Chains

[balky1]

Sooo.
I have my "local" internet supplier from Germany  where I buy parts for '85 1100 most of the time since they are a lot cheaper than in Croatia. My latest acquisition is DID ZVMX chain, bla bla bla.
They stock some other chain manufacturers that are somewhat cheaper than DID, but I had problems finding chain specifications for some so I sticked to something I know.
My question is, any one of you had an experience with JMT, JT, RK or Enuma chains and if yes, which type? 
And does any one of you have an idea why in Germany they rate FJ to 100 HP, while on other sites, for example http://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/model/yamaha/yamaha_fj1100%2084.htm, they rate it on 125 HP? What is her true power?

Ivan

[oldktmdude]

   G'day Ivan, I can't help you much with chain advice except for this, the more you pay, the better the quality of the chain. DID is quality chain.
The 125 HP rating is at the crankshaft, 100 HP is rear wheel HP.
  Regards, Pete.

[balky1]

   G'day Ivan, I can't help you much with chain advice except for this, the more you pay, the better the quality of the chain. The 125 HP rating is at the crankshaft, 100 HP is rear wheel HP.
   Regards, Pete.

Thanks for the HP info, I thought that's the catch.
Regarding prices and quality I do somewhat agree, but also think that, especially in DID case, you pay some extra for the name, too. That's why I popped the question.

Ivan

[oldktmdude]

   You're probably right about paying extra for the name but there's a reason for their good name. 
   Regards, Pete.

[FJmonkey]

When looking for a chain the name is a good place to start. But pay attention to its tensile strength. The higher rating means it will withstand more torque from the engine. This results in less stretch and less chance of breaking. We recently had a chain break at the WCR. The good part, no injury to rider as the chain whipped around and balled up around the CS sprocket. The bad was a broken case and the bike went home on a trailer. 

[Firehawk068]

I have an RK chain on mine. (GB530GXW)
This is the specific chain I have. http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/rk-530-gxw-xw-ring-chain?utm_source=product&kwd=&gclid=CNvEusX7480CFQwPaQodK2YITA

It has been on the bike for 6 years now, and has needed very little adjustment for stretch or wear. (and I haven't exactly been very nice to it over it's life so far)
It has a bit over 32,000 miles on it since I put it on in 2010.



I cut one more link off when I installed it. This is where the axle was located when the chain was new. (May 2010)




This is where the axle was in December 2014, adjusted for wear/stretch, and it hasn't really worn any more since then.


When the time comes to buy another chain/sprockets, I will get another of the same chain.

[4everFJ]

And does any one of you have an idea why in Germany they rate FJ to 100 HP, while on other sites, for example http://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/model/yamaha/yamaha_fj1100%2084.htm, they rate it on 125 HP? What is her true power?

Ivan

In Germany, many bikes are restricted to max. 100 bhp (or used to be). Some insurance limit as I recall it.

On the FJ it is done with smaller inner diameter intake boots between carbs and engine. So, easy to de-restrict.  

[aviationfred]

Years ago during the 1980's and 1990's, I never gave much thought to what chains i used. I was riding 30,000-50,000 miles a year and my attitude was..... The less expensive, the better. I thought it was normal to change a chain every 6 months. (Ignorance is not bliss)  

Fortunately I had no chain failures during that time.   But, the potential for a high priced failure was lurking all the time.

Once I joined this forum and saw photos of a chain failure on an FJ and the disastrous results. I immediately purchased a top shelf EK ZZZ chain. As Alan has stated on his post and his use of an RK chain. You definitely get what you pay for. The roughly $200.00 +/- 50 is money well spent for the piece of mind with knowing you have installed a very good product to transfer engine power to the rear wheel.

Fred

[balky1]

Years ago during the 1980's and 1990's, I never gave much thought to what chains i used. I was riding 30,000-50,000 miles a year and my attitude was..... The less expensive, the better. I thought it was normal to change a chain every 6 months. (Ignorance is not bliss)  

Fortunately I had no chain failures during that time.   But, the potential for a high priced failure was lurking all the time.

Once I joined this forum and saw photos of a chain failure on an FJ and the disastrous results. I immediately purchased a top shelf EK ZZZ chain. As Alan has stated on his post and his use of an RK chain. You definitely get what you pay for. The roughly $200.00 +/- 50 is money well spent for the piece of mind with knowing you have installed a very good product to transfer engine power to the rear wheel.

