valve clearance

[FJmonkey]

** I kinda figured that, that's why I mentioned it. It guess I was kind of practicing for my future as an fj owner I was a little relieved there was at least that much clearance tho.

A warmer engine will have all of its parts slightly larger than when cold. So if your clearances were decent slightly warm then they will open up slightly more. Depending on the temperature the engine was at when you first measured. Even the light thin film of oil trapped between the shim and the bucket will have a minor effect on the gap.... Good luck..

[yamaha fj rider]

** I kinda figured that, that's why I mentioned it. It guess I was kind of practicing for my future as an fj owner I was a little relieved there was at least that much clearance tho.

A warmer engine will have all of its parts slightly larger than when cold. So if your clearances were decent slightly warm then they will open up slightly more. Depending on the temperature the engine was at when you first measured. Even the light thin film of oil trapped between the shim and the bucket will have a minor effect on the gap.... Good luck..

+1 If you remove a shim from it's bucket and reinstall it or a new shim. Some oil get's in the bucket under the shim and gives a false reading. After taking the first reading and changing the shims, if you want to recheck the clearance. Put it back together and go for a ride. Bringing the engine and oil up to operating temperature. Park the bike overnight to cool then recheck the valves.

Kurt   

[FJ1100mjk]

if you want to recheck the clearance. Put it back together and go for a ride. Bringing the engine and oil up to operating temperature. Park the bike overnight to cool then recheck the valves.

Kurt   

Kurt

As you mention "if you want to", and I agree to with that. As mentioned by someone else, the trapped oil has a "minor effect on gap". I wouldn't even know if it, the trapped oil, is of consequence. This came up in the past and Randy (who?) stated, as I recall, that it wasn't a big deal.

Usually what I do, after changing a shim, is rotate the cam lobe above the new shim through one or two revolutions, then recheck the gap.

Can't wait for the Ribbert Report on this!

[Pat Conlon]

Measure twice on stone cold motor...follow the tables and replace the shims....don't remeasure or you will drive yourself crazy.
When we are talking about 1,000ths of and inch, the pooled oil in the bucket makes a difference...trust me.

As advised, if you do want to remeasure...run the bike first to get those shims fully seated.

[FJmonkey]

Kurt

As you mention "if you want to", and I agree to with that. As mentioned by someone else, the trapped oil has a "minor effect on gap". I wouldn't even know if it, the trapped oil, is of consequence. This came up in the past and Randy (who?) stated, as I recall, that it wasn't a big deal.

Usually what I do, after changing a shim, is rotate the cam lobe above the new shim through one or two revolutions, then recheck the gap.

Can't wait for the Ribbert Report on this!

I will respond on this but not sure how much difference it makes. The hotter oil will make a thinner film under the shim as more oil can squeeze out (think honey vs. water) when the cam pushes down on it. I am not sure if the oil film returns to a "Cold" thickness when things are cold again. But if the oil under the shim is trapped, then it all makes sense.

[FJ1100mjk]

Through manual rotation of the cam, I would assume that the reactive force of the high spring rate of the valve pushing back on the bucket/shim combo against the cam lobe's face, when you fully depress them with the lobe's lift, would be enough oomph to fully seat the shim and displace extra entrapped oil, so that an accurate feeler gauge measurement can be made.

I don't use feeler gauges that are incremented by .0005 inches. What I have been doing has worked for me.

Besides, what does/do factory service manuals state?

[ribbert]

Can't wait for the Ribbert Report on this!

I PM'd it.

Noel

[FJ1100mjk]

Can't wait for the Ribbert Report on this!

I PM'd it.

Noel

Yep, yep.

I found it here as well...

http://www.ribbert-reports.com/valvelashchex

[copper]

This came up in the past and Randy (who?) stated, as I recall, that it wasn't a big deal.

Can't wait for the Ribbert Report on this!

So, since I am waiting on my new valve tool to arrive this is on point. I called and talked to Randy this morning and he told me you must run the engine up to operating temp before remeasuring the valves after replacing the shims.It has to do with the oil getting under the shim, and the size of the hole in the top of the follower allowing more or less oil to pool and hold the shim from seating in the follower.

He said the chart is the reason you measure and remove and know what shim to replace with. He did say without running up to temp after changing shims, you will not get correct readings and they will be tight. I asked if there was a normal amount he saw and he said there are too many things like oil thckness & condition and the hole in the bucket to know. that is the same thing monkey said too

The link for the ribbert report doesn't work for me, what did he say via PM so maybe we can all benefit from it

[FJ1100mjk]

Copper:

The link is fictitious, as is the posting about the PM sent. Some of us were amused by them, while others? Whatever.

Anyways, do what Randy tells you to do, or like me, do it the way the factory manual shows. Advice has been given by others to err on the side of looseness, not tightness. If a little oil provides a tighter than desired clearance, it will go away after a little running. Right? Just don't set your valves at the maximum clearance to begin with.

Have fun with your valve lash efforts.

[rlucas]

The link is fictitious, as is the posting about the PM sent. Some of us were amused by them, while others? Whatever.

Well, I thought it was pretty damned funny...

[FJ1100mjk]

Good for you ^ because...

"There are two insults no human being will endure: that he has no sense of humor, and that he has never known trouble."

Sinclair Lewis

[copper]

Copper:

The link is fictitious, as is the posting about the PM sent. Some of us were amused by them, while others? Whatever.

Anyways, do what Randy tells you to do, or like me, do it the way the factory manual shows. Advice has been given by others to err on the side of looseness, not tightness. If a little oil provides a tighter than desired clearance, it will go away after a little running. Right? Just don't set your valves at the maximum clearance to begin with.

Have fun with your valve lash efforts.

Okay, I guess I missed it as I am just trying to learn before I try doing the valves 

I bought a GYSM and doing a lot of reading on the forum trying to gather info so I can learn

Ill stick to the advise I have received and provided by the GYSM

[movenon]

You are doing OK. Its all about learning and friendship.  A lot of the members here have known each other for many years so sometimes a little humor, poking and prodding go's on.  Sometime this summer if you get the chance drop by a rally and meet some of the members.  It's a great way to understand the forum humor.

Good for you on getting a service manual. Sometimes I pull what little hair I have out tiring to help someone that will spend lots of money on "upgrades" or parts and not spend 10-30.00 bucks on a used service manual off e bay.  Coffee stains on the cover preferred.. 

Keep asking questions that's part of the learning curve.  Nice thing about a motorcycle that was sold for over 10 years worldwide is all the help out there.  A surprising number of members here have owned there FJ since new and are a wealth of knowledge.
George

[ribbert]

Copper:

The link is fictitious, as is the posting about the PM sent. Some of us were amused by them, while others? Whatever.

Anyways, do what Randy tells you to do, or like me, do it the way the factory manual shows. Advice has been given by others to err on the side of looseness, not tightness. If a little oil provides a tighter than desired clearance, it will go away after a little running. Right? Just don't set your valves at the maximum clearance to begin with.

Have fun with your valve lash efforts.

Okay, I guess I missed it as I am just trying to learn before I try doing the valves 

I bought a GYSM and doing a lot of reading on the forum trying to gather info so I can learn

Ill stick to the advise I have received and provided by the GYSM

You missed nothing Copper, PM's are just that, Private Mail, and can't be read by anyone other than the recipient.

The link was obviously fictitious and was either an attempt at humour or to create mischief by someone.

Noel