Handlebar upgrade.

[Jeff0308]

It's been awhile since I've been on here.
I have always had an issue with the FJ riding position. 
So I decided to do something about it once and for all. 
I have been having issues with my shoulder and its playing hell with me while riding.
So rather than spend huge $ on a new bike at this stage as I still like the FJ  (other than the BMW R1200RT ) there is nothing I really like. Also I'm on club reg and its way cheaper than full reg. For what I'm saving between the 2 regos I can outlay on this and it's still cheaper than new.
So I have been looking for a "BETTER" riding position.
I have read numerous posts with people suffering the same issue or back pain.
I bought a new clamp setup from BIKERS MART in the UK. It's an ABM Clamp.
I have purchased a few sets of handlebars over time (3 sets) and I think?........ I may have the right set up or very close to it at a minimal cost. I will admit I don't want to spend stupid money on it because if it fails then plan 2 takes effect.....guess what's that is?.....
I have included a few photos of the setup so far. The photos show the original bar is in its original position for the purpose of the photo. I'm not in any hurry to complete it as work gets in the way. )
The latest set of handlebars  that are pictured are off eBay from WEBIKE in Japan. They are (hurricane #3) $56 Australian.
I have today just got new brake lines made up. 150mm longer brake line and 80mm clutch. The setup brings the handlebars 80mm towards the rider and raises up about 40mm. The handlebar overall height is 145mm and pullback of 175mm. Overall width is 740mm, however I found someone near me with a mandrel bender who further bent an extra 10 degrees into the bars which also changed the pullback more. (Better again) now the bars measure 690mm with bar ends. The exact same as the originals.
The mastercylinders DONT foul the fairing in anyway. Keep in mind this is an original 88-9 model. So far everyone who has tried this mod has used an 84-5 fairing.
The wiring remains untouched so far.
At this stage the riding position is nearly perfectly upright and just a slight bend in the elbows.. Yet to be tested. The accelerator cable has to be replaced. It's got to be made 150mm longer. That's next week.
I also was lucky enough to purchase a Corbin seat which took about an inch or 2 off the seat height. I will post the finished product up when it's done, hopefully in a week or 2. So far I'm really impressed.
Keep you all posted
Hope this helps some people.

[ribbert]

...(other than the BMW R1200RT ) there is nothing I really like.

Good to hear from you Jeff. Sounds like you're on the right track with the bars. I'm interested to hear how they play out.

Like you, the only bike I can find that I like other than the FJ is the RT. I have travelled interstate twice to look at bikes (should have bought the first one!) Depending on finances at the time I keep changing my mind between an '07+ and a '10+ (you don't want pre '07)

So the hunt just idles along on the back burner waiting for the right bike to come up (doesn't anyone buy these things in Victoria?), no rush, I'm hardly doing it tough on the FJ.

Then I took this for a fang up the Mitta Mitta Valley in perfect conditions, it was only a week old, and I was smitten.



I've ridden lots of the previous models and ride the GS a lot but this thing was another world. I decided on the spot I need one of these, whatever it takes, shame about the $25,000 second hand price tag though - might have to wait a while  .

If your budget doesn't stretch to one of the 2014 or later models DON'T ride one.

Noel

[PaulG]

...(other than the BMW R1200RT ) there is nothing I really like.

... shame about the $25,000 second hand price tag though - might have to wait a while  .

Maybe consider the 2016 R1200RS.  About $5K cheaper than an RT.  New $15K US (+luggage).  Ergonomics are towards the sporty side.  Kinda like an old FJ minus 2 cyl.  Lotsa grunt and good on the long haul or spritz up the mountain.  Might have to wait a while for a used one.  Hmmm ... I could always sell the house and live in someone's basement...

[ribbert]

...(other than the BMW R1200RT ) there is nothing I really like.

... shame about the $25,000 second hand price tag though - might have to wait a while  .

Maybe consider the 2016 R1200RS.  About $5K cheaper than an RT.  New $15K US (+luggage).  Ergonomics are towards the sporty side.  Kinda like an old FJ minus 2 cyl.  Lotsa grunt and good on the long haul or spritz up the mountain.  Might have to wait a while for a used one.  Hmmm ... I could always sell the house and live in someone's basement...

