Valve adjustment on an '85

[FJools]

today I had a go at the valve clearances on my 92 3XW.

All is good until I come to use the special tool I got from RPM. No matter how I install the tool (and I tried several times) it won't hold the shim bucket down enough to get the shim out when the cam lobe is rotated out of the way after holding the valve open to install the tool.

Is there a trick to using this device ? it seems simple enough but it appears not to be doing its job............??

[Arnie]

Its sometimes tricky to get the tool onto the lip of the bucket and not also on the shim.
You also have to try and get it so the notch in the bucket (lifter actually) is accessable.
Use a magnet to help get the shim out.  There will be a film of oil between the shim and bucket that frequently makes it difficult to get them separated.  In fact, if you use a magnet and a pointed tool to help lift the shim you may find it easier.

You are installing the tool when the valve is fully depressed, right?  Once the tool is in place, you rotate the engine so the lobe is away from the shim and you can then remove it.

Arnie

[FJools]

Thanks for the quick reply Arnie

I can flip the shim up ok but it hits the cam.

What is happening is the bucket comes up as the cam is rotated back till it hits the tool. The shim pops up at the front but doesn't clear the recess of the bucket.
Its almost like the tool tip isn't long enough. (it doesn't help that I can't see what I'm doing) maybe sucking the oil out of there will help see otherwise the cams are coming out !

[Arnie]

Yes, its sometimes frustrating.  Sucking the oil out so you can see will help.
You need to put pressure on the tool to get it to stay in place as you tighten the screw.  Are you having this problem with all the valves or just #3 ?

Using a magnet (like on the end of a scriber) you should be able to drag/slide the shim out sideways.

Worst case scenario is that you may have to lift the cams, but you really want to avoid that if possible.

Thanks for the quick reply Arnie

I can flip the shim up ok but it hits the cam.

What is happening is the bucket comes up as the cam is rotated back till it hits the tool. The shim pops up at the front but doesn't clear the recess of the bucket.
Its almost like the tool tip isn't long enough. (it doesn't help that I can't see what I'm doing) maybe sucking the oil out of there will help see otherwise the cams are coming out !

[FJools]

ok
Thanks for all the help Arnie,

sucking the oil out helped and I got the shim out - with a bit more applied force  #270. Ideally I need a 275 so I can see where this is all going 

My shim kit only goes up in 0. 10mm so with a measured gap of 0.16 at 1A inlet I can't do an awful lot. Are the 0.05 increment shims available ?

Now I now what's happening I can at least record everything for future reference.

[Arnie]

Good to hear you've progressed. :-)

Yes, the 0.05 mm shims are available. 
If you've got a "friendly" Yamaha, Honda, or Toyota shop,
they may be willing to swap shims for the ones you no longer need. 
If not for free, maybe $5 each for the swap.
There is rarely any wear on the shims, but some shade tree mechanics
will try to adjust a shim with a file or grinder. 
Therefore, measure each shim no matter what the marking says.

I think Randy (RPM) actually has 0.025 increment shims. (for those OCD valve setters out there)

Interesting that your gap has increased from the previous time they were set. 
Usually the gap becomes smallerr as the valve resescion continues.

Arnie

[FJools]

Intakes ranged from 0.10 - 0.16mm. exhausts 0.12 - 0.18mm.

I managed to shift a few around and only actually used about 4 new shims from Randy's shim kit !

I still need to change 8 to be "comfortably" within spec. (and join the OCD club LOL)

But as it stands its better than it was and I now have the information should I ever have to check them again in my lifetime 

[ribbert]

I still need to change 8 to be "comfortably" within spec. (and join the OCD club LOL)

OCD is getting them milled to exactly spec.

Noel