want to mod, want to keep stock

[fjfool]

i have some really fast bikes that handle very well and stop VERY well
i have some issues with the old FJ, i really hate the front brakes- they are much like the brakes on my old RZ, feels like a wooden rotor with wooden pads; no power no feedback
i have already started withe collecting parts for the 17" swap
problem is, i think i am in love with the bike in its stock clothing-as i said before i have some nimble bikes- this is my 2up bike, not gonna be draggin knee
also the stock wheels and rotors are mint, i hate to see them go
i guess i am saying that i dont want to make my FJ into another frankinbike
what are my options for better braking
stainless lines, what pads?
now the big one, the anti dive has to go
is there a pre-engineered kit to remove the system and comes with some block off plates

at this point i think i will pursue the removing the anti-dive, and installing Randy's fork valves
stainless lines
new pads as per member recommendation

Randy's rear shock goes on the wish list

any feedback would surely be appreciated!

[aviationfred]

Here is what your front end could look like with the 17" wheel swap.

1988 FZR750R 17"x3.5" wheel
2003 R1 calipers
New Arashi wave rotors
RPM Fork Brace
Goodridge stainless brake lines



As far as a Frankenbike, The front wheel is Yamaha and is the exact same design as the OEM 89'-90' 17" front wheel, just 1/2" wider. If you don't like the look of the blue dot calipers, there are gold dot and silver dot versions available. They just are not as plentiful on the used market.

With the RPM fork valves and racetech springs, the set up pictured is the hot ticket. Everything is a direct bolt on/drop in. This takes a 20 something year old bike and gives it 21st Century brakes and handling.

USD forks are another option, but that will take some machining.

Fred

[~JM~]

Do you really need 17" wheels?

My almost 100% stock FJ handles the turns very well with the OEM wheels. You definitely want to upgrade the front brakes so that they work at least as well as the rear brake. New braided stainless brake lines from Galfer, Spiegler, etc, should be one of the first things on your list. Then new brake calipers & pads. If that doesn't satisfy you, then look into another front master cylinder.

This will be this winters project if all goes well. New front brakes & new Avon RoadRider tires on the original wheels. I doubt that I can out ride that combination on the street & I ride pretty hard.

[FJmonkey]

For the lest amount of cost you can remove the upper portion of the AD unit on your forks and flip them upside down. This will remove the brake lines that go to them and not require the block-off plates. Then replace your 27 year old rubber lines with the braided lines, get them in black to stay stock looking. If your rotors are in good shape then replace the pads with HH rated pads. Not sure how long your rotors will last but you can get new ones that work well with the HH pads. The fork upgrade with the RPM valves is awesome, I love the improved handling of modern fork valves. The RPM valves will work on all FJ years so if you decide to use the 89+ forks like I did then the parts will swap over. So getting the RPM valves now will simply give you a much better front end now and will stay with you if you upgrade in the future. I will be installing the RPM rear shock soon, it is nagging at me every time I pass by it as it sits in my garage. I expect a similar improvement on the rear as I felt on the front when I get it done. It uses the same valve technology and was designed specifically for the FJ by Randy. So this will be another really good upgrade while keeping the stock look. Sounds like you have already have Moditus, welcome to the best place for you and your FJ. 

[FJscott]

Do you really need 17" wheels?

For me, the biggest reason to go with a 17" wheel was twofold

1- tire selection/availability
2- a wider wheel to accommodate a wider tire

Scott

[~JM~]

Do you really need 17" wheels?

For me, the biggest reason to go with a 17" wheel was twofold

1- tire selection/availability
2- a wider wheel to accommodate a wider tire

Scott

How much wider are the wheels & how did they effect the cornering? I like to use the most narrow wheel & tire combo that will provide enough traction to prevent breaking lose. I really like the way my stock FJ1200 naturally initiates a turn with just the slightest weight shifting.

[FJmonkey]

How much wider are the wheels & how did they effect the cornering? I like to use the most narrow wheel & tire combo that will provide enough traction to prevent breaking lose. I really like the way my stock FJ1200 naturally initiates a turn with just the slightest weight shifting.

Having already made the transition from the stock 16" front and rear to the more modern 17",  I can offer some information. The lightness of turn-in and the bike's ability to hold a line while leaned and cornering has not changed. When tire size and all the other factors are properly set (air pressure, suspension, tire warm up) the tire/wheel size between the two are not really different. Technically the wider radial tires will provide a larger contact patch and provide more traction during cornering. I have ridden with FJ riders on stock wheels/tires while I had newer 17" radial tires, I can say the stock set up does not slow them down. The only reason to upgrade to 17" is tire selection and the look of a fatter rear tire. Avon still makes a radial in 16" and having rode on them for many sets, I can say it is a good tire. So if you are not riding off the edges of your 16" wheels then you don't need to upgrade to 17". If you chose to upgrade then be prepared for the wealth of choices of brands and compounds on the market.

[aviationfred]

With the 17" rear wheel mod and the use of a 180/55/17 tire, I agree with FJmonkey about the added traction. I have found that the occasional over exuberance of throttle, the 180 provides much better traction than the OEM 150.

I would spin the 150 in a moments notice, the 180 grips and goes with the front end getting real light.

And what everyone says..... Tire Selection, tire selection, tire selection.

Fred

[~JM~]

I'm going to be the "stick in the mud" on this one & stay with my OEM wheels. As long as I can find an Avon RoadRider that will fit, I'll be happy.

Now the front brakes... That is a whole 'nother topic. Something must be done up front. I've already purchased the calipers & a newer master (complete with pee cup) for the front. Just need to have some custom brake lines fabbed up & some new pads.

[FJscott]

I'm going to be the "stick in the mud" on this one & stay with my OEM wheels. As long as I can find an Avon RoadRider that will fit, I'll be happy.

Now the front brakes... That is a whole 'nother topic. Something must be done up front. I've already purchased the calipers & a newer master (complete with pee cup) for the front. Just need to have some custom brake lines fabbed up & some new pads.

Not a stick in the Mud, I think you have your prioritys right.
Scott

[Pat Conlon]

Hey JM, no worries if you want to stay with the oem rear, and good plan on the front brake upgrade...it will be plug and play with your '89...

However, if you haven't already done so, consider some fork springs to go along with those bitchen' front brakes...

You can always revisit the rear when you find tire mfgrs stop making the V rated 150/80-16 tire size....IMHO just a matter of time.

[FJmonkey]

Twisting the wrist and going faster is a lot of fun..... Till you realize that you might need to stop really fast. Better breaking and break-feel are always a good upgrade.

[~JM~]

Oh, I wouldn't mind going the full trick route, but I have a couple of other bikes that need attention also.

I would like to address the suspension after the front brakes & tires.

[Pat Conlon]

JM,  your '89 came from the factory with soft .644kg/mm fork springs.
Japanese spring steel in the '80's was not exactly known for being durable...so, your current spring rate is less than the day it left the factory.

Why not spend $140 for some .85 straight rate springs now? They are easy to install... That way you will be ready down the road for the RPM valves.

I worry about your brake upgrade and those sacked out oem springs. Just a suggestion....

[~JM~]

Well, it is definitely an option. Just have to see how the $$$'s & timing work out at the time.

Thanks.