Ride Report

[ribbert]

I went for a ride a couple of weeks back.

My usual interest is hunting out great bitumen and avoiding traffic but this time I went somewhere different - The Outback.
It is impossible to describe or adequately photograph the magic of the Australian Outback so I won't even try but there is no place on earth like it and the most spectacular way to get there is via the Flinders Ranges.

The first 1000km's or so was over familiar and well travelled roads. Single digit temps and squalls all day did not bode well as fine weather was needed to reach my destination.

Turning right a few Km's before Port Augusta (the best way to visit Port Augusta!) towards Quorn, the the dreary slab I had spent the morning on gave way to fabulous twisties. The cattle grid and the "You are now entering unfenced country" sign along with the change in vegetation, unique to this part of the country, left no doubt we had left civilisation behind.
Our destination that night was Wilpena Pound (below).



To give some ideal of the scale of this place, the picture below is a road we travelled inside part of the rim.



This shot was taken within minutes of leaving the next morning, just as the sun was creeping through the cracks in the mountains.



We headed North to Blinman then Parachilna on fairly tight dirt. Floodways were often so close together it was like riding a roller coaster. Recent rain had left the bottom of them wet. As the roads are clay, the dips were treacherously slippery. I soon figured out that if you hit them fast enough, the bike could only get so far out of shape before hitting the dry stuff on the other side. It was either this or paddle through at walking pace with both feet down.

Crossings like this helped keep the mud build up in check.



We were obliged to hit the bitumen again at Parachilna to reach our next destination, the Vulkathunya-Gammon Ranges.

The "Prairie Hotel" at Parachilna is the one of only two buildings that make up the town and a relic from from bullock dray days.

Doesn't it just make your mouth water?






Bangers and Mash, Outback style


(the scones had Quandong jam on them, and outback thing)

Back on the road we made the most of the bitumen and sat on 160kph plus all the way to Copley on roads like this



and did not see a single vehicle. The roads are in excellent shape, no pot holes, not even repaired pot holes (lack of use maybe) a lovely mix of straights and magnificent high speed sweepers.
The floodways on this road were great fun, at 160 the suspension would bottom in the dip and you could feel your stomach rise over the top.

As soon as we turned onto the dirt we were confronted by this sign.



Search and rescue is very expensive up here and travelling these roads in unsuitable weather almost a guarantee you will need it. The penalties are strictly applied and "severe" translates to a whopping $5000.
It said nothing about motor bikes so off we went.

This country blew me away.





Once I got a feel for the colour and grade of the loose stuff, these hard packed clay roads could be ridden at a decent speed. The biggest trap was muddy tyre tracks, even shallow ones. If they were wet, is was like ice, if it was dry they set like concrete which was even worse. On some sections, it was like riding a plank width track between the two.

As it turned out, that car we saw earlier in the day ended being the only one we saw all day. We had all this to our selves.



Breaking out of the hills onto vast plains with mountains in the distance was very Jurassic Park like, I would not have been surprised to see dinosaurs romping about.

This nights destination was Arkaroola, that's another whole story. Both here and Wilpena are world famous for various reasons so despite their remote location, the accommodation and facilities reflect that. Their remoteness is reflected in their prices!

I have not seen a night sky like this for 40 years (they have an observatory there) So many stars it didn't look real.

My brother spent much time spruiking the wonders of the GS for this sort of trip. I don't recall a single moment anywhere I couldn't have taken him on the FJ.




Not much grip to be had a these temps.




Some roads were rougher than others.




I have never seen terrain change so abruptly. One minute you are cruising through the hills, you round a corner and ........



Photographic equipment included a couple of stock photos, a point and shoot that is water proof and lives in my jacket pocket, my phone which takes way better pictures than my camera but is not water proof, a compressed and emailed photo and my brother's camera that I think cost more than my bike.

The FJ used 500ml of oil in the first 1000km's and none for the next 3000km. We also had a few more hours at 160+  on the way home trying to beat the dark after being held up in a single servo town that had no power (just the servo) The owner had kindly offered to drive a one hour trip to get fuel in drums from the nearest town. Just after he left the electrician turned up restored power within 30 mins.
The last two hours of the day was spent riding at 50 - 60 kph at night through really bad roo country. This didn't eliminate the risk of hitting one, it just meant it probably wouldn't kill you.
I was absolutely exhausted after that.
We had two huge days to get home and I must admit by the evening of the second day, for the first time ever, I wished I had the BMW under me, but it only lasted till I got home.

Noel

[FJ_Hooligan]

Awesome Noel!

Sounds like an incredible journey.  Stunning scenery!

[movenon]

Great post and pictures Noel !  I like how your bike was packed  .  If I did that nothing would go back on correctly the next day.  I also enjoy open spaces with no traffic.  I bit of heresy here but I enjoy the long isolated roads of Nevada .
George

[jscgdunn]

Great report Noel....you are the official guide if I ever get down under.  I see an "FJ Adventure" modification the future.


Jeff 

[TexasDave]

Great ride report Noel. Beautiful scenery. Amazing roads to ride on an FJ. Looks like you have everything but the kitchen sink on the back of that FJ. Just finished breakfast but with the food pictures I am hungry already. Dave

[Firehawk068]

Awesome adventure Noel!
Thanks for sharing.
The pictures are superb! 

[RD56]

Other worldly for the uninitiated Stateside. Fantastic pics. Thanks for the tour. ------ Rick

[roverfj1200]

The FJ is not the first pick of bike for such travels but it is amazing what you can do on one..

Cheers

[FJmonkey]

Beautiful country, I hope to visit and enjoy the land we call down under....

[Troyskie]

Nice one Noel. My Bro & I we talking about a trip as well, but reminded each other we're not 20 anymore, those 1000k days would be pretty hard on my dodgey shoulder!
Awesome images mate.

[BSI]

Noel...that's incredible scenery and I love all the different roads you got to ride. Thanks for sharing.

[aviationfred]

Thank you for sharing. Looks like an incredible trip. Great photos.


Fred

[Arnie]

Wow!! Fantastic trip and amazing pics.
I guess that proves that FJs are not restricted to paved roads.
Maybe it'll become the next fashion in Adventure Bikes :-)

[Bones]

Great pics Noel, This country has some fantastic scenery if your prepared to get out there and travel to see it.
I've said it once and I'll say it again, you need knobby tyres on that thing , not sure if they come in a 180 though, might handle like a pig on the bitumen, but imagine the size of the rooster tails you'll be throwing in the dirt.  

[Zwartie]

Fantastic report, Noel! You get an A+ for sure. Nice to see I'm not the only one crazy (stupid) enough to ride an FJ on roads where it was never intended to go.

Zwartie