Aussie 1100's new life

[Arnie]

Hi Bozo,

That was a bicycle speedo mounted on the bars of my Cagiva Navigator.  It was there so I had a clock :-)

What I was talking about was the "trip computer" on my Aprilia Shiver 750 that gives a whole range of data including avg fuel use, instant fuel use, trip, time running, clock, avg speed, max speed.  Interestingly there is no fuel gauge only a low fuel warning light that comes on with 5L left.

If a cop pulls you over its pretty easy to reset things back to 0 while slowing down and pulling over.
No need to self-incriminate :-)

[Troyskie]

"Although re-fitting the hose is a pain, it can be done. Remove the airbox lid and the filter so you can get to the hole from the inside to guide it in."

Cheers Arnie, I've a little time spare this morning & will see how I go.
Troy

[Troyskie]

Minor problem fitting the breather back on.
Arnie, excellent method to get them to join.
It would have worked perfectly, except the breather must have been shortened at some point as it only just meets the elbow barb end with about 3-4mm. The hose clip goes on the end, but I don't think it will be adding anything to hold it together.
It is basically connected, but just sitting together. There is some small oily wetness around it after the bike has had a hard run (testing my kookaloo zone), but just around the join and not dripping etc.
Arnie, thanks again for the reminder about water. I'm unlikely to ford any creeks on purpose, but I might stay out of heavy rain if possible (sods law will mean I get dumped on tomorrow).
Looks like a new slightly longer breather hose will be added to the 'major work' list for future projects.
As I mentioned on an earlier post, I'm intending to leave the clutch as is.
Effie will go for a dyno run & I'll post up the results & call the project complete then.
I'm on the hunt for another FJ, so there will be another project write-up on what ever I get.
Troyskie

[Arnie]

Troy,

See if you can find a bit of tubing to act as an extender, just to get them to marry up securely. 
Really won't matter if its plastic or metal.

[Troyskie]

Well, been a while and Effie is grunting nicely, however, with the Shed day coming up, and a dyno run planned I'm going to bite the bullet and replace the diaphragm spring in the clutch (for some reason my rev limiter doesn't kick at 9.5k, I don't know where it kicks as I'm too nervous to go much further than 10k).
The slipping at 7.5k is now getting annoying.
I've read some threads about doubling it.
If memory serves, there was also discussion about genuine v after market on one of those threads. This seemed to be based on genuine wearing quicker and/or being a bit weak.
After 31 years, and either (now) 68 or 168k on the odo, I'm inclined to simply put another genuine in (dependant on availability). I also mostly ride in town. Stop/start stuff, so a stiffer clutch is not a preference.
Any opinions fellas?
I generally don't fang flat out, but I'm getting a little more confident (took a 1/4" off my chicken strip), plus with a load on for some longer distance rides I think I'll just feel better sorting out this clutch slip.
Troyskie

[Pat Conlon]

Put a new FJR spring in, see how that works. Save your old spring. You can always add it to your FJR spring if needed.
If you need new fiber plates, be sure to get oem Yamaha fibers. While you're in there remove the wire retainer from your clutch pack.
See the clutch files for more info.

Cheers. Pat

[FJmonkey]

Any opinions fellas?
I generally don't fang flat out, but I'm getting a little more confident (took a 1/4" off my chicken strip), plus with a load on for some longer distance rides I think I'll just feel better sorting out this clutch slip.
Troyskie

When my clutch failed on my '86 a year or so ago I took it apart. It was some after market pack with thinner steels and fibers. The plates would stick like the oil was glue. I got refurbished steels from Randy at RPM, new OEM fibers and spring. What a difference that made. I had a slight shudder during engagement till the fibers and plates bedded in. No slip during Kookaloo all the way to 9.5K. I think that calculates to 22,000 telephone poles an hour....

[Troyskie]

Thanks fellas.
Pat, I assume from your suggestion of going for the FJR one, the FJ one is no longer available, or is it better?
Monkey, I did replace the friction plates with OEM when I first noticed the slip (step one diagnosis  ).

I think the PO may have been on the way to solving the same problem before the high-side. The friction plates replaced are in pretty good nic so I now have a spare set, but am keeping the new ones in.

I'll be checking the clutch files about removing the wire retainer. Thanks Pat.

[Mark Olson]

What seems to work best for clutch is to replace the 1/2 size fiber disc under the chatter spring and use a fresh clutch spring. This will add 1 more full size disc and seems to do the job without having to go to the double up spring . The reason for the fjr spring is it costs less and is the same thing. 

[Troyskie]

My lack of knowledge and mixing terminologies has got me .

I think the terms used in Oz are different to what I'm reading here .

I checked up on the FJR clutch spring. Although it's part picture looks the same, and has the part number referenced in the clutch files post, is everyone actually meaning the XJR spring? Or is the XJR called the FJR in the US?
The only FJR we have here is the 1300 etc, all the 1200's (after the FJ finished production) are called XJR (I could be wrong, this is from leaning over the counter and looking at the computer display  ).