I had a salesman trying his best to talk me into an RS but it just didn't do it for me. If it wasn't an RT I'd probably go for a GS.

Wow, $15K in the US, an RT here is low/mid 30's.

Noel

[The General]

...(other than the BMW R1200RT ) there is nothing I really like.

... shame about the $25,000 second hand price tag though - might have to wait a while  .

Maybe consider the 2016 R1200RS.  About $5K cheaper than an RT.  New $15K US (+luggage).  Ergonomics are towards the sporty side.  Kinda like an old FJ minus 2 cyl.  Lotsa grunt and good on the long haul or spritz up the mountain.  Might have to wait a while for a used one.  Hmmm ... I could always sell the house and live in someone's basement...

I had a salesman trying his best to talk me into an RS but it just didn't do it for me. If it wasn't an RT I'd probably go for a GS.

Wow, $15K in the US, an RT here is low/mid 30's.

Noel

Might pay to bring in a container from Europe at present currency rates!....you do the homework and I bet ya get a few takers ta fill that container! 

[Jeff0308]

Noel, I like your views on the BMWs
How do you think the 2010 RTs compare to new.  Ridden a few  2010 models and I'm really impressed. Not ridden the new series though.
Again as you say it's a price thing. Got to justify the huge price tag.
Can't say I haven't been looking.
FJ is good. Thought of having 2 bikes but my other half might have an issue with it......I don't though......
I still enjoy the FJ. Just the riding position is taking its toll on me.
As for power you can't beat them. They just pull like a Trojan. It's ability outweighs my courage. 
I've Spent a lot of time on it, I'm not prepared to give it up quite yet. Come to far to throw it away. Besides if this mod works you'll here me crowing.
One thing with the old bikes, they sure get the looks. They are a good conversation starter.
Parked in amongst the new ones they are in a league of thre own. 

[Jeff0308]

I meant to say,
I bought new brake lines from a brake and clutch place near home. Had to get them made longer. I asked the question regarding "eBay brake lines" .
The guy informed me as well as showed me the difference. eBay ones ARE NOT (ADR Compliant)
The ones he made have a stamp impression which signifies where they were made. Each machine has a unique number which is only certified to one person.
In the event of a serious accident if they check the brake lines they know who done it. With eBay ones you run the risk of voiding your insurance, also there is a quality of material issue. I then thought how the handlebar swap would affect the insurance ,so I rang the insurance company out of interest. Apparently that's fine? There is no "manufacturing" of components required. I asked for further clarification, they refer to welding of components.
Go figure.
I can't.

[aviationfred]

Jeff, in previous conversations on Facebook. I think I remember that you and I are close to the same height.  

For riding position changes, I find it helpful to have someone take a photo of you actually riding the bike at speed. IMO it gives a new perspective on what direction to make riding position mods.

Here is an example and since i do think we are similar in height. A quite short 5ft 7in/170cm. The photos may help.

Riding position mods are....

1. RPM bar risers
2. Corbin Gunfighter & Lady
3. Buell lowered foot pegs.

Fred

[jscgdunn]

Fred,
What are you thoughts on these...would they bolt on?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Shinobi-Black-Adjustable-Front-Footpegs-40mm-for-Buell-XB12R-Firebolt-2004-/201107294403?hash=item2ed2edc8c3:g:wzYAAOSwqu9U7v1-&vxp=mtr

Thx,

Jeff

[ribbert]

Noel, I like your views on the BMWs
How do you think the 2010 RTs compare to new. 

Since the RT was introduced each subsequent model was a predictable and improved update on the former. The 2014 however is a huge leap forward. As I said, if the current model is outside your budget, don't ride one! I wont go through the list, it'll just keep you awake at night dreaming like it does me.

The 2010 probably represents the best value for money. It got the twin cam heads from the HP2, a massive increase in torque, better aerodynamics and brakes, all the electronics like ESC, ABS, traction control, on the fly suspension adjustment, cruise, heated seats and grips, sound system and so on are standard.

Keep in mind though, if you intend taking it to a dealer for service and repair, you need deep pockets. Parts are expensive. For example, the brake module on the pre '07 models (which is why you don't want one) with the integrated brakes is $3500 and they are prone to failure. The most common fix is to disconnect it and have independent F&R brakes like the rest of the world.

