Fork Seals

Tony Mac · February 13, 2015, 03:07:38 PM

G'day all, I think I will have to stop looking at my bike while I wait for my brake parts to arrive.

My forks developed a leak a while back so I fasioned a "Fork Mate" from some plastic I had lying around and fixed the issue, I thought.
Last night I discover the LHS fork is leaking again.
Can I simply remove the seal without pulling the leg to bits ?
I've replaced my seals the propper way before but it occured to me that if the Dust seal can slide up and down, why can't the oil seal. After I remove the retaining clip ofcourse.
I'm not trying to shirk the expense of it all, I just don't want to have too much more to do before Grafton.
After all, its only 28 sleeps away.

Be Good
Macca

FJmonkey · February 13, 2015, 03:20:53 PM

How long has your fork oil been in service? Might need to change it anyway. The leaking means that one or both of your forks no longer have the correct amount of oil. You can service your forks without removing them from the bike, the upper part at least can stay bolted on. I prefer to pull them so I can make sure they are properly flushed out. Got any mates near by that have done forks before?

Tony Mac · February 13, 2015, 03:34:13 PM

Quote from: FJmonkey on February 13, 2015, 03:20:53 PM
How long has your fork oil been in service? Might need to change it anyway. The leaking means that one or both of your forks no longer have the correct amount of oil. You can service your forks without removing them from the bike, the upper part at least can stay bolted on. I prefer to pull them so I can make sure they are properly flushed out. Got any mates near by that have done forks before?

Quality question Mark.
I'd say a couple of years at least.
I will try replacing the fork oil and see what happens.
Thanks for the advice.

ken65 · February 13, 2015, 03:46:07 PM

I recently fixed a leaking seal with a fork mate, Fixed it for a few weeks then let go big time out on a ride...The oil ended up in my brake pads ruining them which

added another $130 to the cost plus poor brakes. I dont think you'd want that to happen a long way from home..

ken

FJmonkey · February 13, 2015, 03:57:40 PM

I had one fork seal let loose on my '86 600 CBR, the rotor on that side was worn way past minimum and the pads were gone. Not sure how the rotor ate it but it was an expensive repair. Now it is something I check when I stop during rides. Just like the chain and other simple visual stuff. That is how I noticed oil leaking on my rear wheel, rode it home avoiding corners...

FJ1100mjk · February 13, 2015, 04:23:38 PM

I haven't taken forks apart to change seals in quite awhile. I've been applying this method instead.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=205643

Kind of messy. I use old engine oil. Follow up by flushing them up real good with charcoal lighter. Leave the forks upside down with their caps out for a day or two, then re-assemble everything.

I await the lessons and scolding from the ....., on the above.

FJ_Hooligan · February 13, 2015, 04:31:10 PM

The fork(s) will need to be removed from the triple clamps (you may as well do both while you're at it.

In order to get the seal out, you will have to remove the damper rod bolt and separate the fork tube from the slider.

There is a way that I've seen to get the seal out without pulling the fork apart.
Remove the fork from the clamps,
Remove the spring,
Remove the dust cap and retaining clip,
Add oil to within a few inches of the top with the tube extended,
Replace the fork cap
Arrange a fulcrum so you can press down on the fork with a long lever arm,
Press down on the top of the fork with the fulcrum and oil pressure will eventually push the seal out of the slider.

It will either work as described or it will destroy the seal and you'll be back to pull the fork apart.

EDIT: Oops, Marty beat me to it.

ribbert · February 13, 2015, 05:02:37 PM

Quote from: FJ1100mjk on February 13, 2015, 04:23:38 PM
I haven't taken forks apart to change seals in quite awhile. I've been applying this method instead.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=205643

Kind of messy. I use old engine oil. Follow up by flushing them up real good with charcoal lighter. Leave the forks upside down with their caps out for a day or two, then re-assemble everything.

I await the lessons and scolding from the ....., on the above.

That should work well. Although not a formally described procedure in any manual, it is an old mechanics trick loosely referred to as hydraulic jacking, a good way to remove blind bushes too.

