North American Fj1200's new Aussie life

[Urban_Legend]

Fosters?  Really?  I think the Monkey owes the Aussies an apology for that one.     Dave

Already included....  see end of post.

And the reference to wombat wiz....   

Married to an Aussie means I need to understand some proper Aussie. When they get mad, I run for cover...

"Wombat Wiz" would probably taste better than Fosters. I think Troyski might need some good honest JD for the work he is considering (especially without adult supervision). That way if she falls over again, he won't care (at least for a while)

Mark

[ribbert]

"Wombat Wiz" would probably taste better than Fosters....

Mark

This wombat I found on the side of the road on the trip back from Troy's manshed weekend clearly doesn't think much of VB either.



Noel

[Pat Conlon]

......When they get mad, I run for cover...

When they get mad, we ALL run for cover....

[Troyskie]

Back from the desert & straight into the shed.

Looking at all the red sand, spinifex, etc. gave me a fair amount of time to ponder how to get the FZR wheel to fit into Yummy.

The obvious one was measure the width of the hub.

A quick measure provided the std FJ rear wheel hub is about 166mm, and the FZR wheel is 186mm, therefore about a 20mm difference.

My problem now is, I can shave the spacers, calliper hanger, and hub by a total of about 12mm absolute screaming maximum, still well shy of the 20mm I need.

Any suggestions on other solutions?

Also, finally did a compression check. Whoa Nelly!!!! I'm amazed she even started, let alone ran as well as she did. I used two different devices, one a standard compression gauge and the second was a 'cylinder leak measuring gauge', both with the 'wet' test as well as the dry. Both gauges gave me the same result. From the LHS it was 85, 150, 85, 85 PSI respectively. The wet test showed the rings are rooted on all except the second one (is that #2 or #3?).

Next question,  should I do the valves whilst the head is off? Probably should, but just checking. I will be doing the valve stem guide seals.

Another question, should I break open the carbies whilst she is in bits? I'm very nervous of doing that as I've NO experience with them (nor have I any experience taking the top end off and doing the rings/valves!!!!  ). I know where they are, and where the idle screw is, but that is it. It looks like they were opened at some time in the past.

Finally, as the rear is totally open should I attempt to service/rebuild the rear shock (and probably grease the linkages)? If so, I prefer a re-build, can I get a stronger spring on it (like I've done to the forks)?

Troyskie

[Troyskie]

Sorry about the photos being on the wrong orientation, fine my end, but always out on the forum.

Another couple of questions lads....

For the top end work, aside from rings and valves, what other parts will I need?

For the carbies, any suggestions on kits, or go for full rebuild bottom up?

Troyskie

[Troyskie]

Wellllll noooowwww, I've bitten the bullet and will break open the engine while getting a GSXR rear wheel and ebaying the FZR wheel....

Step one, cross my fingers.
Step two, take heaps of photos.
Step three, mid-strength beer only.
Step four, Haynes manual. I seem to recall a couple of comments on some errors. Can anyone remember what they are?

[FJmonkey]

I have no experience with this but it might be worth a shot.
TECH-SPARK

[Troyskie]

Thanks Mark, by this are you suggesting I dump the Haynes and get something else?

[oldktmdude]

Wellllll noooowwww, I've bitten the bullet and will break open the engine while getting a GSXR rear wheel and ebaying the FZR wheel....

Step one, cross my fingers.
Step two, take heaps of photos.
Step three, mid-strength beer only.
Step four, Haynes manual. I seem to recall a couple of comments on some errors. Can anyone remember what they are?

Troy, let me know if you need a hand, I could be persuaded to spend a day or two helping. Mind you it would only be in an advisory and beer drinking role.
And none of that mid strength shit either! 
   Regards, Pete.

[FJmonkey]

Thanks Mark, by this are you suggesting I dump the Haynes and get something else?

No. I have a Climers manual but not a Haynes so I cannot suggest one over the other, the Climers works for me so far. The Yamaha manual is the best to get, just not sure how easy or inexpensive they are. When I did a search for one I came across that source.

