Good Morning from SoCal!

[movenon]

Never mind - made my own version yesterday... not as pretty but very function - but thanks for the idea! 

  It comes in handy.  I lowered the cross member to accommodate a bike with an aftermarket exhaust, they hang lower.  Also added some "wings" on the sides so the bike can't slide left or right off the 2 X 4.  It has never happened to me but a good safety precaution anyhow.  I copied the design from another member. 
George

[Burns]

I don't know if you have freshened up your front end yet, but I'm finishing up on that project and here's a couple of things that I think you will find useful. I depart from the conventional wisdom in a few spots and invite dissenting opinion. 

NEEDED PARTS
    Springs (they are almost certainly sacked out and were too soft even when new)
           go to the Race Tech spring rate calculator
           http://racetech.com/ProductSearch/2/Yamaha/FJ1200/1986-89)
        to determine the correct spring rate for your weight
    Bushings
         there are two (an inner and outer) in each leg
          a little pricey but "fresh" is better than " fresher than they were"
    Oil Seals
    Dust shields
    Oil

OPTIONAL PARTS
    Damper rod piston seal - a little plastic ring that fits in a groove in the top of the damper rod -
        replace if excessively worn or broken (if you need any let me know I have usable old ones)
    cartridge Emulator
          this is an up-grade more than a "freshen up" item

SPECIAL TOOLS
   Groove Locator
      Wrap several layers of tape (blue masking tape works great) an inch or so from the bottom of the long
      "d"  rod used to adjust damping. This makes a temporary tool you will use in re-assembly.

    Bushing/Seal Driver (my version; there are several)
        Cut one side the length of a 24" section of 1.5 " I.D. PVC. ; put a cap on it for a striking surface
        The cut PVC pipe will spread to snuggly fit over the fork tube and can drive the seals and outer bushings


Notes
I.  Neither the handlebars nor the fairing needs to be removed; just loosen but don't remove the 12mm clamp bolts on the trees and the allens in the handlebar camps (a socket wrench type allen wrench works best) and with a twist/pull motion the tubes will slide out/in .

II. There is notch in the bottom of the damper that fits over a locating screw in the slider.  There is no reason to take that screw out (unless you bend or break it of course). 

II. a.  The allen bolt in the slider (it screws into the bottom of the damper rod) is lock-tighted at the factory.  The conventional wisdom is to fashion a tool to hold the damping rod so that you can remove this bolt without bending the locating screw.

Here's an alternative.
With the tube secured, set the pre-load to max and with a breaker bar and allen socket the allen bolt will come right out without damaging the locating screw.  When you re-assemble be sure not to torque that bolt until the damping rod is under spring pressure

Two ways to secure the tube - NEVER PUT A FORK TUBE IN A VICE
1.   With the tubes in the tightened down triple-tree clamps on the bike.
2.   With the tubes in a tightened down triple-tree in a vice

I bought an extra triple tree top (which I plan to modify to use rubber mounted perches for standard handlebars - but that's another story).  They are cheap (under $20 on Ebay).  They make an excellent tool for holding fork tubes you are working on.

II. b.  Setting the damper rod notch onto the slider locating screw
As you put the tube assembly (tube, damper rod, top-out spring, bottom collar) onto the slider, visually align the locating groove in the damper with the locating screw in the leg - then slide the fork tube all the way into the slider.
To assure that you are groovy put the taped d-rod tool you made into the d-hole in the damper top and gently twist the rod (not the cap – it will rotate - twist the rod itself).   If you can only move it a tad clockwise/counter-clockwise before meeting résistance you're in the groove.

Now Screw the allen bolt in finger tight to keep everything in place.

After you mount your bushings /washers/shields put the spring/spacer, cap on and set preload to max.
Take the allen bolt out. Clean it, put some lock-tite on it, put it in with its washer and torque it to spec.

not the whole drill, like I said, just some hi-lights and alternatives.

BTW, I used to live out in Manson country (Inyo-Kern) at China Lake; 110 in the shade and there ain't no shade.
Beautiful sky.  I miss the stars

[novaraptor]

And about that 6th gear.. Everyone wants one at first, but in reality, the engine is never working anywhere near it's top limits during normal cruising. It's just that it seems like it after riding other bikes, but when you look at the amount of tach left, you aren't even close. Welcome aboard..