A few questions on maintenance for a "new" 93 FJ1200

[wirehairs]

Hi everyone.  Last fall, I bought a new (for me!) FJ1200 with 28K on the clock.  It's in very nice shape, with the most obvious needs being new tires, brake and clutch lines (and I assume all pads).  All I did last fall to drive it a bit was changed the oil and the headlight bulb (as only the highbeam worked).  I just finished restoring an 82 Yamaha 550 Seca, and rebuilt a 82 Maxim 400 for my girlfriend.  So, I'm fairly skilled and have a lot of tools.  But the first time you do anything, it's a challenge, right?  I have gone and read through a bunch of the forum posting, but would like to ask a few general questions.  And yes, I bought 2 manuals for this model - the Haynes and Clymer.

1) Tires: the bike came with Metzeler ME880's.  They look great, as the bike was stored inside, but they are over 10 years old, so I feel compelled to change them.  I see that Metzeler has replaced that tire with the ME888, but it does not appear they make them in the size for this bike (150/80 and 120/70).  I welcome input on suitable replacements.

2) Brake lines: the bike has the original lines, and I'm assuming, the major reason they feel so spongy.  I've installed SS lines on other bikes, but with this being an ABS bike (my first), I'm unclear how that will make changing and filling the lines any different.  Does it?  I have used one of Mity Vacs.  That hydraulic unit is something new for me.  So, it seems to me that just for the front brakes, you've actually got 4 lines, so how is it that some offering are only 2 lines, like this one?  http://www.ebay.com/itm/271787682916?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT  Since I only have records of the oil changes on this bike, I assume I might as well change all the brake seals while I'm in there?  Regarding brake pads, I'm leaning towards the EBC semi-sintered pads.  Sound reasonable?

3) Fork oil: as I doubt it's ever been replaced, I assume I'll go ahead and do that.  Does anyone here make a habit of replacing these with progressive spring?   Maybe the fact that this bike has ABS brakes inclines me less to replacing the springs?  The fork seals look fine.

4) Other: I'll be replacing the spark plugs, and the cam cover gasket, as that's leaking.  This will be a good time to check the valve clearances, and was wondering if that valve adjustment tool works ok for this bike?  It doesn't on the XJ bikes for the most part, and we use the zip-tie method to hold the valves down while we pop out the shims.  Oh, and I'll change the fuel filter too just because I have no idea if that was ever changed.

Thank you very much, and I'm looking forward to your shared expertise. 

[Capn Ron]

Hi everyone.  Last fall, I bought a new (for me!) FJ1200 with 28K on the clock. All I did last fall to drive it a bit was changed the oil and the headlight bulb (as only the highbeam worked).  I just finished restoring an 82 Yamaha 550 Seca,   So, I'm fairly skilled and have a lot of tools.

Nice find with the '93!  I'm on a '92 with ABS as well and also owned an '82 Seca 550 as my first bike.  Loved that thing!  

1) Tires: the bike came with Metzeler ME880's.  They look great, as the bike was stored inside, but they are over 10 years old, so I feel compelled to change them.  I see that Metzeler has replaced that tire with the ME888, but it does not appear they make them in the size for this bike (150/80 and 120/70).  I welcome input on suitable replacements.

You should definitely put new rubber on...ten years is really pushing it as the rubber will harden up over time...and you don't know their history (I thought I could use an old set that looked perfect, only to find the front was previously never balanced...it induced a scary speed wobble!)  

For long-haul touring, the ME880's are spectacular!  Easily got 12,000 miles out of the rear and 17,000 miles out of the front on a tour I did a couple of years ago.  I see that these are still available around in our stock sizes...you might want to grab a pair if that's the type tire you're after.  I saw that they are being phased out for the ME888 Ultra and the rear is available in our size, but the front isn't?  This is odd because it's usually the rear size that's uncommon.  The other two bias-ply tires (for our factory, admittedly skinny rim width) that are available in a matched-pair are the Avon Roadriders and the Pirelli Sport Demons.  I've run both of these and the Pirelli wins out for being sticky and having a very beefy carcass.  I got exactly 5,500 miles out of the rear tire.  The Roadriders are a lighter tire, but performed well all around and I got a bit over 6,000 out of the rear.