Could Yamaha Marketing be playing silly buggers with the model names like Kawasaki did with the GPZ900R/ZX900/Ninja 900? Perhaps they got stuck with cold sake  . Alternatively I experiencing my married state of life generally starting with 'no you're wrong'.

The XJR spring also works with the FJ from all years (identical part number I'm talking about now), but also the R1 for quite a few years (up to 2006 or 2009 I think), plus quite a few other models (it was a long list).
Also the FJR spring with the part number 5JW-16334-00-00 costs about 1/3 more than the FJ part, which is what got me thinking (yeah, I need to stop doing that), 'perhaps they mean the XJR....'.

Another terminology confusy thingy is the 'friction plate'. I realise that you mean the fibre plate, but the parts diagram calls them friction plate, which is what I've been calling them - Sorry Monkey, when I said I replaced the 'friction plates', I meant the fibre plates. You mean what the diagram calls clutch plate right ?

Now, onto my utter lack of knowledge (yes I realise it's obvious). WTF is a chatter spring? The blokes asked in the shop, when I described the necessity of removing the wire retainer, if I meant this Masonian 'chatter spring'? I nodded sagely, and described the wire retainer and the Font Of All FJ Knowledge forum here's suggestion about removing it. Yep its gotta go, I read the post, but is it the 'chatter spring'? At the shop I was confident about what I was talking about, but now,.... Yes I could ask my Bro, a number of friends etc, but I want to follow this thread to the nutty end now.
The parts diagram does not list it. Fine. It shows a variety of things called 'spring', such as 'Clutch, Housing, Clutch Boss' but no secret womens business about 'chatter'. From the clutch files, the reference to part number 8 in the diagram as being the wire retainer/wire circlip is specific, but is that also the elusive 'chatter' spring?

NEXT, Mr Mark O, I want to follow your suggestion and fix my bike your way, it really seems the way to go. When you suggest 'replace the 1/2 size fiber disc under the chatter spring', which number from the diagram do you mean? I have my spares from replacing them & can do that, but I really want to get it right. My Effie's pulling harder than a teenage boy left alone with a box of pornos & I really don't want to bugger this up (wow REALLY mixed metaphors there!). This will also probably tell me what the 'chatter spring' is also but I'm on my second beer in the shed now and this is fun typing!

[Mark Olson]

OK, I looked at the parts diagram.. You will remove parts 4,5,6,8 and pitch them into the bin. Put a full size fiber in their place.

The anti-chatter spring is number 8 .
Here in the US the fjr1300 diaphragm spring is low cost and the fj1200 spring costs more. Same part , so whatever is lower cost for you will work. Just save the old spring in case you need to double them up.

I hope that helps.

[FJmonkey]

Another terminology confusy thingy is the 'friction plate'. I realise that you mean the fibre plate, but the parts diagram calls them friction plate, which is what I've been calling them - Sorry Monkey, when I said I replaced the 'friction plates', I meant the fibre plates. You mean what the diagram calls clutch plate right ?

No worries, I meant friction plate. I think of the clutch pack as fiber plates and steel plates. Better for me to use the OEM names to avoid confusion. Now get that clutch fixed and find your Kookaloo...

[racerrad8]

The reason for the fjr spring is it costs less and is the same thing. 

BTW, yes the FJR spring is cheaper in the US, but RPM sells the FJ spring for basically the US FJR prices.

Yamaha Clutch Spring FJ1100 FJ1200 XJR1200 XJR1300

Or there is also an aftermarket spring; EBC Clutch Spring

and finally, there is full & complete write up with pictures on the clutch mods, including the chatter spring here; Clutch slipping? Look here.

Randy - RPM

[Troyskie]

Thanks Mark, Monkey, & Randy.
I have been using the clutch files as my reference starting point.
I think we need to add Marks' method as option 1 or 2, so there could be 4 options in the intro. Perhaps separating them into street/commute and performance clutch mods.
Mark, are parts 4 & 5 spacers to allow for the smaller friction plate?
Randy, do I need to have the ID of the full size friction pate machined back by 0.01" (0.254mm)? Is that so it fits on the clutch boss? Also is the spring to be removed part 5 the Clutch Boss Spring, or part 13 the Housing Spring? I'm assuming part 5 as Mark has already stated it goes.
Troyskie

[racerrad8]

There is basically only one mod to the clutch pack itself. The other modifications revolve around the spring and pressure plate.

Like mark said removed and discard 4,5,6 & 8.


Then you replace it with another #9, wide clutch/friction/fiber disc


Yes, the narrow fiber is required when #4 & 5 are used, when they are removed then #9 is a direct replacement without any other modification/machining required.

#13 stays in place, you only need to work with the numbers provided above.

Randy - RPM