My only comment would that it is a method most often used in the absence of a special tool where there is no other way of doing something or when it's faster.
In reality, by the time you set all that up, you could have the leg apart and half assembled again.

If you weigh up the time/messing about/setting up factor vs the conventional method, I'm not sure if there is an advantage.

Noel

Tony Mac · February 13, 2015, 05:15:16 PM

I love the idea of "Jacking" the Seal out with Hydraulics

, although as Noel says I could have the things apart and half way reassembled by the time I waited for the concrete around the Decking post to set. (I've looked around and I don't have anything that would assist at this house).
I think I'll bite the Bullet and buy a set of seals and do the job right first time.

Thanks everyone for your advice.
I love this forum.

Be Good.
Tony.

FJmonkey · February 13, 2015, 05:22:03 PM

Tony, make sure you get Yamaha (OEM) seals. The aftermarket seals tend to fail quickly. Not my personal experience as I have only used OEM seals. Others may chime in regarding how much money they saved with aftermarket seals, then having to do the job twice and still buy the OEM seals anyway.

FJ1100mjk · February 13, 2015, 06:19:36 PM

Quote from: FJmonkey on February 13, 2015, 05:22:03 PM
make sure you get Yamaha (OEM) seals. The aftermarket seals tend to fail quickly, then having to do the job twice and still buy the OEM seals anyway.

Been there, done that. More than once. Leak Proof seals, are anything but!

Strictly OEM (or RPM Racing sourced) ones from now on.

roverfj1200 · February 13, 2015, 07:03:35 PM

Had trouble with my seals leaking repeatedly. I think it was the clear coat under the seal seat. after removing all the old clear and cleaning the seat I have not had a repeat leak..

FJmonkey · February 13, 2015, 07:45:55 PM

Quote from: roverfj1200 on February 13, 2015, 07:03:35 PM
Had trouble with my seals leaking repeatedly. I think it was the clear coat under the seal seat. after removing all the old clear and cleaning the seat I have not had a repeat leak..

Good catch, if the seat had clear coat then it could degrade and compromise the sealing surface. It would weep out on the outer side of the seal. One more tool in the mental tool box, thanks...

My wife's SUV had chrome rims that caused an air leak. Same problem, the chrome eventually failed and the tire was seated against cracked chrome. Ironically, shortly after buying two new expensive tires and paying to get the wheels fixed, a teenage son totaled the vehicle...

The General · February 13, 2015, 07:54:51 PM

Quote from: ribbert on February 13, 2015, 05:02:37 PM
Quote from: FJ1100mjk on February 13, 2015, 04:23:38 PM
I haven't taken forks apart to change seals in quite awhile. I've been applying this method instead.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=205643

Kind of messy. I use old engine oil. Follow up by flushing them up real good with charcoal lighter. Leave the forks upside down with their caps out for a day or two, then re-assemble everything.

I await the lessons and scolding from the ....., on the above.

That should work well. Although not a formally described procedure in any manual, it is an old mechanics trick loosely referred to as hydraulic jacking, a good way to remove blind bushes too.

My only comment would that it is a method most often used in the absence of a special tool where there is no other way of doing something or when it's faster.
In reality, by the time you set all that up, you could have the leg apart and half assembled again.

If you weigh up the time/messing about/setting up factor vs the conventional method, I'm not sure if there is an advantage.

Noel

Yeah, some bush mechanics go outside the square but effectively get tha job done. Some love the journey on roads less travelled. Off topic maybe, but this ruff bastard uses screws and a screwdriver on tha big ends! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZVuKp5M3de8
(apologies....it`s Saturday & I`m in tha shed playing with me new/ second hand compressor tools....just found out those air hammer thingies won`t undo my shock nut on the sidecar!...so had a breather with tha computer.)...as you were.

Firehawk068 · February 13, 2015, 08:05:27 PM

Another benefit to disassembling your forks to change the seals, is that you can inspect the fork bushings while you're in there.
Depending on how many miles you have on your FJ, you might want to consider replacing the bushings while you have them apart.
If the "Teflon" coating has worn off of them to the point where they are showing "Copper" then they probably should be replaced.

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Fork Seals