Noise problem

[Sparafucile]

I have a 84 -85 Fj1100 that i believe has been standing for a couple of years, when i bought her there were no strange noises and the bike started first time. I have ridden her approx. 200km. Today after a short ride she has decided to make a buzzing/rattling noise when in neutral, but goes away when the clutch is pulled in, also there is a whine almost like a diff whine when riding fast 60 to 80km/h.
I recently changed the oil filter put in 3.5liters of 20w50.

[Harvy]

Spara - you didn't happen to adjust the chain recently?...... I had a similar experience with the "diff whine" noise when I adjusted mine just a wee bit too tight with old rear wheel bearings.

Harvy

[Sparafucile]

Hi Harvy,
I havent even looked at that yet, but noticed that there is very little play in the chain, so will try that for the whine, Its the other noise that is worring me now

[Harvy]

Its the other noise that is worring me now

I wonder how old the oil was........usually fresh oil will quiet it down.
Maybe the new oil has flushed the clutch components of contamination and freed it up a bit?
I'd not be too worried about it if it's working ok..........have you listened to any other large displacement air cooled motors b4......its amazing the noises you hear...........a water cooled engine is significantly muffled by the water jacket.


Harvy

[ren-dog]

Hey Sparra,

From the description buzzing/rattling in neutral,
stops when clutch engaged,
and whine at speed:

High probability input shaft bearings leading to drive chain rattle,
low possibilty - starter shaft bearings, starter clutch.

Given noises after oil change I would question the oil.
Was it a mineral oil with strong detergent package?
If so you could try a liquid additive package.
But from what you've said about sitting for a while I am
guessing you have flushed something out of, or into,
one of your input shaft bearings. Sorry 

Maybe a thinner oil too 20W50 is for a hot climate
or worn engine. Others may know more about oils in FJ's.
Banana skins anyone 

[Sparafucile]

Thanks for the help, I think i will change the oil again, and use a more suitable oil 10w40 shell helix, should i change the oil filter? I just hope that there arnt any bits and pieces in the oil.

[VMS]

If there is any chance of oil contamination, absolutely replace the filter, and flush out the oil cooler.

[ren-dog]

Yeah Spara,

If you change the oil again
do it HOT and do the filter too.
Blowing the oil cooler out is good too.
I keep forgetting that gearbox and engine oil
are the same thing on motorbikes. So bearing
additives like Nulon are out.

Oils I've seen over the years:
Excellent oils are Penrite synthetic, Castrol Magnatec & Royal Purple.
Good oils are Castrol, Helix, Mobil One & Havoline.
Crap oils are anything by Valvoline and Elf.

Cheers 

[Arnie]

Excellent oils are Penrite synthetic, Castrol Magnatec & Royal Purple.
Good oils are Castrol, Helix, Mobil One & Havoline.
Crap oils are anything by Valvoline and Elf.

Cheers 

Knowing the risk of starting an "oil thread" and hoping not to (sorry folks).....
How have you arrived at your conclusions as stated above?
Is this just your gut feeling, or do you actually have empirical evidence to support those claims?

Cheers,
Arnie

[Dan Filetti]

Oils I've seen over the years:
Excellent oils are Penrite synthetic, Castrol Magnatec & Royal Purple.
Good oils are Castrol, Helix, Mobil One & Havoline.
Crap oils are anything by Valvoline and Elf.

At the risk of touching off the fire-storm that is an oil thread.  Where's the Rotella T in your list?  I really like the smoothness in shifting I get from Rotella, and the fact that you can get it at Wally World is awfully convienient too...  Seems to me others have come to the same conclusion as well.

My $0.02.

Dan

[racerrad8]

Crap oils are anything by Valvoline and Elf.

Sorry, I have to chime in also...

I use and recommend the use of Valvoline oil. For many of the same reasoning that the Rotella and other diesel engine oils are popular. They have a high concentrate of zinc which way designed to help camshaft/lifter lubrication, which in turn also helps with smoother shifting of the FJ.

