Fork Seals

[FJmonkey]

Alan, one more good nugget on the forks. Inspect the bushings, they are designed to be a wear item. They are also easy to replace and not break the bank.

[X-Ray]

They are not too difficult to get apart Tony, and you can then really clean the guts out of them with Kero etc, really get rid of the old oil. I put in new springs/seals/RPM valves/bushes etc when I did mine last year at our Manshed Day. That bottom bolt in each leg can be a pain to remove.

Probably the first time in 12 years the forks have been apart, but it's worth the effort.

Have a look here Tony, couple of decent videos I studied before doing mine as well, down the page a bit http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=10474.0

[Earl Svorks]

  I got these plastic guards from a Triumph fork set. I have not had any leakage since I put them on.
  As for changing out the seals, the only thing that makes the job difficult, really is that 12mil allen bolt in the bottom. They are installed with some sort of Locktite/sealant from the factory. A half inch impact is what I use. Sometimes heat is needed to break them loose. The damper rod can be held from the top with a hex tool (cant remember the exact size) on a long extension but that method is always a messy PITA.
  Wear on the bushings can be the root cause of seal failure. You can look for this before you begin disassembling the forks.

[the fan]

I always disassemble the forks for inspection and cleaning. I do however have all the proper suspension tools and have done at least 1000 forks over the years...


One tip for breaking loose the lower bolt is to heat it up prior to removing to soften the Loctite. For this I use an old soldering gun. I simply hold the tip against the head of the bolt until I can smell the Loctite/oil burning off and then normally it will come right out. Makes the job much easier.

[Mark Olson]

I always disassemble the forks for inspection and cleaning. I do however have all the proper suspension tools and have done at least 1000 forks over the years...


One tip for breaking loose the lower bolt is to heat it up prior to removing to soften the Loctite. For this I use an old soldering gun. I simply hold the tip against the head of the bolt until I can smell the Loctite/oil burning off and then normally it will come right out. Makes the job much easier.

that is a great idea with the soldering gun ....Awesome tip.

[JMR]

 A quick tip....cut the corner off a baggie and put over the top of the tube before sliding the seal on. It eliminates the possibility of damaging the seal lip. Also works on countersprocket seals.

[Tony Mac]

Thank you every one for your advice.
I chose the Sooks way and serviced the forks without changing the seals.
This all started as a fill in while waiting for my Brake re build kit to arrive.
I flushed each fork leg with the leftover fork oil from there last service which worked out well. I have enough fork oil after this round to do the same thing next time.
The brake bits arrived so I completed all tasks yesterday and have just returned from a 70K shake down ride.
Everything is fantastic.
The bike seemed to glide over the road with my serviced forks and the brakes are heaps better than they have been in years.
Some one from this forum suggested a great way to bleed the front brakes. That is to release the bleeder and gently squeeze the lever, lock the bleeder and release the lever. It worked a treat. In fact I had lever feel after only doing this on each side for around 5 min.
I had full feel after about another 5 min. of proper bleeding. I couldn't believe how quickly the brakes came up.

Now all I have to do before the Wog 57 Rally is to replace the lid of my Trailer so my camping gear won't get wet.
Thanks again all.
Be Good.
Tony Mac

[Bones]

If you had a leak before, your still going to have a leak now Tony, seeing as you didn't change the seals. You don't want it pissing oil out all over your brakes during the rally and spoiling all the fun, and making it potentially dangerous. Seriously, it's not a hard job to do, and once done with decent seals will last a few years.

The fairing doesn't have to be removed, just put on the double stand, jack the wheel off the ground and remove, pull the legs out, replace seals and refit. I did mine complete with new bushes, valves, etc on my own in a day, even quicker if you've got a spare set of hands.

The hardest job is getting the Allen bolt on the end of the forkleg undone, but a rattle gun with the 10mm fitting makes short work of it.

                                                           Tony.

[FJ_Hooligan]

Fork oil will ruin brake caliper seals. 
It makes them swell and lock up the pistons.  Or it makes you have to pull the lever really hard before getting any braking, then you get way more than you want.
Additionally it will also ruin your brake pads.

[ribbert]

Some one from this forum suggested a great way to bleed the front brakes. That is to release the bleeder and gently squeeze the lever, lock the bleeder and release the lever. It worked a treat. In fact I had lever feel after only doing this on each side for around 5 min.
I had full feel after about another 5 min. of proper bleeding. I couldn't believe how quickly the brakes came up.

Tony Mac

Tony, the method you "discovered" was what I was taught as an apprentice, used hundreds of times over 45 years, still do and how every mechanic I ever met did it. I had never heard of all these convoluted ways of doing it until joining the forum/internet.
The method you stumbled across is how it has been done since the beginning of time.

I do use speed bleeders these days which makes it much easier and less messy though.

Glad it worked well for you, nothing like a nice solid feel to the brakes.

Noel

[X-Ray]

Noel beat me to it .   Install some inexpensive Speed Bleeders and brake servicing becomes a doddle.

[FJ_Hooligan]

The first two steps in your process need to be reversed.

Squeeze the lever, crack the bleeder, close bleeder, then release lever.

[Pat Conlon]

The first two steps in your process need to be reversed.

Squeeze the lever, crack the bleeder, close bleeder, then release lever.

....and put a hose on the nipple, to redirect the small geyser of brake fluid that will erupt when you crack open the bleeder port.

[FJmonkey]

....and put a hose on the nipple, to redirect the small geyser of brake fluid that will erupt when you crack open the bleeder port.

And run the open end of the hose to the bottom of the container, this will prevent any accidental reversal and suck air back into the system.