Front fork adjustment

[4everFJ]

Hi,

Tried to adjust preload and damping on my front forks.

The preload adjusts fine (pushing down and turning) in the 3 steps available.

However, the damping adjustment (the inner screw) just turns and turns in either direction with no noticeable resistance. There are no end stops. Is this normal? If so, how do you know how much you have adjusted it?

Thanks

[Firehawk068]

I believe it will just keep turning in either direction, with no stops.

There should be a (red?) mark or dot on the screw. You line it up with the correct position on the fork cap. (1,2,or 3)

[4everFJ]

OK thanks, that makes sense, but there is no mark on the fork cap?

This is the description from the User manual. It doesn't say anything about position 1, 2, 3 (that is only for the preload). It just says to turn it CW or CCW:

[4everFJ]

OK, I figured it out...

The cap has three marks each a different width. These marks are used to line up the preload and damping adjusters.

Problem on mine is that some PO has screwed alignment up when assembling the forks, so it is sort of guesswork what I am adjusting... 

[FJ1100mjk]

OK, I figured it out...

Problem on mine is that some PO has screwed alignment up when assembling the forks.

Not assembling the D-shaped rod into its same shaped mating hole is easily done. What can also be overlooked easily (especially if the fork oil covers it), is that the D-shaped holes are not oriented/related the same to each other and the rebound adjustments are not indexed properly. Of course, unless this is what you mean by "alignment".

Putting in fork valves (RPM, or ?), and the obligatory stiffer straight-rate springs, and correct weight oil at correct level, not only does away with the need for the OEM rebound adjustment gizmo, but makes the action of the front way better. It's only money. 

[4everFJ]

OK, I figured it out...

Problem on mine is that some PO has screwed alignment up when assembling the forks.

Not assembling the D-shaped rod into its same shaped mating hole is easily done. What can also be overlooked easily (especially if the fork oil covers it), is that the D-shaped holes are not oriented/related the same to each other and the rebound adjustments are not indexed properly. Of course, unless this is what you mean by "alignment".

Putting in fork valves (RPM, or ?), and the obligatory stiffer straight-rate springs, and correct weight oil at correct level, not only does away with the need for the OEM rebound adjustment gizmo, but makes the action of the front way better. It's only money. 

Yeah, I have plenty of no money... 

I will just pull them apart and align everything correctly. According to PO, they already have progressive springs fitted. Not perfect, but better than the OE springs anyway..