[Troyskie]

Cool mate. The Haynes has had what I need so far. Fred mentioned he did his bike following it, so I'll follow his lead.
Troy

[Pat Conlon]

Get the genuine Yamaha factory service manual if at all possible.

[FJools]

Back from the desert & straight into the shed.

Looking at all the red sand, spinifex, etc. gave me a fair amount of time to ponder how to get the FZR wheel to fit into Yummy.

The obvious one was measure the width of the hub.

A quick measure provided the std FJ rear wheel hub is about 166mm, and the FZR wheel is 186mm, therefore about a 20mm difference.

My problem now is, I can shave the spacers, calliper hanger, and hub by a total of about 12mm absolute screaming maximum, still well shy of the 20mm I need.

Any suggestions on other solutions?

Also, finally did a compression check. Whoa Nelly!!!! I'm amazed she even started, let alone ran as well as she did. I used two different devices, one a standard compression gauge and the second was a 'cylinder leak measuring gauge', both with the 'wet' test as well as the dry. Both gauges gave me the same result. From the LHS it was 85, 150, 85, 85 PSI respectively. The wet test showed the rings are rooted on all except the second one (is that #2 or #3?).

Next question,  should I do the valves whilst the head is off? Probably should, but just checking. I will be doing the valve stem guide seals.

Another question, should I break open the carbies whilst she is in bits? I'm very nervous of doing that as I've NO experience with them (nor have I any experience taking the top end off and doing the rings/valves!!!!   ). I know where they are, and where the idle screw is, but that is it. It looks like they were opened at some time in the past.

Finally, as the rear is totally open should I attempt to service/rebuild the rear shock (and probably grease the linkages)? If so, I prefer a re-build, can I get a stronger spring on it (like I've done to the forks)?

Troyskie

Hi Troy

So you got an FZR wheel as opposed to the YZF wheel then ?
Did you read up on this mod from this post ? - don't know what the differences in those wheels are, but I did use the whole swingarm too which simplifies it somewhat but there is still some machining involved. 20mm is a fair bit though. was that with any spacers fitted ?

http://www.fjmods.co.uk/

[4everFJ]

Get the genuine Yamaha factory service manual if at all possible.

+1

I have both the factory SM and the Haynes.

The factory SM is so much better in practical use, but does require that you have some basic mechanical skills.

[Troyskie]

Hi Troy

So you got an FZR wheel as opposed to the YZF wheel then ?
Did you read up on this mod from this post ? - don't know what the differences in those wheels are, but I did use the whole swingarm too which simplifies it somewhat but there is still some machining involved. 20mm is a fair bit though. was that with any spacers fitted ?

http://www.fjmods.co.uk/

Nice suggestion Jools.

I rang Pete as he has done the FZR1000 rear mod & he kindly popped his rear wheel off to check the milling of the FZR wheel he has. We both have identical FZR1000 wheels aside from colour, so I now have the recipe to complete the rear 17x5.5" FZR rear mod. (Thanks Pete!). The only other difference on the wheels is they've updated the bearings between his and mine and use a stepped spacer. I'm pretty happy about that as popping the rear wheel back in is a cinch as the spacer self locates.

Other good news with the FZR mod is the brake disc uses an identical calliper, so no need to re-locate or re-hang the calliper, even uses the FJ calliper hanger and torque link.

To summarise Pete's recipe on a FZR1000 1990-1995 rear wheel I've include his notes. The sprocket carrier, sprocket carrier spacer, cush rubbers, hub cush rubber 'fingers' and the FJ calliper hanger require milling. Fortunately this is simple (for someone who knows, so obviously NOT me) milling on a lathe. An added benefit of these parts being milled is they are not contact surfaces, or load surfaces so machining shouldn't affect the structural integrity of the wheel. The calliper hanger contact face has 31 years of movement, so milling that is not a problem either.

Pete also went to the trouble of having his chain alignment professionally done so the measurements below should be accurate. I will likely need to lap the spacers for final perfection, but will wait till it's actually on and can do a real check.