Fuel leaked in the crankcase

[balky1]

A bit of update. Yesterday my float needle and seat finally arrived. Changed them without any problems and checked the float level. Night before I sprayed the float retainer pin with some WD-40 and it went out like nothing. By the way, you should have seen the junk on the mesh on the float needle seat. It looked alive! I don't even know how was I able to ride. And I mean ride without any problems on trips of 500+ kilometers.
I put the carbs provisionally on to be able to feed the fuel from the tank since I don't have any auxiliary tank and really hadn't had the time to make one. Turned it to PRI and left, no leaks anywhere. That might be a good sign (prior to changing the float needle and seat it would already leak) but I won't be sure until I start the engine and check what happens. And then it was dark so I couldn't do anything else since I'm doing this on the street in front of my apartment building. And I'm a bit of tourist attraction. Some Japanese guy came by to admire and talked how he is doing the same things. 
And yes, I sewed a sock like thing to put on the petcock screen out of my 63 micron mesh. Will see how that works. Pictures will be posted later when I put all back on the bike, that's a priority.
Today's plan is to mount the carbs, change the oil and start the bike to check fuel levels in the bowls. If all goes well, change all the fuel and vacuum lines with new hoses and that's it! Fingers crossed! 

[balky1]

OK, so I didn't expect all to go smoothly and it didn't. I put the carbs back on, only things I tampered with were floats, I adjusted them to the specs (raised them cca. 1 mm each) and I changed that one needle and seat. Same as the OEM.
And here are the problems. It starts great on full choke but when choke is lowered cca. half way it starts to misfire sometimes. Things get worse when I let it idle if it idles at all. When I open the throttle bike chokes until it dies. When I manage to rev it I see fuel mist coming out of carbs 1 and 2 (air box not installed). I thought it was rich and raised the floats 2 or 3 times for 1 mm, still the same. Now I am wondering why I even messed with the floats that were working properly. All floats were some 3 mm lower (i.e. richer) than they are set now.
Do you think I leaned it too much? My logic says I wouldn't see the fuel mist if the carbs were lean but I don't know much about carbs so my logic is probably wrong. Tomorrow I'll try to set them as they were. I couldn't get it to idle long enough to check the fuel levels. I checked it with engine turned off and tap on PRI. It looks fine.

[Pat Conlon]

I hoped that is the problem, set all floats to 23 mm, but leaks still. So I ordered new float valve and seat to get rid of the problems.....

Did you Replace all of your float needle seat o rings?  You need to, they dry out, loose their seals and leak.

Well... No.

So, if you replaced 1 float needle seat, what makes you think the other 3 o rings are not leaking?

[jscgdunn]

A few things from my experience:

The airbus needs to be on for it run right

Fuel mist is normal...however with the airbox on you will not see it.

I generally replace all the needle and seat valves when cleaning the carbs...just to sure.

I have rebuilt four sets and the floats were always fine except on one set that had molested by someone with a bad Phillips screwdriver.

Have you synchronized the carbs since you reinstalled?

Jeff 

[balky1]

I hoped that is the problem, set all floats to 23 mm, but leaks still. So I ordered new float valve and seat to get rid of the problems.....

Did you Replace all of your float needle seat o rings?  You need to, they dry out, loose their seals and leak.

Well... No.

So, if you replaced 1 float needle seat, what makes you think the other 3 o rings are not leaking?

Carbs are not flooding when I turn the tap on PRI. Fuel levels look fine and stay constant. That's why I'm think the rest are OK. Is my logic correct?

[balky1]

A few things from my experience:

The airbus needs to be on for it run right

Fuel mist is normal...however with the airbox on you will not see it.

I generally replace all the needle and seat valves when cleaning the carbs...just to sure.

I have rebuilt four sets and the floats were always fine except on one set that had molested by someone with a bad Phillips screwdriver.

Have you synchronized the carbs since you reinstalled?

Jeff 

I thought it could be it so I put it on once, same thing. I haven't synched them, again my (wrong) logic told me that wouldn't be necessary since I didn't touch anything else than floats.

[balky1]

Thanks for trying guys. I'll try one or two more things today and if they don't work will try to synch them and eventualy change all float valves and seats because otherwise I'm going to freak out. 

[balky1]

I tryed to lower the floats to get it richer. Somewhat better now but still with a bit of misfires and not a good throttle response. I found out today that the carb I changed the needle and seat in has lower fuel level than the other 3, with floats set the same.
So like Pat Conlon said in the first place I need to replace all 4 needles and seats because there is obviously some minor difference in the new one and the old ones. Made by Keyster (I think, not sure), Japan.

[Pat Conlon]

I did not say you have to replace the float needle seat assemblies ($$$) They are expensive.
Just take them out. Clean them. Look for abnormal needle tip wear. Clean the screens.

......and replace the O rings.

[balky1]

I did not say you have to replace the float needle seat assemblies ($$$) They are expensive.
Just take them out. Clean them. Look for abnormal needle tip wear. Clean the screens.

......and replace the O rings.

One assembly for under 7€ from Germany. Not more expensive than my nerves.

[Pat Conlon]

Good price...go for it!

The float needle seat assemblies are ~ $18.50 ea. here in the states. http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Carb%3AFloatValveG&cat=24

Also to remember:

The float needle seat assemblies come in 2 flavors. The 2.3mm size for your gravity fed '85 and the smaller 1.5mm size for the later '89+ fuel pump bikes.
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=9836.0

Make sure you get the right size for your bike.

[balky1]

Good price...go for it!

The float needle seat assemblies are ~ $18.50 ea. here in the states. http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Carb%3AFloatValveG&cat=24

Also to remember:

The float needle seat assemblies come in 2 flavors. The 2.3mm size for your gravity fed '85 and the smaller 1.5mm size for the later '89+ fuel pump bikes.
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=9836.0

Make sure you get the right size for your bike.

It is 2.3, that was first thing I checked.
Here's the link should anyone ever need something. http://www.biketeile-service.de/ I don't know is the final price cheaper when it gets in the States, but for EU members it is good.

[balky1]

Aaaaand after all the trouble, my baby got back home. 

[Shane4371]

Haven't read this whole thread but to be sure the gravity /vacuum operated petcock is shutting off.simply remove the fuel line let excess fuel purge out.and simply wait 10/15 mins and watch to see of you see dripping.if so it's bad.