running problems

[FJ_Hooligan]

How do you have the plug wires routed? 

Which coils to which cylinders?

[racerrad8]

When you say that your plugs are now "dry fouled" do you mean wet with gas?

I would guess he mean there is enough carbon build up that the spark is not jumping the gap and following the carbon to ground without a spark.

http://www.ngk-sparkplugs.jp/english/techinfo/troubleshooting/03/index.html

I new set of spark plugs will fix that.

Randy - RPM

[Pat Conlon]

Very good, thanks Randy!

Love this place

[Flynt]

My 1984 FJ1100 (stock + 4-1 RPM exhaust + Unipods + 4 degrees of advance):

Mains 117.5 (max power)
Needles 1mm out (need another .5mm, still lean surge at WOT in the midrange)
Pilot/Air 42.5/160 (uniform low range,  best transition to midrange)
Floats .7mm lower (lower fuel level, to clean up low range fatness)

Your sizes just look way low to me.  I'm not sure why, but the 1100 motor appears to want fuel to run right.  I set this up with 3 runs through the Factory Pro method.

Frank

[ribbert]

I would guess he mean there is enough carbon build up that the spark is not jumping the gap and following the carbon to ground without a spark.

http://www.ngk-sparkplugs.jp/english/techinfo/troubleshooting/03/index.html

I new set of spark plugs will fix that.

Randy - RPM

If they're just dirty, clean them. Even cheap plugs should be good for 20,000 miles, iridium or platinum plugs more miles than you're ever likely to rack up .
If they have done significantly less than that you are throwing money in the bin if you replace them just because they're dirty.

Noel

[krusty]

I'll tell you a little story about plugs. My next door neighbour had rebuilt a RM125 for his son. He was having trouble getting it to run and said that it was killing plugs. The thing was bogging down and cutting out after running for a short while on full throttle. He'd replaced about 8 or 9 plugs at about 15 bucks a hit before he called me over to have a look at the bike.
He was also having trouble getting it to idle and this was the first thing I looked at and found the air screw needed adjusting. Got it to idle ok with no hesitation when the throttle was "blipped". I checked the plug and he had replaced the expensive race (OEM) plug with and ordinary one, a NGK B9ES I think it was.
I asked if he had one of the 'dead' plugs and checked it for spark. Nothing. I then got him to kick the motor over while I looked down inside the plug and I could see a faint spark deep within. Fouled plug!
Then I asked him what oil he was using and he said the same as what was in his mower and chain saw and weed whacker. An aha moment. He had a shop manual and when I had a look at it it recommended a full synthetic race oil. I says there's your problem. I cleaned all his 'dead' plugs for him and he went got some of the correct oil and the engine now runs perfect.
Big lesson here? READ THE FRICKIN MANUAL.
And dirty plugs can be cleaned and re used. He now has a lifetime supply.

[FJmonkey]

RTFM....

[ribbert]

I'll tell you a little story about plugs......

Prior to electronic ignition and fuel injection, cleaning and re gapping plugs was standard procedure (as per any manufacturers schedule) on intermediate services. Every workshop had a plug cleaning machine/tester. I imagine only long established garages would still have one these days.
I have still have an old one I use occasionally with old cars and small engine equipment.

I changed my last set of standard plugs after 40,000km and was disappointed it made not one iota of difference to starting or running.

Noel

[badams]

Re-engaged the bike last night after walking away for a while.

The bike will not start now.

Went through the carbs again- good

voltage to the coils and IC unit- good

have a side stand bypass installed

primary and secondary coils resistance- good

pick up coils measures out at 163ish ohms. This is out of spec with both my repair manuals. I measured my parts bike pick up coils and measured the same.

Am I doing something wrong with measuring?

[movenon]

Run/stop switch ?
George

[Pat Conlon]

Re: Pick up coils....Both Clymer and Haynes manuals are wrong.
I went through this last year: http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=13448.0
The Genuine Yamaha Service Manual (GYSM) is what you should use which specifies 149-183 ohms at 68*F

Good news: Your pick up coils are fine.

As George says above^^ check your run/stop switch. The power to your ignition box runs through this switch.

[FJmonkey]

The bike will not start now.

Does it turn over but not start? Or won't turn over?

[FJ1100mjk]

As George says above^^ check your run/stop switch. The power to your ignition box runs through this switch.

He cleaned/checked the kill switch on 07/25, see page one of two. And he's stated that voltage to the IC is "good".

[movenon]

As George says above^^ check your run/stop switch. The power to your ignition box runs through this switch.

He cleaned/checked the kill switch on 07/25, see page one of two. And he's stated that voltage to the IC is "good".

I was just making sure it wasn't bumped in the "Stop" position. Stranger things have happened. 

Back to Marks question  "Does it turn over but not start? Or won't turn over?"

As a note, "Capn Ron" had a no start problem once and when he used a timing light (remember those) on number 1 plug wire and checking the firing at the timing rotor and found it out of time.  He had to replace the TCI/DCI unit.  Also a good way to see if you are getting any voltage to the plug.  Ron can elaborate, I am going from memory of he post.

George

[Capn Ron]

As a note, "Capn Ron" had a no start problem once and when he used a timing light (remember those) on number 1 plug wire and checking the firing at the timing rotor and found it out of time.  He had to replace the TCI/DCI unit.  Also a good way to see if you are getting any voltage to the plug.  Ron can elaborate, I am going from memory of he post.

George

Yeah, you got that recollection right, George.  Like the OP, I systematically went through each and every system trying to sort out the problem.  I learned a lot in the process and even added the coil relay mod because I thought the spark looked weak.  Ultimately, it turned out to be a failing ignitor and some superhero (okay, it was Randy) mailed one across the country for me to use for the rest of my trip.

That all being said, my symptoms were different.  When it did start, the bike would run like a top!  When it didn't start...well, that was really it.  It would crank, but not ever run.  On some random attempt, it'd fire right up and run perfectly until I shut it down 150 miles later for fuel.  The timing light helped me identify that on the non-start occasions, the ignitor was choosing to start the timing at 180* off.

I read through this thread and the only thing I could come up with that hasn't already been covered is spark plugs.  Hold on, hold on...before this is dismissed right away (as the cleaning of the plugs has been discussed)...I had an odd issue with another Yamaha engine.  Had a Yamaha SX230 jet boat with twin marinized R1 engines.  Ran just great!  Good lord that thing was fast!  As I was getting up to speed on the YamahaJetBoaters forum, I kept seeing this recurring response to just about ANY engine related issues.  The collective would jump in and bark, "CHANGE the spark plugs!"  Most of the seasoned forum members even kept a spare set of 8 on board.  Huh?  I mean, what can go wrong with a spark plug?  About 6 months later, i was buzzing across Lake Piru and my starboard engine started cutting out...this manifested it self with sputtering, lurching and a hard pull to the right.  I limped it back to shore and home.  I changed the spark plugs and problem SOLVED!  Apparently there's a fine wire inside the Irridium plugs that breaks...sometimes the wire will touch...sometimes there's a gap.  With essentially a second gap in the plug, there isn't much left over for the intended spark gap.  I asked my brother if the R1 forum talked about this at all being as we were using the same engine.  Nope.  He'd never heard of such a thing.

With as much effort, frustration and down-time already involved with this problem, plugs can be changed out cheaply and easily and that can be eliminated along with the other systems already checked off the list.  If there's a spare ignitor lying around that you could even just temporarily swap in, that could be eliminated as well.

Best of luck...these can be VERY frustrating!