Carb Sync vacuum line Setup?

[JoBrCo]

The sync gauge may not register until the choke is shut off completely.

I did notice that the cable seems sort of taught, but be sure that I can't turn it off anymore.  Wait, I did notice that the choke plungers, the part that the forks pull out, has flat spots (they looked like worn spots) on them, I'll ensure they ride perfectly on the forks so as to completely disengage another MM or so.  I thought they were just worn, needing replacement soon.  They really should have included an adjustment for the choke cable.

....and you can easily overheat your engine if you let it idle too long.

What's too long?  My bike has never been this sensitive before, I can only run it a few minutes before it gets too hot.  Is it normal that it burns oil after getting too hot, as that's what it's seemingly doing.  I was thinking that while the rings were not seized with respect to the cylinder walls, maybe they are relative to the pistons, thus creating more friction, so she heats up faster.

It's better than at first, but it's still heating up fast, then blue smoke out of the exhaust (burning oil).

Maybe it is just too rich (black smoke) caused by the choke not fully disengaging.

I'm going to adjust those choke plungers, and disconnect the cable if I have to, to ensure they are disengaged, because I really need those dampers in the gauge to smooth out the indicators erratic movements.

I pulled the plugs and they are black, not wet, it could be the choke, too rich.

Too rich usually cools her down though, correct?  It's too lean that makes her hotter; Counter intuitive!

Thanks again guys!  More food for thought. I'm gonna owe you guys big time!


FJ Forever!  

JoBrCo

[Arnie]

Yeah, like many (most??) of us, you're probably in bad shape :-)
However, removing the 2 17mm headed bolts that hold the seat subframe to the mainframe and pushing the rear of the seat down will give you enough more room that will greatly ease the need for muscle in getting the carbs back in place.
You will need to plug those vacuum lines that are not going to your manometer (sync device) before your carb sync can be done accurately.  A golf tee should work fine.

I suspect that many dealer shop mechanics don't remove carbs at all, they just charge you for it.

[JoBrCo]

Well I checked and the choke has indeed been fully off, so that's not the problem, so still the vacuum barely registers on the gauge, I have to rev it to get a reading, but it's running better. I noticed that the more uneven the carbs are she pops and sputters (backfires).   

I just wish I had some major CFM fans, then I could work longer.  Maybe I should ring Hollywood, and ask to borrow one of those hurricane fans used on sound stages, though I doubt I could pay the electric bill.  (I got to keep the comedy going because she's killin' me here)

What do you guys think it indicates when the engine sometimes runs away, revs higher by itself, once it gets hot.

The smoking is still present, but it seems to only be on one side, I'm thinking it has to do with the oil in the fuel and that it's out of sync/mixture incorrect?

I'm confident she'll eventually come around.  Maybe I just have to learn the procedure, this is my first time synching the FJ1100, in the past I always paid to have it done.  The only time I've ever attempted a multi-carb sync was on a MG Midget, it had twin SU carbs, way back in the 70's.

Again thanks for all your tips, they have really paid off.  I'm learning more about my bike daily, THANKS GUYS!!

FJ Forever! 

JoBrCo 

[JoBrCo]

Yeah, like many (most??) of us, you're probably in bad shape :-)
However, removing the 2 17mm headed bolts that hold the seat subframe to the mainframe and pushing the rear of the seat down will give you enough more room that will greatly ease the need for muscle in getting the carbs back in place.
You will need to plug those vacuum lines that are not going to your manometer (sync device) before your carb sync can be done accurately.  A golf tee should work fine.

I suspect that many dealer shop mechanics don't remove carbs at all, they just charge you for it.

Yes I did the subframe trick today, it really made it easy to first put the carb rack in then the airbox.

The vacuum lines going to the igniter? The one that goes to the tank has actually been removed.  I have to replace it, it got brittle and cracked at one end.

Yeah the last place I took my bike to, they actually screwed it up, never again at that place.

FJ Forever! 

JoBrCo

[Arnie]

ANY vacuum leak, on any of the cylinders' carbs will screw up your vacuum reading that is used for the sync.
If any of your vacuum lines has become brittle or cracked you MUST block off that port on the manifold BEFORE trying to sync the carbs.  Otherwise you're just wasting your time.

[JoBrCo]

ANY vacuum leak, on any of the cylinders' carbs will screw up your vacuum reading that is used for the sync.
If any of your vacuum lines has become brittle or cracked you MUST block off that port on the manifold BEFORE trying to sync the carbs.  Otherwise you're just wasting your time.

Thanks Arnie!  I thought you meant the vacuum circuits that I'm eliminating during the sync and couldn't understand why.  But I got you, no worries mate, the only vacuum leaks that could be present are the ones I can't account for, and spraying certain fluids in their proximity would make them known.  At this point I don't think I have any.  The manometer I'm using has neither mercury nor it's alcohol based liquid substitute, rather it has small solid metal indicators, that I think are too heavy for the amount of vacuum present, because all cylinders are affected about the same.  I seriously doubt that I have the same amount of leakage on all carbs.  I don't know what those odds would be, I'm not a gambler, but I know they would be slim.

FJ Forever!   

JoBrCo