Strange Chain

[David Allaband]

Drive chain trouble. When i adjust it most of the chain is around .7 inches. There are a couple spots with 1.4 inch slack and a couple where the chain is so tight there is no slack! It clicks (or creaks) when those tight spots go around.

Thoughts? My only guess is that the chain is old and needs replacing, but I would rather stop thinking that.

Do I need to remove the swingarm to replace a chain on this bike....

[Bill_Rockoff]

Sweet, you still have your bike!  I thought you had fallen on hard times and had to part with it.

You could rotate the assembly and see if the tight spots correspond to countershaft sprocket position, rear wheel position, or chain position.  But the best answer is the same regardless, replace the chain and both sprockets as a set.  Because otherwise the used parts you keep will kill the new parts you buy in very short order. 


If you're lucky, it's just the chain stuck / frozen in place, and working a little chain lube in between the plates and then working it back and forth with pliers will free it up some.  But once it's gotten like that, it's on the way out. 

Yeah, replacing both sprockets and the chain ain't cheap.  But the good stuff (name-brand o-ring chain and two sprockets) will run smooth and last over 20,000 miles with minimal need to adjust.  I think I adjust mine every time I get tires, every 4,000-7,000 miles.  I spray chain wax on it whenever I get home from an FJ rally, so that's every 2,000 to 4,000 miles.  It's been so long since I replaced a chain that I hardly begrudge the $200 or so it costs to replace them all at once. 

For removing your existing chain, if it's the original then it's an "endless" chain, but if it has ever been replaced there is probably a master link in there somewhere.  Clip-type masters are easy to remove, a riveted one is a bit harder and you remove it the same way you remove an endless chain - by grinding two pins and pressing them out to break the existing chain.  With a riveted master link, it's easier to find the master and drill or grind those pins, but otherwise you can grind the heads off any two pins and push them out with a punch or with a C-clamp and a small ball bearing / BB.  I have also used vice grips and a BB.

You will want to do this after loosening the countershaft sprocket (it's like a 34 or 36mm socket!  I have had luck with a big adjustable open-end, too) because having the chain still attached lets you use the rear wheel braced against the swingarm to keep the countershaft from rotating when you try to loosen the sprocket nut.

I forget whether or not the wheel sprocket nuts need to be heated with a propane torch to loosen the Lock-tite.  Couldn't hurt.

Good luck.

[yosemite]

agree with bill's comments the tight spots are almost certainly caused by the links being partially seized you may be lucky and free it off by using copious amounts of lube and moving the tight spots either by rotating the wheel or by slackening the chain to allow twisting the tight links using mole grips or pliers. BUT the risk is that the chain could fail, if it is near the end of its life, causing damage to your bike, you or your surroundingif it lets go at speed.
By the way the nut on the gearbox sprocket is 36 mm.

[andyb]

Replace the chain with something that isn't made from cheese.

The rear sprocket will come off without a torch.  If you need to remove a stud from the carrier, then you will need to apply the heat, but not otherwise.

[charleygofast]

Replace! I'm sure its stretched (they don't stretch evenly) or maybe links seized,  its junk...if its endless you can cut it with a grinder. Check sprockets for wear dishing or" not round' teeth on them they should probably be replaced anyway . Worn sprockets will wear out a new chain pretty quick.  And dont get a cheap chain, buy one thats rated for a 1000cc and up motorcycle.                                                                                                                                                                                 Charley.