substitute for "silky white"paint

[fjfool]

does anyone have a suggestion for a close rattle can match for the "silky white" color on my '86?
thanks

[FJ1100mjk]

Any good auto body shop, or PPG type supplier can match you up. They have the proper capabilities.

[ZOA NOM]

Come on, we don't do "body shops". FJ's are DIY!

There's a "Silky White" listed for the 1990 FJ on Colorite's website, which requires a base as well.

http://www.colorrite.com/product/yamaha-00ge-silky-white-sw-1752.cfm

[aviationfred]

Colorrite carries Silky white in an aerosol that works very well.

http://www.colorrite.com/product/yamaha-00ge-silky-white-sw-1752.cfm

I have used this on my FJ with great results. Here is a before and after shot of my lower cowling that I did a year ago.

This Red cowling is the exact cowling I purchased from a fellow member.



Here is the results after using the Colorrite Silky White Aerosol paint.



Here is a shot a year later.



For the Aerosol Silky White. You will need 4 cans of paint.

1. Primer
2. Base coat
3. Color coat
4. Clear coat

The price tag is about $125.00 for all 4 cans and shipping.


Fred

[movenon]

This is pretty darn close. I can't tell the difference.  Custom to match my 1990 Silky White.  It is a Tri Coat color..

PPG

Toyota OEM code 070,A0083
White Pearl Crystal Shine, Blizzard
Mixing scheme: Envirobase HP  (EHP Tricoat)

Makes 6 fluid ounces    Inc. (g)
T400 White               210.7
T423 Yellow                  2.2
T407 Jet Black              1.8
T415 Blue                      .3


Tinted Clear Coat
Envirobase HP (EHP Tricoat)

Makes 6 Fluid ounces      Inc. (g)
T490         Clear            140.5
T453         White Pearl     17.7
T4000       Crystal Silver   14.4
T491         Matt Base       3.8
T456         Blue Pearl        2.9
T465         Red Pearl        1.4

Clear coat on top..............

George

[simi_ed]

Wow, that Colorite shit is EXPENSIVE!  I had my lower fairing shot in silver & red to match OEM (came in the silky white), and a front fender shot in silver(front) & black(rear, again to match OEM) by a painter for about the same $$$.  Just a thought.

[fjfool]

thanks for all the info fellas
for comparison, what do you think it would cost to buy enough material to respray the bike stock colors?- i may be able to have a skilled friend shoot it
any resources on reproduction decal kits?

[aviationfred]

thanks for all the info fellas
for comparison, what do you think it would cost to buy enough material to respray the bike stock colors?- i may be able to have a skilled friend shoot it
any resources on reproduction decal kits?

For a DIY paint job using rattle can Urethane from Colorrite

Silky White

http://www.colorrite.com/product/yamaha-00ge-silky-white-sw-1752.cfm

Base coat for the Silky White

http://www.colorrite.com/product/11001-base-1186.cfm

Stormy Red

http://www.colorrite.com/product/yamaha-00aj-stormy-red-smr-1744.cfm

Base coat for the Stormy Red

http://www.colorrite.com/product/1500-base-1249.cfm

Primer

http://www.colorrite.com/product/aerosol-primer-1064.cfm

Clear for the plastics

http://www.colorrite.com/product/aerosol-high-gloss-clear-1075.cfm

Clear for the fuel tank

http://www.colorrite.com/product/aerosol-kk7-urethane-high-gloss-clear-kit-1007.cfm

Here is a link to reproduction 1986 FJ1200 decals

http://www.rddecals.afegraphics.com/view_product.php?&product=86fj1200-LATFullKit-R00941

Going this route with factory matched paint will not be cheap, but you have the convenience of the rattle cans and no need for color matching at a paint shop. Having used this paint myself and knowing how much is needed, and the cost of the decal set puts the price in the neighborhood of $578.00

The price would definitely vary with purchasing the bulk air gun sprayed paint.

Fred

[giantkiller]

Thanks Fred for the Link to the decals. That's good to know.

[airheadPete]

Just a thought, but:
When I've used rattle cans, I can do a decent job, but the paint depth is very shallow. I wind up burning through several cans. The thinness make prep even more important, any flaw will show through. (Ask me how I know. I've been shooting an old BMW fairing.)
If the Colorite stuff is really that expensive, ($600-ish? eek!), I'd seriously consider having a pro do it. The results I got with a bike a guy shot for $800-, including fiberglass and metal tank repairs, plus hand pin-striping, are in no way comparable to what I might have achieved with spray cans.
 If you're willing to go in that deep, go all the way and get a much, much better result.
Me, I'm a cheap sob with the FJ, because she's a year-round rider, and I'm happy with a ten-footer.

[pdxfj]

From my experience getting a match for the factory paint at a good paint supplier is not that difficult.  They have a device to read the color directly off a piece of the faring you bring in.  They take 3-4 readings from different places and the computer comes up with the formula.  It's usually a "blending" match thus designed to be blended onto an adjacent panel, but in reality it's so close of a match you won't likely tell the difference.  IIRC Pat has experience using such a method and couldn't tell the difference between factory or "matched" color.  George posted the exact type of formula they come up with.

When I last bought paint for my '87 chin faring the total cost was about $120 for the red and white in 1/4 pint (4oz) amounts.  This may not seem like much but will grow quite a bit when thinned and reduced.  A good painter could paint the bike several times with that amount of paint.

Painting is the easy part.. prep is what takes all the labor.  Considering the cost of the color-rite paint in rattle cans I would find an independent/small body shop and see how much they would charge to paint everything.  Pete is right on the money with what he did.  Although I'm a bit of an advantage since such a shop exists about 45 minutes north of me and the sole owner/employee happens to be a very good friend. 

[airheadPete]

I am curious though...
While it seems it would be relatively easy to match "white" and "red", (sorry), has anyone tried to match the later bikes?
Mine is a '92 with a pearl silver and violet something-or-other. I bought some small touch-up bottles from Color-Rite, (about 3/4 oz.), for a not-to-exorbitant price, but I thought they were a poor match. The silver in particular.
I just bought another second-hand main fairing off Flea-Bay. ($135.00; WHOO-HOO!!!)
This one has no chunks knocked out of it, unlike mine, which I carefully patched, but I could still use some touch-up paint, for the few inevitable scrapes.

(Note: If you buy these small touch-up bottles, which are but a step above paint-pens, transfer them into glass bottles. I didn't, and found out much to my chagrin, (OK, I cussed up a storm), that the plastic bottles they deliver them in allow the thinners to transpire. I.E.- the volatiles flash off through the f******g walls of the bottle. All you're left with is putty in the paint color of your bike! Damn. I was not happy.)
You have been warned .

[ribbert]

From my experience getting a match for the factory paint at a good paint supplier is not that difficult. 

Ha, easy for you guys with your solid colours to say.

I agree with Garth, unless you have painted before, home paint jobs often fall short of expectations (hey, how hard can it be, I've seen it on telly).
Paint is expensive and a bit of know how is vital for the preparation, if not the painting itself and then the finishing. 

I know we all like the idea of doing everything ourselves but getting a good looking job is harder than it looks and I reckon getting someone to spray it has a lot going for it. You would likely waste half of what they would charge on excessive amounts of colour matched rattle cans anyway, and still have a shit job.

Noel

Noel