My 1350 stranded me on the way to work

[giantkiller]

My 1350 died on the way to work. Put in neutral and it started. Put it in gear it dies. .mess with the kickstand switch in neutral it dies. Took it home on the truck. Couple days later I couldn't get it to start in neutral kickstand up. Jumped the kickstand terminals with a wire starts right up. Cool problem solved... Put it in gear it dies. What am I missing. (Not just killing the motor cuts everything)
Help I'm terrible with electrical problems.

[FJmonkey]

Dan, the symptoms you are describing are a bit wonky. But the issue seems to center on the side stand part of the safety system. I think the wires to the side stand may have an intermittent problem. With the clutch lever pulled back and the side stand down, putting it in gear will kill the ignition. If the side stand is up, then the bike still thinks the stand is down. Bypassing it works 100% if the wires are not damaged.

Errr, maybe more detail on "cuts everything".

[TexasDave]

Dan I'm with the Monkey on this one. I would have to look at all the items in the safety switch circuit. Neutral switch, clutch switch and swap the side stand relay out with another just to make sure that isn't the problem either.  Dave

[great white]

I agree that the sidestand switch circuit bears closer investigation.

Mine was also wonky. Sometimes it would work, sometimes die when droped in gear and sometimes just die when riding. All intermittently.

It died on me once when riding and i was stranded away from home. Nothing with me other than my phone and wallet. I whipped out the cheap set of pliers in the tool kit, snipped off the sidestand wires, twisted them together and rode home. Hasn't done any of the weird behaviour since.

Only thing is now i have to treat it like my older bikes and shut it off myself when stopping and remeber to pop the kick stand up before riding off.

If you want to try it and see if the switch is the problem but not cut the wires, just pop the connector open under the airbox horn and jump the pins/blades with a piece of wire. Even a paper clip will do. If it acts normally after jumping the wires, either replace the switch or make the jumper permanent....

[FJmonkey]

If you want to try it and see if the switch is the problem but not cut the wires, just pop the connector open under the airbox horn and jump the pins/blades with a piece of wire. Even a paper clip will do. If it acts normally after jumping the wires, either replace the switch or make the jumper permanent....

I spoke with Dan last night and he did jump out the switch at the upper connector. And it still kills the ignition when shifting into gear. So the problem is not that simple. He will test the clutch switch since it is easy and then can be eliminated from the diagnostic. I am sure Dan will post up after work when he tests the clutch switch.

[giantkiller]

Dan I'm with the Monkey on this one. I would have to look at all the items in the safety switch circuit. Neutral switch, clutch switch and swap the side stand relay out with another just to make sure that isn't the problem either.  Dave

Hey Dave is there a relay for the side stand? Or are you talking about the switch itself?
Like Mark said I eliminated the switch. The problem is some where before the connector for the switch.

[TexasDave]

The side stand relay is small relay under the seat close to the digital ignitor. It has one black/white wire going to the ignitor and a black and blue/yellow wire to the sidestand switch and a red/white to the relay unit.   Dave

[fjfool]

i think there is a diode to "one way" some current in that system
also, try this:
blast the shit outa your sidestand switch with some carb cleaner
i experience this issue with a friend, it was uncanny- between 4300-4500RPM the vibration was just enough to cut that switch
after some research, i found that this is a fairly common issue

[great white]

i think there is a diode to "one way" some current in that system
also, try this:
blast the shit outa your sidestand switch with some carb cleaner
i experience this issue with a friend, it was uncanny- between 4300-4500RPM the vibration was just enough to cut that switch
after some research, i found that this is a fairly common issue

Worth a try for sure.

But i did the same thing with mine a while back and recovered the sidestand switch function.

About 2 months later the problem came back so i just made a jumper plug out of the switch harness and no further problems since.

Insure do miss being able to shut the bike off by swinging out the kickstand though....

[giantkiller]

The side stand relay is small relay under the seat close to the digital ignitor. It has one black/white wire going to the ignitor and a black and blue/yellow wire to the sidestand switch and a red/white to the relay unit.   Dave

Thanks Dave. Will try that and check the clutch switch after work late tonight. 12hrs shift.

[fj1289]

Sounds like my 89 when I bought it.  The PO had if half disassembled trying to get it to run.  He worked with industrial heating/cooling control systems.  When I got the bike home and could see where he had probed the harness to troubleshoot I was pretty sure I was in deep trouble if he couldn't figure it out. 

I ended up bypassing BOTH the sidestand switch and the clutch switch -- then was good to go.  Stayed that way for 14 years or so until I rewired the entire bike. 

[Firehawk068]

This sounds like the clutch switch to me.

Normally, it will start in neutral without pulling in the clutch, but it will not start in gear unless you have the clutch pulled in.

If it is killing it as soon as you drop it in gear, it thinks you don't have the clutch pulled in?

If you already bypassed the side-stand switch, then it is most likely the clutch switch.

[giantkiller]

This sounds like the clutch switch to me.

Normally, it will start in neutral without pulling in the clutch, but it will not start in gear unless you have the clutch pulled in.

If it is killing it as soon as you drop it in gear, it thinks you don't have the clutch pulled in?

If you already bypassed the side-stand switch, then it is most likely the clutch switch.

Yes but, it initially happened while riding down the highway. Killed the ignition. Already in gear already started... But I'm going to start with that tonight.

[Firehawk068]

This sounds like the clutch switch to me.

Normally, it will start in neutral without pulling in the clutch, but it will not start in gear unless you have the clutch pulled in.

If it is killing it as soon as you drop it in gear, it thinks you don't have the clutch pulled in?

If you already bypassed the side-stand switch, then it is most likely the clutch switch.

Yes but, it initially happened while riding down the highway. Killed the ignition. Already in gear already started... But I'm going to start with that tonight.

OK, that makes sense. Clutch safety switch only works with the crank/starter circuit, not with the ignition/running circuit?

[Pat Conlon]

Check your run/stop handlebar switch. That's a normally closed circuit (runs in the closed position)
That circuit that runs through the switch powers your ignition module.

Bypass this switch to see if it helps. Don't cut anything.
You can run power directly from your fuse block (via jumper wire) to the appropriate wire at the plug at the ignition module. Carefully skin back the insulation on the wire about 2" from the plug.. Easily reversible.