Some grounds run through it, and sometimes it can lose contact with the rest of the bike.

[ct7088]

I've had a boat battery go dead suddenly after exceeding its life expectancy by using a Battery Minder.

Chris

[a.graham52]

Take your battery terminals off, I spectacular for minute scotch marks, scrape clean and add some dielectric grease to the contacts. Reinstall and get them super tight without stripping them. Also make sure your bikes battery cables are the FIRST thing to touch the battery. Tender second that way there is least amount of resistance between your battery and bike.


I had the ground cable arc at the battery on my bandit and it wouldn't start. Even thought I had just ridden it 50 miles. Wiggle the cable and all was good.

[FJmonkey]

A point of clarification is needed. When you say the clock goes out, do you mean the back light, or the LED numbers? You may be experiencing the dreaded sticking start button switch. I fixed a problem a few years ago during a rally when a fellow member noticed his headlamp was out when the bike was running. I pulled the starter button out and the light came back on. I charged him $50. It was a bargain, my field emergency rates start at $200 just to show up. 

These switches are getting older and need to be cleaned and lubricated to work as intended.

[laseron]

The clock numerals go out when I turn the ignition key on. No power to anything at that point. I'm looking for a bad/corroded ground right now. I guess the clock operates as normal when the key is off because there's no load on the battery. When I switch the key back on, the clock goes out because the rest of the electrical system is trying to draw power through an iffy ground. By the way, the ignition switch is a relatively new one from Emgo, I believe. Anyone know of problems with aftermarket ignition switches?

[FJmonkey]

The clock numerals go out when I turn the ignition key on. No power to anything at that point. I'm looking for a bad/corroded ground right now. I guess the clock operates as normal when the key is off because there's no load on the battery. When I switch the key back on, the clock goes out because the rest of the electrical system is trying to draw power through an iffy ground. By the way, the ignition switch is a relatively new one from Emgo, I believe. Anyone know of problems with aftermarket ignition switches?

When trouble shooting it is best to start from the last thing you changed just before the problem started. The EMGO ignition switch is now a suspect. Bad grounds are also very common on older bikes so you are on the right track. Adding grounds are also an easy way to prevent future issues with no down side. Randy at RPM recommends adding extra ground wires, main frame to triple tree, main frame to front and rear sub-frames. Don't rule out a bad battery either. They can and do suffer from sudden failure. Unloaded they may have 12VDC. Measure the voltage before and during when you turn the ignition on.

[Tuneforkfreak]

I would agree with Monkey. Never assume the new part should be over looked just because its new. Those dam "new" Chinese fuel pumps had me chasing my tail over and over. But in an electrical case where things just all go out then get cycled and come back on I'm always looking for a fouled connection. If you can get it powered up again leave it on and go through the wiring wiggling things and see if you can get it to shut off. I had a charging issue on my DRZ 400S and did this wire wiggle trick with the bike running while i had a volt meter on it. From the start the meter read 11.9V while running I got to one connection and the meter jumped up to 14V. I pulled that plastic connector apart and it was completely full of green corrosion. FYI my DRZ is in mint condition and always gets cleaned after I dirt ride so the outside of that connector still looked show room new.