Givi rack.

[aussiefj]

Hi Guys, I fitted a Givi rack a couple of years ago and this week it broke the rear indicator bracket for the second time. The bracket was never designed to take the weight of a rack and top box in the first place so it's not a fault of the FJ, but of the extra weight it's asked to carry and the shit roads we have here in Oz pounding it to death.
Anyway I decided this time to make sure it didn't break again so I've reinforced it by adding an extra bracket behind it, and in the process I thought it would actually give me something to post about and might help someone else down the track. But I'm only posting on the condition that nobody comments on my welding, I was going for strength not beauty and I never have been an ace welder.

Cheers, John.

[roverfj1200]

John had the same problem with my K2 rack. I took the tail section off and the local engineering shop reinforced the mounts. I then fitted a Ventura rack which I mounted the rack to. I have also bolted the rack to the hand grips which has really give the whole thing some strength.

Cheers

[X-Ray]

Good timing John, I have to do this exact same thing with my Project Bike. Haven't welded for 20 years, bought a new inverter arc welder, should be fun 

[FJmonkey]

Good post John, no worries about the welding, you got the job done. And you will help others, either fix or prevent the same problem. 

[ribbert]

Good timing John, I have to do this exact same thing with my Project Bike. Haven't welded for 20 years, bought a new inverter arc welder, should be fun 

I've had both of mine break off at different times, from memory they are only welded at either end. I full length bead should be enough, that's all I did and I have had no further problems.
As a rule of thumb you are looking at a tensile strength of about 1 ton per inch of weld.
Additional bracing certainly can't hurt but I think welding over the entire length of the bracket should be enough.

Noel

[Steve_in_Florida]

Good job!

I think that's a common failure with rack systems on our bikes. That little bracket has to support a bit of weight in a vib-ra-tey environment.

My original bike has this repair in the same place.

Steve

[movenon]

Good timing John, I have to do this exact same thing with my Project Bike. Haven't welded for 20 years, bought a new inverter arc welder, should be fun 

I've had both of mine break off at different times, from memory they are only welded at either end. I full length bead should be enough, that's all I did and I have had no further problems.
As a rule of thumb you are looking at a tensile strength of about 1 ton per inch of weld.
Additional bracing certainly can't hurt but I think welding over the entire length of the bracket should be enough.

Noel

While installing the WingRack II as a preventive (?) measure I also put a bead over the factory weld which only extended about 3/4 of the way and then I went inside and put another bead at the top. Then with great care on the inside put a bead down next to the captured nut.

I haven't done it yet but I am planning to running a brace from the tail ends of the WingRack II up to my modified licence plate bracket. Taking some flex out of the side plate at the tail end and adding some support also.  GIVI makes a end bracket, (Y100 K8100) I just want a little different design.

http://old.itlcanada.com/internal2/instructions/fiches/076y100.pdf

Probably over kill but I also reinforced the FJ turn signal bracket at the bend point to stiffen side to side movement.  But as "Skymasters" once said you just move the failer point to the next weakest point. .

George

[Zwartie]

Looks familiar! I had to get some surgery performed on my rear subframe last spring for exactly the same thing. I guess the roads in Alaska were a little bumpier than expected.











Zwartie

[aussiefj]

The first time one broke I put a full bead front and back, but it still broke again, but as I've said I'm the best welder by any means. This time it's a belt and braces job, re-welded both brackets and added the supports behind. A longer bolt through the original bracket allows a nut to be added behind to tie it all together.
From memory recommended max weight added to the top box is only about 5kg, and usually on a trip it's a sit on the lid job to close it, then add a backrest  with the missus leaning against it and it's going to be way over, so we'll see how we go this time.
Have a 1600km fully loaded round trip to Wodonga and back for the Ulysses AGM next month so that will be a good test to start with.

John.

[Arnie]

I don't have a pic handy, but when my tab broke I just made a "P" clamp out of 3mm steel strap that wraps over the subframe tube.
End of problem.

Arnie

[FJmonkey]

I don't have a pic handy, but when my tab broke I just made a "P" clamp out of 3mm steel strap that wraps over the subframe tube.
End of problem.

Arnie

I was thinking the same thing, please post up Arnie.

[aussiefj]

I don't have a pic handy, but when my tab broke I just made a "P" clamp out of 3mm steel strap that wraps over the subframe tube.
End of problem.

Arnie




Now you tell me!!

John

[Zwartie]

Update: Whilst removing the rear sub-frame earlier today I found that the right-side rear turn-signal mount broke away from the frame again. You can see it below sitting in the snow next to the frame. There's another rear sub-frame next to it which I will be installing soon. I will be sure to get the rear turn-signal mounts reinforced prior to installing the sub-frame.



Zwartie

[aussiefj]

Zwartie are you sure it didn't just freeze off. Certain metal parts can be prone to that in that sort of weather.

John

[ribbert]

Zwartie are you sure it didn't just freeze off. Certain metal parts can be prone to that in that sort of weather.

John