2) Brake lines: the bike has the original lines, and I'm assuming, the major reason they feel so spongy.  I've installed SS lines on other bikes, but with this being an ABS bike (my first), I'm unclear how that will make changing and filling the lines any different.  Does it?  I have used one of Mity Vacs.  That hydraulic unit is something new for me.  So, it seems to me that just for the front brakes, you've actually got 4 lines, so how is it that some offering are only 2 lines, like this one?  http://www.ebay.com/itm/271787682916?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT  Since I only have records of the oil changes on this bike, I assume I might as well change all the brake seals while I'm in there?  Regarding brake pads, I'm leaning towards the EBC semi-sintered pads.  Sound reasonable?

The EBC HH pads are highly regarded here and you'll find two camps on the ABS system.  In the one camp, you have me...stubornly keeping it and am very happy for it.  In the other camp, you'll have everyone else...who will recommend stripping off all the ABS bits to save weight, improve lever feel, reduce the SS brake line count, switch to blue-dot calipers, change the master cylinder to match (or skip this step)...while you're in there, swap the front wheel for a wider 17", go with a wave rotor and switch to radial tires.  Did you get all that?  Well, if you want to keep the ABS, you've found a supporter.  There are more lines involved for sure as the fluid has to get routed to the ABS pump at the rear and back.  Galfer makes a fine SS line kit for the ABS setup that includes the rear brake and clutch lines as well (I helped them develop this kit during my bike rebuild).  You may find this helpful:

http://www.galferusa.com/brake-line-instructions/ABS/Kawasaki-Yamaha-Complete-Kits/D663-9%20Std%20Front%20Rear%20and%20Clutch.pdf

As far as brake seals are concerned, you seem handy...and it's an easy job while you have things apart.  There is a little round seal that seals the two caliper halves to each other.  Don't make the mistake of chucking those assuming a seal kit comes with a new one.  It doesn't.

The trick to the spongy lever is proper bleeding...which includes a mighty-vac, a gallon of brake fluid and some tenacity.  Even with that, your front lever (with all the ABS lines) won't feel as tight as a non-ABS setup.

3) Fork oil: as I doubt it's ever been replaced, I assume I'll go ahead and do that.  Does anyone here make a habit of replacing these with progressive spring?   Maybe the fact that this bike has ABS brakes inclines me less to replacing the springs?  The fork seals look fine.

ABS brakes have little to do with the handling of the front end of the bike.  Most folks here have rebuilt the front end using a straight-rate spring (myself included) and some fork valve setup.  The hot ticket for keeping the front end planted is the RPM fork valves:



http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3ARPMForkValve

While you're in there replace the fork seals as well...

4) Other: I'll be replacing the spark plugs, and the cam cover gasket, as that's leaking.  This will be a good time to check the valve clearances, and was wondering if that valve adjustment tool works ok for this bike?  It doesn't on the XJ bikes for the most part, and we use the zip-tie method to hold the valves down while we pop out the shims.  Oh, and I'll change the fuel filter too just because I have no idea if that was ever changed.

There is a valve tool for our bikes that works great.  I own one as do a lot of folks here.  There is also a shim kit floating around...actually a couple of them...which includes the tool...that can be loaned out to us for a small fee.  You take what you need, replace them with the ones you don't and return it for the next guy to use.  Nothing like having a kit full of various size shims on hand in the moment you need them.  



http://fjowners.wikidot.com/valve-shims

Yeah, a genuine fuel filter is called for and again...available from Randy:



http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3AFF-O.E.

The other BIG improvement is getting rid of the old OEM rear shock...that's probably too spongy at this point.  Years ago, a Penske Sport shock was about your only option, but Randy has changed that by developing a rear shock specifically for our FJ's to rave reviews.



http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3ARPMShock%2891-95%29

I've caught some flack for this in the past, but I think Yamaha got the bike "right" in the first place.  It's the reason we all love it so much.  That's not to say there aren't some excellent (and even some no-brianer) upgrades you can do when the budget or time allows.  The "Yamaha got it right" part is that it's an excellent ride as-is and only gets better as you go.  You don't HAVE to do any of these upgrades...but when you do, you'll wonder why you didn't do them sooner.

[simi_ed]

One suggestion on Ron's otherwise spot-on answers:  When doing the fork rebuild, replace the bushings.  And don't skip the $20 for set of fork seals either.  Forks are wear items, a simple oil change won't really do.