I use and recommend the VR1 series of oils offered by Valvoline and have been through plenty of engines that have not used it; those customers are now users of the VR1. I have customers that are four and five years running VR1 20w-50, in the car application where we "cook" these engines and they look great when I pull the valve covers of for their annual valve adjustment.

Last season one of my customers, running a three year old engine, had the oil pump shaft strip the splines. He noted the oil pressure gauge was not reading, but since he had no prior problems, he figured it was a gauge problem. The engine not only kept running for three more laps (2.52 miles laps) before seizing up, it really looked immaculate when it was disassembled. The engine actually started after being towed in from the track. The piston(s) finally seized in the bore(s) stopping the engine. The lower end of the engine, which was discolored from heat, showed no signs of bearing damage such as galling or scoring. The heat was so intense that the white plastic neutral light indicator mounted on the side of the case actually melted and fell from the engine.

This engine has since been rebuilt and is back in in the car. He has his stripped oil pump shaft and melted plastic that he shows everyone. He was a believer in the oil prior, but now he can't stop preaching about it.

You can not go wrong with the Valvoline VR1 series of engine oils.

Randy - RPM

[mikeholzer]

I've been running th Rotella T the last two changes, too, and I have to say I've been pretty impressed. I'd be interested to hear what anybody else has to say about it without starting another oil argument ( I mean thread ).

[Dan Filetti]

Just to re-reiterate this, I ran back to back Castrol GTX then immediately Rotella T in my Gixxer and the difference in smoothness, and shifting was really noticable.  The Rotella made the bike feel better behaved, shifting better and smoother, it even felt like it idled a bit smoother.  I started getting 20 MPG better with the Rotella (OK that last bit was made up). I would not have thought it possible just be changing the oil, but the change was that distinct.  Based on that experince alone I'll not use anything else.

Dan

[VMS]

I use the new Amsoil 10/30 MCF (used 10/40 before the 10/30 came out), and love it. A couple of the guys I run with also use the Rotella and swear by it...it sure is cheaper, especially when you change it every 3 or 4 nights anyway

[the fan]

Crap oils are anything by Valvoline and Elf.

Sorry, I have to chime in also...

I use and recommend the use of Valvoline oil. For many of the same reasoning that the Rotella and other diesel engine oils are popular. They have a high concentrate of zinc which way designed to help camshaft/lifter lubrication, which in turn also helps with smoother shifting of the FJ.

I use and recommend the VR1 series of oils offered by Valvoline and have been through plenty of engines that have not used it; those customers are now users of the VR1. I have customers that are four and five years running VR1 20w-50, in the car application where we "cook" these engines and they look great when I pull the valve covers of for their annual valve adjustment.

Last season one of my customers, running a three year old engine, had the oil pump shaft strip the splines. He noted the oil pressure gauge was not reading, but since he had no prior problems, he figured it was a gauge problem. The engine not only kept running for three more laps (2.52 miles laps) before seizing up, it really looked immaculate when it was disassembled. The engine actually started after being towed in from the track. The piston(s) finally seized in the bore(s) stopping the engine. The lower end of the engine, which was discolored from heat, showed no signs of bearing damage such as galling or scoring. The heat was so intense that the white plastic neutral light indicator mounted on the side of the case actually melted and fell from the engine.

This engine has since been rebuilt and is back in in the car. He has his stripped oil pump shaft and melted plastic that he shows everyone. He was a believer in the oil prior, but now he can't stop preaching about it.

You can not go wrong with the Valvoline VR1 series of engine oils.

Randy - RPM

Interesting... I may have to give it a try. I normally run Rotella 5w-40 synthetic which runs appx $19.99 a gallon. The local autozone has the VR1 at 7.59 a quart which isn't too far off the mark for my budget if its a better product.
Randy, you guys run wet clutches in the legends cars, correct?