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Katana 600 clutch lever options

Started by a.graham52, May 14, 2016, 11:03:17 PM

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a.graham52

So my gf rocks a 96 Suzuki katana. If the clutch CABLE is adjusted correctly it will hurt her hand in short order. However if I slacken the cable it's a lot easier for her as she now can work the clutch closer to the bar. Downside is there is a mile of free-play in the cable when not in use. Other wise clutch is just fine. What would be the best course of action?


a.graham52

Lol. She just stepped up from a bandit 400 to this. So dropping her on an 11 or 12 maybe not so much. Need to build that confidence

CutterBill

Nothing wrong with having a bunch of free play, AS LONG AS the clutch will fully disengage.  If there is no loud CLUNK when she shifts into 1st gear (at a stop), if the clutch isn't dragging and not trying to move the bike... she's good.

Not all bikes are the same.  Some need every bit of throw you can get at the lever, just to disengage the clutch.  Other bikes just don't seem to need that much.  When I had a KLR650, I had the clutch cable set up with a bunch of free play so that it would start to engage at mid-travel.  And the clutch was fully dis-engaged when the lever was at the grip.  It was just the way that bike was designed.

You probably know this, but if the clutch lever is hard for her to pull, make sure the cable is well-lubed.  Actually, with a bike that old, you should just replace the cable with new.  Makes a huge difference in the amount of effort it takes to pull the clutch lever.

Wait... you found a girl that rides a sport bike?  Bastard...    :drinks:
Never Slow Down, Never Grow Old.

Current Stable:                                                     
FJ1100                                              
FJ1200 (4)
1999 Yamaha WR400 (street-legal)
2015 Super Tenere
2002 Honda Goldwing

Bones

You might be able to put a different lever on it to make it easier for her. If it's got a straight lever on it now, put one with a bend in it to bring it closer to the bar, then you can take all the slack out of the cable. That's why they've now got adjustable levers on master cylinders, adjust to suit.
93 fj1200
79 suzuki gt250x7


Too young to be old but old enough to know better.

4everFJ

1985 - Yamaha FJ1100 36Y
1978 - Yamaha SR500
1983 - Kawasaki GPZ550 (sold)
1977 - Kawasaki Z400 (sold)

PaulG

There are also clutch lever aasists which have an internal linkage which changes the ratio making it easier.

This type is for dirt bikes:

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/4223/i/moose-racing-easy-pull-clutch-system

This is one for Harleys

http://www.retrocycle.com/CustomChromeSku/26386/EZPull_Power_Clutch_Assist_by_Amp_Research__In_Chrome.html

You might be able to adapt them, or or go to a supplier and see if there is something more specific for older Japanese bikes.
1992 FJ1200 ABS
YouTube Channel Paul G


Bill_Rockoff

Yes on the adjustable lever, but also - lube the cable, and also the little knobs at the ends that ride in the lever and in the clutch arm.  Makes a HUGE difference. 

Carey sprayed some lube into the clutch cable housing of one of the Ninjas Andrew rode to a spring rally (can't remember if it was the 250 or his 500) and it made a big difference.  Also, lubing the knobs lets them rotate in the lever and clutch arm, which lets the cable itself pull directly on them instead of bending at the very end.  (This is why they break.)

Reg Pridmore yelled at me once


a.graham52

So I finally dug into it. Cable is definitely a concern. Completely removed the cover and cable aND could barely move the cable. I have it hanging with a funnel full of wd40 tapped to one end.

ribbert

Quote from: a.graham52 on May 21, 2016, 10:43:59 PM
So I finally dug into it. Cable is definitely a concern. Completely removed the cover and cable aND could barely move the cable. I have it hanging with a funnel full of wd40 tapped to one end.

Trying to revive cables is rarely successful (depends why it's stiff) and while WD40 might free it up a bit, it has no enduring lubricating qualities. It is a penetrant, not a lubricant.
Even if you restore movement it's never going to be as slick as a new cable and a light throttle makes bike control so much easier.

I gave up mucking around with cables decades ago, if they're stiff, replace them, they are not a big budget item and it makes the bike feel new and lighter.

Noel
"Tell a wise man something he doesn't know and he'll thank you, tell a fool something he doesn't know and he'll abuse you"

Pat Conlon

Right on Noel :good:
Cables are a wear item, like tires.
You can clean and lube them, extend their life, but they just flat out wear out.
Once the internal cable gets hairy, it's toast. Once the strands start breaking at the ball ends, it's toast.

Time for a new cable.
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4) Important items for the '84-87 FJ's:
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bigbore2

That could easily be safety issue, esp when taking off.  0r when trying to jump between traffic. She deserves a new cable and clutch that works well.  And who will be the hero in this scenario in her mind......YOU.

a.graham52

We ordered a new cable. And also the screw actuator as part of the actuator that hold the cable is half broken. I will be extremely curious how it will feel with a new cable. Need to get it back together so I can get it off the dolly and out of my shop... so I can start my front end swap on the fj