Ed

[Pat Conlon]

One suggestion on Ron's otherwise spot-on answers:  When doing the fork rebuild, replace the bushings.  And don't skip the $20 for set of OEM YAMAHA fork seals either.  Forks are wear items, a simple oil change won't really do.

Ed

FIFY

Good job Ron!

[Capn Ron]

One suggestion on Ron's otherwise spot-on answers:  When doing the fork rebuild, replace the bushings.  And don't skip the $20 for set of OEM YAMAHA fork seals either.  Forks are wear items, a simple oil change won't really do.

Ed

FIFY

Good job Ron!

Thanks Pat...I thought I'd put in a good effort on my 999th post here on the forum.  Just giving back a little slice of what I've gained from everyone else here.   

Wait...I just hit 1,000!   

[ZOA NOM]

Wow, small world. My first was the '82 Seca 650, and I'm now on my second '93 ABS. I won't even attempt to add to Cap'n Ron's post, since it is as comprehensive as it gets. I will say that I ditched the ABS, and "upgraded" to the blue pots off an FJR, as well as the GSXR rear wheel and FZR front wheel, along with the RPM treatment (forks and rear shock), and I can't get off the damned thing. Neither rain nor sleet nor fog has kept me from commuting on it daily through our relatively cold and wet winter here in NorCal.

[Pat Conlon]

On your valve cover gasket, consider replacing your 8 valve cover bolt grommets also

http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Head:FJGrommet&cat=39

[yamaha fj rider]

Congratulations on the bike and good work on the XJs. You have been given some excellent advise. My two cents is about the front engine mounts. Here is a link for instructions on how to do this.  http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=3613.0  You may not need the puller. I didn't. Don't hammer on the mounts these are part of the engine case. If they are stuck you will have a lot more vibration. Use common sense, if you are forcing it stop and rethink it.

Kurt

[wirehairs]

Just wanted to thank everyone, especially Capt Ron, for taking the time to respond to my questions.  It's always just a bit daunting to learn all the ins-and-outs of a new model...  and I really like to do everything right, especially when safety is involved.  And thanks for the leads on some parts.  I am interested in the idea of the fork valves and the new rear shock, but for this year, I think I'll just tend to the maintenance stuff, and then next year (when I should have a new house with a basement where I can work all winter long on the thing in a heated room!), I can do some upgrades.

We do all tend to fall into two camps, don't we?  Those wanting to keep the bike stock, and those willing swap out anything in the name of weigh and performance.  With my XJ, I was all about keeping it strictly stock.  I'm less adamant about that approach with this one, although I still see myself keeping the ABS and the airbox.  Yes, I'll be bitching at the lack of space when working on it, but I just figure the engineers who designed the motor know more than I do. 

One crazy idea of do have is repainting it over the winter next year... or the year after.  I wonder if anyone has every done the Kenny Robert's treatment to an FJ?  http://www.rddecals.afegraphics.com/view_product.php?&product=87rz350KRYL-FullKit-R00947   Or maybe I should go with Red and White...

In the next few weeks, I'll post some pictures of my project to the other billboard.  The bike was dropped at some point, and I have a scratched shield to deal with (I have 3-bottle pack Meguire's compounds I'm going to use to buff them out).  But the fairing has a little damage, causing problems with one of the mirror mounts, and one of the frame mounts for the fairing is smashed pretty flat, so the PO just put a piece of wire as an attachment point.  Not sure that's fixable, but I'll post pictures for input.

Thanks again everyone!! 

[ken65]

i think the kenny roberts scheme would look shit hot, ive seen an rz and an xjr done like this, i wonder how you'd go with decals with the dimensions of the fj?  might be easier to paint them on.

[airheadPete]

Oh, I've always liked that scheme...

[rlucas]

I stuck with red-and-white, but it's sorta KR-ish...

[/URL]

[FJ1100mjk]

I stuck with red-and-white,

You're "stuck" with the best two colors to ever grace the FJ. Enjoy!

[FeralRdr]

I stuck with red-and-white,

You're "stuck" with the best two colors to ever grace the FJ. Enjoy!

Agreed! 

[FeralJuggernaut]

http://www.fj1100.com/fj_gallery/fj053.jpg   But I'd imagine John has better photos if you are going want investigate futher.