Oil drain to sump time

[mr blackstock]

G'day,
I am conducting an experiment regarding the time it takes for oil to drain down to the sump in an FJ1100 or 1200 motor.  Now I know many people will have different viscosities, 10w-30 or 15w-40, etc, but I feel this will not impact my experiment too much.  nor am I asking for stop watch times, I would be happy with 3 minutes, 5 minutes etc.  Only results where the oil level is at it's maximum prior to warming up would be useable 

The motor would have to have been run to normal temp, and placed on the center stand, and then the time taken for the oil to return to its normal level, assuming a certain amount will be in the filter anyway.

I realise there are many variables, but I would be interested in finding an average time, if there is one.
If someone uses an oil additive, please post that separately or PM me.

cheers, Gareth

[ribbert]

G'day,
I am conducting an experiment regarding the time it takes for oil to drain down to the sump in an FJ1100 or 1200 motor.  Now I know many people will have different viscosities, 10w-30 or 15w-40, etc, but I feel this will not impact my experiment too much.  nor am I asking for stop watch times, I would be happy with 3 minutes, 5 minutes etc.  Only results where the oil level is at it's maximum prior to warming up would be useable 

The motor would have to have been run to normal temp, and placed on the center stand, and then the time taken for the oil to return to its normal level, assuming a certain amount will be in the filter anyway.

I realise there are many variables, but I would be interested in finding an average time, if there is one.
If someone uses an oil additive, please post that separately or PM me.

cheers, Gareth

Errr Gareth, for what purpose are you interested in this information.

I could give you stats on literally thousands of oil changes but I'm not sure what you are trying to establish here.

Noel

Noel

[Firehawk068]

Since the big slot that the cam chain resides in has no restriction to dumping any oil back down into the crankcase that may be up in the camshaft area, I would vote for about 20-30 seconds for the majority of the oil to run off most of the parts that get wet, and raise the oil level back to full line?

[mr blackstock]

Hello,

I am wondering if people who use oils that claim to keep oil on parts longer actually witness the oil taking longer to drain down... as there seem very few ways in which a person can judge this claim without expensive testing, my rationale is oil staying on parts is good, and I was curious to see if it actually occurs, as the oil takes awhile to drain down on my engine.  I will test mine properly tomorrow.

Firehawke068 might be right, it could be the same for all FJ's regardless of oil type.

cheers, Gareth

[4everFJ]

I just took my valve cover off to adjust the valves.

The bike has been standing still over the winter for 3 months.

Camshaft lobes, valve shims and all other parts in that area was covered in a thick layer of oil, even on vertical surfaces.

So, you can be sure that the oil sticks to surfaces even after a long time.

BTW, I use Castrol 10W50 fully synthetic. Is that a good oil....? 

[TexasDave]

Oh no another oil thread. Just shoot me now. Any synthetic is better than organic but that's just my opinion.   Dave

[FJmonkey]

I have used both Dino and Synth and can tell you the full Synth tastes way better on my popcorn. 

[aviationfred]

I just checked with mine. When I got home, turned the bike off, put on the center stand and it took about a minute for the oil to reach the full line. Running 10w30 break-in oil.

Fred

[mr blackstock]

Thanks for the input...
And I definitely do not want to start an oil thread.. in the words of the Blues Brothers, "just the facts, ma'am"

I do not imagine much difference between synthetic and mineral in regards to drain time.  Interestingly, it may be a case of putting the bike on the main stand instead of the side stand to maintain a good amount of oil up at the valve end of the motor...

cheers, Gareth

[aviationfred]

When the valve cover is removed, there is a surprising amount oil captured in each shim and bucket pocket. I believe that part of the longevity of our engines can be attributed to plenty of oil remaining in the valve train after shut down. No worries of dry start up induced wear.

Fred

[ribbert]

Hello,

I am wondering if people who use oils that claim to keep oil on parts longer actually witness the oil taking longer to drain down.... my rationale is oil staying on parts is good
cheers, Gareth

Gareth, only viscosity and temperature are going to affect the rate at which the oil returns to the sump.

The "clingyness" that some manufactures claim refers only to a film left on the surfaces (about which I am skeptical) and as a percentage of the total volume of oil in the engine, is negligible.

Yes, oil staying on parts is good, something all oil does to a lesser or greater extent.

The parts in the head that benefit from pooled oil are not going to drain off with 10 - 15 deg lean on the side stand. The camshaft journals are pressure fed and there is plenty of oil around the buckets, nor is there any evidence in high mileage motors of excessive wear in the cams and valve gear on the "high" side.
Oil gets to that part of the motor so quickly, I don't even prime a rebuild before first start.

If engine longevity is your concern, simple, don't start it, but if you must, a high mileage to cold start ratio could double or even treble your engine life - cold starts kill engines.

There are plenty of things you can do to extend the life of your engine, parking upright to maintain an even spread of oil is not one of them.

I always find it strange the passion with which forum members promote a brand, type or viscosity of oil with endorsements like "it's never given me any trouble" etc. Of course it hasn't, it's engine oil just doing it's job.

Modern oils to me are like modern tyres, if you stick to premium brands, they're all good, the only difference being, you can tell what sort of job your tyres are doing.

Change the oil/filter often, adopt a good cold start up and warm up riding procedure, stay away from this stuff (below) and you should get 100's of 1000's of kms out of it. Most of these engines have more miles left in them than the current owners are ever likely to put on them anyway, if they would just stop fiddling with them.



Noel

[PaulG]

I'll bet dat don't taste no good on popcorn.   

[FJmonkey]

I'll bet dat don't taste no good on popcorn.   

Agreed...