FJ1200 with a bit of Exup ru and a bit of R1 big bang

[PaulG]

I would like to come up with some time-old adage, but it would probably come across as a half-assed malapropism.     Keep plugging away at it.  Looking forward to your results.   

[candieandy]

Hi Copper just had a look at that set up and looks to have a multitude of possibilities. One difference on the later R1 which I have is the dog bone is wing arm side and triangles are mounted to the frame, however, that should not affect the way they work as long as you get the geometry right. I can see on Candieandy's set up the use of the adjustable dog bone with rose joints same as I have made but I can't see bearings for the bolts / pivot point for the triangle on the arm, possibly built into the spacer? I will have to ask.   

Hey Russ,

My set-up is really incorrect in comparison to how Yamaha has designed the rear suspension on the R1. The OE and best leverage ratio is 2:1 for the R1. That means the shock moves twice as far as the rear swing arm travel. It took me some testing/research to figure it out. It works, but my leverage ratio is way off the chart. Like 2.6:1 or 3.2:1. so I bolted in a really nice SACHs shock ( from Aprilia RSV1000 Mille) and cranked the preload on a 1100Lb spring. Needless to say, the shock internals are stock and it handles it, but not as well as the original spring. it works fine for 1up, but 2up nearly bottoms out on really hard bumps. I'm actually planning to redesign it more like the set-up you are running and will report back.

Have you had a chance to do any testing yet on your suspension set-up?

Andrew

[Russfjr1]

OK well after reaching rock bottom then time in hospital with a pulmonary embolism plus a load of other crap going on I think it's time to start on the fj again, went into the workshop everything covered in a foot of dust (well 1/8" possibly) so doors open start the compressor and blow it all away    Wow just as I left it, tools and parts still left on the workbench from months ago now I have to try and figure out what I have done or not done. Right, first things first put kettle on make coffee and start work on the rear suspension ... dog bones and triangles with a 2 : 1 ratio, got myself a 6" x 12" x 1" billet of aluminium to make it all from time to measure, calculate, machine and see if it works.  Post again soon  Russ        

[PaulG]

Good to see your back in the saddle again, so to speak.  Looking forward to your progress.  BTW - that's not dust - it's patina!    Stay healthy. 

[FJools]

I just caught up with this thread Russ and am well impressed.

I like the work on the fairing - always wondered how a twin headlight set up could be
made to fit the Std fairing as I like the original lines and protection it offers.

Fantastic skills and imagination. Keep it going as it has to be the best way to stay above the black dog mate.

I hope to hear of it getting a maiden run out soon.

Keep up the compelling read 

[Russfjr1]

I just caught up with this thread Russ and am well impressed.

I like the work on the fairing - always wondered how a twin headlight set up could be
made to fit the Std fairing as I like the original lines and protection it offers.

Fantastic skills and imagination. Keep it going as it has to be the best way to stay above the black dog mate.

I hope to hear of it getting a maiden run out soon.

Keep up the compelling read 

Thanks for all the kind thoughts and comments

[Russfjr1]

OK so over the past couple of days it's been scratching head thinking about the rear suspension linkage and this is what I have come up with, billet of aluminum (aircraft of course ) and a ratio of 2 : 1 ish   take a look.  It still needs finishing off but it's 25mm thick and the bearings being used are 24mm od with 12mm id  one each side with spacer. Instead of having them sit in the alloy I have made two stainless bushes for them 1" od pipe bored out to 24mm,  then I have a rose joint to attach to the swing arm this should take care of any misalignment issues, if not with it being 25mm I can afford to machine some off to gain alignment. 

[Russfjr1]

The other thing I have been working on is that with a few minor changes / adjustments I think I can get a 200 tyre on the back, the 6" rim will take it just a matter of playing with the chain again.  Looking at the project it's not to far away from test ride and if that's all good strip it down paint the frame and motor finish the fairing mounts and it's on the road just in time for winter oh well who said life was fair .... but it's ok we have global warming happy days.  

[Russfjr1]

Question to others who have done this conversion, when doing the rear suspension linkages how far out of line were yours? frame and shock is a given to be good but the swing arm is out (to be somewhat expected).  However it is only off by 6mm is this the norm? I thought it would be more! Anyway junking the rose joints and making a dog leg connecting arm with needle bearings, the rose joints after much looking, thinking, and the like I don't feel they would cope over time whereas needle rollers are made to do that job so I have kept it all inline and square (via dog leg). Again I have machined it from billet ally and the bearing are to be sitting in stainless inserts, mk1 will have no adjustment it's just going to be proof of concept, should it all work ok after the first few hundred miles it will be pulled and re-made but this time totally adjustable, at that time I will also re-make any other parts that I am not happy with.  Talk soon Russ   

[FJools]

The only comment I can come with, having not done this specific conversion, is that to prevent the bearings from pushing out of the plates with any unusual side loads they would be better being a blind fit to the outer faces. Could be a nasty consequence if they did move.

[Russfjr1]

The only comment I can come with, having not done this specific conversion, is that to prevent the bearings from pushing out of the plates with any unusual side loads they would be better being a blind fit to the outer faces. Could be a nasty consequence if they did move.

Sorry but i think I did not make it clear in order to maintain alignment I have made a dogleg arm this enables the forces pulling on the bearings to be at 90* (square) to the bearings at all times so never pulling one way or the other. I am not putting a straight arm with rose joints to make up for the alignment issue but as said a dogleg so all bearings have a even pull on them

[Russfjr1]

First time rolled out of the workshop! Nothing is bolted down as yet but I needed it outside to stand back and take a good look and sit on it  ride height good to the original rear suspension a bit hard but the preload can adjust for that, overall I think it looks ok.  Get the paint finished, re-cover the seat, mount both sides of the exhaust so it will have four pipes at the rear, go over all the nuts and bolts then test ride  .  All easy said just waiting now for the next thing to hold me back.     C'est la vie

[Russfjr1]

The centre stand will need to be modified but that's an easy fix, in the photo looking down to the handle bars you can see it's on full lock to the left leaving loads of clearance between bars and fairing. The wheelbase and increased to 63" or 1600.2 cm and I think it looks good for that bit of extra length. Still loads to do apart from what I said above I need to modify the fairing / headlight brackets!  Fun times ahead.  Russ

[jscgdunn]

I just leave center stand off... easy to bolt up for service if required. 

[Russfjr1]

I just leave center stand off... easy to bolt up for service if required. 

I could just take it off but you can guarantee if I did that first time out I would need it, puncture or chain issues or anything else on the rear that having that stand would make life so much better. Besides it's only one more line to add to the list of things to be done     that will be line 1782  not really, in reality most of the work is done and if I could spend the time on it this could be on the road by Saturday / Sunday but so many other things make that impossible