North American Fj1200's new Aussie life

[Troyskie]

Test fit before clean.....perfect

[FJools]

check it again when the tyre is fitted Troy.............it looks a little close

[Troyskie]

Thanks Jools, by a little close do you mean where the tyre would be to the chain?

[Troyskie]

my guess work is that I'll be using a 170 instead of the preferred 180, but there is still some 'wiggle' room to shift the chain over a smidge.

[oldktmdude]

   Troy, if you can't run a 180, your wheel can't be centred correctly. If you had to change some of the machining dimensions that I gave you, the FZR spacers must be a different length to the original FJ spacers. I have the same rear wheel as you and I have 4 to 5mm chain to tyre clearance with a 180.
   Regards, Pete.

[Pat Conlon]

Some 180's are wider that others. Avons and Dunlops run wide. Michelins are ok.

[FJools]

Off topic I know but......

my mate just sent me a photo of a clean FJ1200 at Bodella M/C for $2500 full touring gear and very tidy. He reckons they will take $2200.

[Troyskie]

Did some work this weekend. Earned the brownie points in the garden, then wore out the kids, then I hit the shed.

The mission this weekend was to refit and check measure the rear. Then some kero cleaning.

Re fit of the swingarm went well. I've a fair bit of practice at it now and only takes a few minutes. There is about 12-13mm, or around 1/2 inch from the rim to the chain stud/rivet. I measured the old 180 tyre that came with the wheel it it hangs about 9-10mm past the rim seat so I think I'll be fine.

I'm making a new spacer for the sprocket carrier for it all to fit neat and tight. There will be a 2mm washer off the calliper hanger which will be fixed in place to avoid the 1 armed wallpaper hanger routine on putting the rear wheel back.

Then the fun part. As removing the engine is not convenient for me right now I decided to clean on the hoist with a Frankenstein style kero bath and pump. Here's the link https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=SgH25KyqbNM&feature=em-upload_owner
Worked brilliantly. Impeller fish tank pump (diaphragm won't last), garden hose, and 5 litres of kero. Total cost $30AUD for the under bed plastic box with lid and $15 for the kero.

Really happy with my new clean bike. Flushed the motor first, even the oil cooler.

Down side, kero really stinks.

I removed the oil pickup filter thingy and found some silastic stuff, but also some metal. Here's some pics. I've no idea where they came from.

[Troyskie]

Progress of a sort.....

Wellllllll, as I'm not lucky enough to live near RoverFJ or lucky enough to have time to travel to his place, I made sure I DID have some quality shed time with Yummy and Effie.

As even my wife had suggested, 'why don't you clean it up while everything is off...' and some forum suggestions have been 'Total resto..' (thanks Jools)..I've begun a clean-up.

Noel, new method. $40 rag wheel & rouge for drill. Nice high polish finish Hardley guys would like, but I'm after the satin finish that riceburners suit. However. My previous method took ages. My intended method is rag wheel, then wet-n-dry, waaaaaaaaay quicker. The wet-n-dry is now the finishing method instead of the only method. The rag wheel also removes scratches as well as wet-n-dry.

I've noted the later FJ's have a more highly polished finish on the aluminium parts than the early jobbies, particularly the 91 on. The earlier ones have a light linish then lacquer and the later models have a polish then lacquer. Also, highly polished looks darker than the linish finish as it picks up darker background reflections than the satin style, so the satin looks 'brighter'.

Most of the parts should be arriving in the next week or so & then the head is off to the shop for machining.

In the mean-time, I'll try to clean Yummy up some more. Not a full resto, but a solid clean and touch-up.

Next paint will be visible frame and rear wheel. Final paint will be the engine, once it's back together. I will be polishing the fin edges back so it looks ridgey-didgey.
Here's a couple of pics of the state to date....

[ribbert]

Noel, new method. $40 rag wheel & rouge for drill. Nice high polish finish Hardley guys would like, but I'm after the satin finish that riceburners suit.

You're right, I only use the rag wheel on the SS headers and mufflers. I don't need anything more to keep clean/polished.

This a clutch cover that was fairly knocked around, the finish is W&D (have to get the strokes uniform) and a thin coat of clear, zero maintenance. Don't let anyone tell you the lacquer yellows over time or goes motley or peels off, it doesn't.

   

                                    5 years ago                                                                                                      6 mths ago

Probably could have been a bit more aggressive with the W&D but it doesn't look quite that shiny in the light.


Noel

[Troyskie]

Progress!
Let me know if I'm wrong, but when you finally stop pulling things off the bike and start putting them on, is that half way home? Or am I just kidding myself?

A bit more rain & wind than normal stopped the kids sports or garden duties & with due permission I headed down the shed to see if Yummy was in the mood for love.

Turned out, no, she jus wanted some attention and needed me to finish fixing things. Ok.

Whilst I'm waiting for parts and then some head and barrel work I decided to tackle a few chores.

After 30 odd years of PO competence, ingenuity, and some sheer neglect I cleaned up some of the frame paint, polished, W&D & lacquered the footpeg brackets, touched up some other bits, and, here is were it gets optimistic...I actually started putting parts back on!!!!

Like I said, I'm not certain this is a mile-stone. I've never done this to a bike before. Sure I've paid to have it done, but it is waaaaay different skinning your own knuckles, making mistakes, measuring wrong etc.

Here's a summary of where I'm at after two full half shed days....

FZR1000 rear wheel mods complete. Chain and sprockets ordered. Old tyre going on to doubly triply check.
Parts on the way from Randy for the engine.
Swingarm cleaned up and ready to be put back on.
Rear shock is getting some love, but staying mostly standard (stiffer spring is all).
Several wiring bits still to do but nothing major.
Frame touched up but not fully painted.
Some black bits are now black again.
Footpeg brackets looking good (not great, but F!!@#it)

What is left to do...

Get the head machined and ready to put back on.
Barrels get honed/bored to suit the Wiseco kit.
More bits get turned black again.
Assemble.
Clean up the shitty paint on the fairing (polish before repaint me thinks).
Charge battery, fill the carbs & hope she wakes up.

Here's the pics....

[Troyskie]

More progress!

I finally had all the bits for the FZR1000 rear wheel conversion together and ready to be put on.

Swingarm installation is easy-peasy now & went without a hitch. It does make it easier that there is hardly anything on the bike getting in the way.

Wheel on, chain on, all good!

I then decided to acid test the new rear and popped it on the 1100 (should fit as the swingarms are identical).  all good.

A very tentative test ride, then a little more, feels good. I don't trust the tyre on it at the moment as it is the tyre the wheel came with from the wreckers & I have no idea how old it is. Also the 1100 still has the 16" front wheel on so I don't want to push it too hard.

Here's some pics....I also put one of those cruise control thingys on (testing out before the next rally)

[Troyskie]

There is NO space left, the 180 tyre is using up everything.

On the chain side the tyre just kisses the chain, and on the brake side the torsion bar has just a smidge of room.

[Troyskie]

  A big box o' bits from Randy just arrived.

I took the valves, guides, and springs over to the workshop, the head leaves for the specialist today & the barrels are being done this week.

Perhaps two weeks and I can start putting Yummy together.... I hope I can remember where it all goes.

Next bit of progress will be to put a stiffer spring in the rear shock.

[Troyskie]

Cam chain.
I think it's good, but does anyone know how to check if it's stretched?
Is there a certain number of links you measure?
I'd like to change it now while the head and barrels are off if it needs it.