front brake light sender/switch

[Charlie-brm]

No problem. It's good to share knowledge. Like next time I have a voltage drop, I'll try your method of dropping the part on the floor and see if that helps. Why didn't I see the connection before now. 

I still would have taken it apart while I had it out but maybe that's just me. I love getting into the guts of things electric, going on 50 years with a soldering iron. The corrosion is not from humid air, it's the microscopic breakdown that goes on anytime surfaces are passing electricity. The contact area is darkened and rough and needs a wipe. I even spin AA batteries in place in their receptacles as my first resort if things go dim or wonky, like my computer mouse acting up.

[aviationfred]

Here is an example of a heat shrink butt splice. As mentioned above. You crimp the metal feral to your wires the same as a regular butt spice, then use a heat gun to shrink the plastic.

Fred

[fj1289]

heat shrink crimp connectors-never heard of them.  Will sort out locally here, I hope.
that site in Canada looks tasty-thanx

All the normal car parts places carry her shrink style as- Autozone, NAPA, O'Reillys, etc

OxGuard I've found at RadioShack and Home Depot.

[aviationfred]

Oh..... Something to remember. Use the lowest heat setting on heat gun that will shrink the heat shrink. The material that is used for insulation for Motorcycle/Automotive wiring has a relatively low melting point.

Fred

[indyblue]

Hate replying to a necro-thread but it seems I will have to replace the front brake switch for a second time in two years.  I replaced with an OEM one about two years ago and it's already failed.

Is this common?

[racerrad8]

Hate replying to a necro-thread but it seems I will have to replace the front brake switch for a second time in two years.  I replaced with an OEM one about two years ago and it's already failed.

Is this common?

Not normal. The usual culprit is moisture corroding the contacts inside..

There is the occasional broken contact as it is a pivot, those are pretty rare.

Pop the cover off and have a look, you might identify the problem. If you find it corroded and replace it again, pop the cover off the new one and put a.little dielectric grease on the contacts to prevent future issues.

We don't not stock the front switch because they don't usually gove trouble, but I can supply both Yamaha or aftermarket. The only front brake light switch we stock os the conversion switch for those who are changing over to thr FJR master cylinder.

http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3ABrakeLightSwitch

Let us know what you find.

Randy - RPM

[indyblue]

My genuine OEM Yamaha replacement switch indeed went bad. Still don't know what failed, wiggling one of the connector tabs produced intermittent brake lighting.  I think the plastic housing either failed or was marginally defective, it only lasted one season.  Bike is always garaged and has not seen rain in over a decade so I can't imagine it's due to corrosion.  I replaced with a new OEM part and all is well.

If this one fails, I may need to try to add a capacitor for arc prevention along with dielectric grease.