My only complaint, and this applies to the current model as well, is the gearbox is still very tractor like. You could probably tow a full size caravan around Australia with it but it's not sporty like Jap gearboxes. You get used to it though and if you're not thrashing it around the mountains it probably doesn't matter.

The quick shifter on the new models overcomes this but ridden manually, it is still a bit agricultural.

Noel

I got your email - noted.

[aviationfred]

Fred,
What are you thoughts on these...would they bolt on?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Shinobi-Black-Adjustable-Front-Footpegs-40mm-for-Buell-XB12R-Firebolt-2004-/201107294403?hash=item2ed2edc8c3:g:wzYAAOSwqu9U7v1-&vxp=mtr

Thx,

Jeff

Jeff,

Those may work ok. I have have seen adds that advise against front foot pegs being lowered more than 30mm.
  What I have found with trying lowered foot pegs is for the left side, positioning issues when the side stand is up and also with the pusher foot of the center stand.


These Buell pegs are very similar to the ones I am currently using. Depending on how an individual positions their rear brake pedal. Slight grinding/filing may be required.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Buell-Rider-Footpeg-Pair-Kit-for-XB-Models-N0006-1AD-L19B-/391494339246?fits=Make%3ABuell&hash=item5b26e18aae:m:mV4TGxCYA3da84JriUmNVew&vxp=mtr


The following photo is my actual peg.

When you install these foot pegs, or the Shinobi adjustable pegs. You may not consciously notice much difference at first. Ride the bike exclusively for about 2 weeks and then ride an FJ that has OEM foot pegs. You will be amazed that you ever rode with the OEM pegs being so high.  

Fred

I also have a set of the Shinobi style adjustable pegs. They are the 23mm version.

[markmartin]

You might want to consider a 20mm drop instead of the 40 mm drop that are pictured on the site you linked. I'm no peg dragger, but occasionally drag my boots with the 20mm drop foot pegs I installed .  Also, at 20mm of drop, I'm limited out on how low I could get the shifter be and still operate--maybe I'm doing something wrong, but I think a 40mm drop would leave the shifter way high..

As Fred mentioned, there is an issue with the side stand when in riding position. I had to weld a 1/8"  spot on the kickstand stop to limit it's position from fully 'up'.

With all that said, the lower footpegs are very comfortable and an upgrade for my old knees and hips.

[jscgdunn]

Great advice...thanks guys!

[jscgdunn]

Sorry wrong whatever this thing is called

[Jeff0308]

Jeff, in previous conversations on Facebook. I think I remember that you and I are close to the same height.  

For riding position changes, I find it helpful to have someone take a photo of you actually riding the bike at speed. IMO it gives a new perspective on what direction to make riding position mods.

Here is an example and since i do think we are similar in height. A quite short 5ft 7in/170cm. The photos may help.

Riding position mods are....

1. RPM bar risers
2. Corbin Gunfighter & Lady
3. Buell lowered foot pegs.

Fred

Fred.
Our heights are the same.
I haven't been able to get someone to take the photos as you have had done.
The changes I did before starting the handlebar mods  was a set of RPM Risers. They were ok but not enough.
I've buggered my shoulder a while ago and riding the FJ has become an effort as the riding position is more "lean forward" style than upright. Hopefully the shoulder will mend itself but what it has done is "highlight" an issue for me. Riding a half hour feels like I've been stabbed, which the pain won't subside for a day or 2 and is Really uncomfortable. So the bikes been sidelined.
Now I am trying to adapt this setup.
The "riding position" isn't 100% upright but very close.
I have tried with the bike in a static position using the original seat and handlebars as well as with the new bars in place and I have also tried the Corbin in the exact same way.
The Corbin brings the height down approximately an inch over the standard.
The angles don't change a great deal using the old handlebars.
However, with the new bars in position it takes the "pressure" off the shoulders.
Now even though I'm doing all this I do hear what your saying.
The bike might handle like a bucket of shite, which means trying other options.
The foot pegs you mention have been noted and will be looking at that after this has been tried and tested.
Will keep you updated