Fred

That EK is actually Enuma chains, right?

[balky1]

When looking for a chain the name is a good place to start. But pay attention to its tensile strength. The higher rating means it will withstand more torque from the engine. This results in less stretch and less chance of breaking. We recently had a chain break at the WCR. The good part, no injury to rider as the chain whipped around and balled up around the CS sprocket. The bad was a broken case and the bike went home on a trailer. 

Its strength is the main reason why I asked because it is easy to find on the internet the chain you need if you are buying DID or RK. I had trouble in finding this info for the rest of the manufacturers.
I never doubted which chain to buy now since I had enough money to go for DID, but you never know what to expect in the future regarding income.  So now I'm gathering first hand infos on those manufacturers I couldn't find online.

[balky1]

I have an RK chain on mine. (GB530GXW)
This is the specific chain I have. http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/rk-530-gxw-xw-ring-chain?utm_source=product&kwd=&gclid=CNvEusX7480CFQwPaQodK2YITA

It has been on the bike for 6 years now, and has needed very little adjustment for stretch or wear. (and I haven't exactly been very nice to it over it's life so far)
It has a bit over 32,000 miles on it since I put it on in 2010.



I cut one more link off when I installed it. This is where the axle was located when the chain was new. (May 2010)




This is where the axle was in December 2014, adjusted for wear/stretch, and it hasn't really worn any more since then.


When the time comes to buy another chain/sprockets, I will get another of the same chain.

Thanks for the RK info!

[balky1]

And does any one of you have an idea why in Germany they rate FJ to 100 HP, while on other sites, for example http://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/model/yamaha/yamaha_fj1100%2084.htm, they rate it on 125 HP? What is her true power?

Ivan

In Germany, many bikes are restricted to max. 100 bhp (or used to be). Some insurance limit as I recall it.

On the FJ it is done with smaller inner diameter intake boots between carbs and engine. So, easy to de-restrict.  

Mine is de-ristricted. The prob is, for example, when I'm buying chain from Germany for specific bike, say FJ 1100, they offer variety of chains based on 100 HP. That led me to conclusion that some of those chains aren't strong enough for my de-restricted FJ.

[balky1]

Years ago during the 1980's and 1990's, I never gave much thought to what chains i used. I was riding 30,000-50,000 miles a year and my attitude was..... The less expensive, the better. I thought it was normal to change a chain every 6 months. (Ignorance is not bliss)  

Fortunately I had no chain failures during that time.   But, the potential for a high priced failure was lurking all the time.

Once I joined this forum and saw photos of a chain failure on an FJ and the disastrous results. I immediately purchased a top shelf EK ZZZ chain. As Alan has stated on his post and his use of an RK chain. You definitely get what you pay for. The roughly $200.00 +/- 50 is money well spent for the piece of mind with knowing you have installed a very good product to transfer engine power to the rear wheel.

Fred

In 1980's my father was a biker. Had a Honda Boldor, Kawasaki GPZ1100 etc. and, since we lived in shit communistic Yugoslavia, he couldn't buy a chain anywhere. So he used some from the harvesters. 
He often told me the stories, going on a rally somewhere and carrying at least one spare because they constantly broke. I wonder how he never had a problem with chain that broke. "It would just "leak" behind me", he said. 

[aviationfred]

Years ago during the 1980's and 1990's, I never gave much thought to what chains i used. I was riding 30,000-50,000 miles a year and my attitude was..... The less expensive, the better. I thought it was normal to change a chain every 6 months. (Ignorance is not bliss)  

Fortunately I had no chain failures during that time.   But, the potential for a high priced failure was lurking all the time.

Once I joined this forum and saw photos of a chain failure on an FJ and the disastrous results. I immediately purchased a top shelf EK ZZZ chain. As Alan has stated on his post and his use of an RK chain. You definitely get what you pay for. The roughly $200.00 +/- 50 is money well spent for the piece of mind with knowing you have installed a very good product to transfer engine power to the rear wheel.

Fred

That EK is actually Enuma chains, right?

You are correct. EK is Enuma Chain Mfg. Co.

[a.graham52]

Thread jack alert...

I'm going to order my chain and sprocket set. I was going to go 18/41 or maybe 18/40. 60ish at 4k seems a bit much really. Maybe 60ish at 3750?

Also I'm converting to a gsxr rear wheel as well. What a good tinsel strength? 530?